loyale low idle and A/C not working

[dschrader]

Hi I am new here and new to my loyale.

 

It's been a trial and error effort getting it running properly.

 

It's a 3 speed automatic with selectable 4wd and its idle is funny like a cracked vacuum line or something it'll idle normally some days others it'll be high by 3 or 4 hundred rpms or low by the same And I'm outta ideas on it.

 

And after I finally found a belt and tensioner pulley that fit the compressor pump clutch won't engauge. I tested the wire and it wouldn't show a charge. I checked the pressure switch plug and the fuse and added Freon with no results if someone could help on that I'd be grateful come summer.

 

Also whats the difference between "vin 4" and "vin 5"?

[ihscout54]

 

It's a 3 speed automatic with selectable 4wd and its idle is funny like a cracked vacuum line or something it'll idle normally some days others it'll be high by 3 or 4 hundred rpms or low by the same And I'm outta ideas on it. 

Im guessing your car is SPFI. Make sure youre throttle is returning fully (frayed cable worn return spring etc) Your idle issues are reminiscent of a flaky tps idle switch, or adjustment. Sounds like youve checked for vac leaks have you checked the intake manifold gaskets and tbi base gaskets with some carb cleaner? You can isolate things like the brake booster and pcv by pinching their hoses politely with some needle nose pliers.

The intake boot must be tight and leak free as well. Even small leaks will throw off the MAF.

IAC would be next on the list

 

 

And after I finally found a belt and tensioner pulley that fit the compressor pump clutch won't engauge. I tested the wire and it wouldn't show a charge. I checked the pressure switch plug and the fuse and added Freon with no results if someone could help on that I'd be grateful come summer. 

Not clear as to weather or not you tried this, but an easy test for your compressor clutch/cycling switch: jump the switch. But dont do it for long as your possibly low on charge. Im not sure how you added charge. 

If your not getting voltage at the switch and the fuse is good then the wiring switch or relay will need checked. Sorry Im not familiar with the loyals A/C setup and cant offer any specifics.

[MR_Loyale]

If the AC doesn't have a charge that means there is a leak, an O-Ring or hose perhaps. That leak needs to be fixed and the the system evacuated an shown to be able to hold a vacuum. Harbor Freight sells a manifold kit for this very purpose though it isn't cheap. Once the system holds vacuum and is evacuated (with a vacuum pump ) then you can add the refrigerant.

 

Of course unless you have access to those two tools, you are simply guessing. If you decide to persue this, then you will need a conversion kit to allow your old system to use the new refrigerant as the old freon is an environmental no no and prohibitively expensive anyway (prob about $700 just to fill in today's money. In 2006 i cost me $600 just for that old freon).

 

It sounds as though you have more fundamental issues though as the compressor clutch will not engage. I understand that being in AZ this is important to you. Just telling upfront the costs to be able to thoroughly troubleshoot the system properly. I am sure taking it to a shop would prob run in the many hundreds of $$$ too, but doing it yourself you would have the tools if it broke down again.

 

On mine I had it "fixed" by an "AC shop" in 2006 as I was visiting Eastern Wa in the summer. The place got it working, filled with the original nasty freon at $600 just for the freon. Well when I got home to Western Wa about a month later it all leaked out. I know this because there was a fluorescent dye that marked where it had leaked. In 2013 I fixed the AC determining the leak at the firewall had an O-ring that was not for refrigerant systems and too small as well. For $2.50 I got an assorted pack of proper O-Rings replaced it, vacuum tested it and refilled with the new stuff.  There are good videos out there on AC system repair by Scotty Kilmer and Eric The Car Guy. Also you should have either an FSM or Haynes to get you started.

 

Good luck.

Edited March 28, 2015 by MR_Loyale

[DaveT]

Also the Coolant temperature sensor can make the idle jump around and be random.

 

Factory service manual is best by far.

 

The A/C compressor should run wether the system is charged or not, there is no lockout for that condition. You cannot fully charge the A/C unless the compressor is running.

[dschrader]

Thanks for the replies. Went out tracing wires and found where the fuse was supposed to be and the compressor starts now as for the idle issue I'm gonna just take the manifold off and replace all the gaskets assuming my local auto parts store carries them

[Subasaurus]

 

Thanks for the replies. Went out tracing wires and found where the fuse was supposed to be and the compressor starts now as for the idle issue I'm gonna just take the manifold off and replace all the gaskets assuming my local auto parts store carries them

R12 to R134a valve conversion is what your looking for at the autoparts store if it has not been converted yet, its about $12 at autozone 2years ago when i got mine. R12 is a bigger molecule (less leaks) and cools the vehicle better than R134a, you can still get it in Mexico just fine, infact, most of the world still uses R12, were just trying to set the example to the rest of the world that its bad for the ozone. but in the USA you need a special license, they stopped using them in cars in the mid to late 90's. Edited April 1, 2015 by Subasaurus

[dschrader]

Ok so I replaced the intake manifold gaskets and all of the throttle body gaskets, it'll idle smooth however upon acceleration while cold from a dead stop there's hesitation and now it's overheating after about 20 min driving at about 55mph. Any ideas?