Snerp Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 What's the coil look like? The Subaru ones have only 2 screw pins. Positive power with ignition on & negative which provides tacho signal & signal to ECU. Don't forget to connect this negative coil wire to the ECU signal. It will not run without it. I had a project crank but not start through 6 months of troubleshooting because I didn't have it connected OUCH I just ran outside and took a few pics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 That coil is for a Hotwire setup. Take off the transistor from the bottom and wire it direct to the disty. Or get a coil from a carbed car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 That coil is for a Hotwire setup. Take off the transistor from the bottom and wire it direct to the disty. Or get a coil from a carbed car. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 the coil itself is different as well. It may run with the three plug ecu/flapper set up but may not be best matched for the knock circuit stuff when it comes to drive beyond mock up jut to run it and hear it go 117 numbers appear on correct coil I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 (edited) the coil itself is different as well. It may run with the three plug ecu/flapper set up but may not be best matched for the knock circuit stuff when it comes to drive beyond mock up jut to run it and hear it go 117 numbers appear on correct coil I think Hmmmmm both coils are the same and have 116 on them. One looks more beat up than the other Here's pics of the other coil: I just ordered a cone air filter setup and want that on before I start it up anyways. I'm really glad I had to take apart the MAF because it had saw dust past the filter! Not just a little either. I'm going to get her cleaned up tonight. :EDIT: Got the MAF all cleaned up. Should I buy the 85-86 coil? It looks like there are a few choices. These are the two I am looking at. Says W/HITACHI COIL in the notes. Specs: Coil Can Diameter: 2.18 Coil Can Height: 4.38 Coil Can Overall Height: 5.73 Coil Wire Attachment Type: 1 x male spark plug cable and boot Color/Finish: Black Plastic, Black Steel Configuration: Conventional Hardware Included: Yes OE Replacement: Yes Primary Resistance Range: .9 - 1.6 Secondary Resistance Range: 8.5k - 14.0k Terminal Type: 2 x 10-32 stud and nut exposed Voltage: 12 v http://www.amazon.com/Wells-C899-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000BYB98C/ref=sr_1_22?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1430271145&vehicle=1986-13-60-67--1-1-8-3175-114-6-4-448--2-0&sr=1-22&ymm=1986%3Asubaru%3Agl-10 This one says specifically for TURBO. Specs: Coil Can Diameter: 2.13 Coil Can Height: 4.7 Coil Can Overall Height: 6 Coil Wire Attachment Type: 1 x male spark plug cable and boot Color/Finish: Black Plastic, Black Steel Configuration: Conventional Hardware Included: Yes OE Replacement: Yes Primary Resistance Range: .7 - 1.4 Secondary Resistance Range: 6.0k - 11.0k Terminal Type: 2 x M5 x .8 stud and nut exposed Voltage: 12 v http://www.amazon.com/Wells-C877-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001KSIBCA/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1430271126&vehicle=1986-13-60-67--1-1-8-3175-114-6-4-448--2-0&sr=1-8&ymm=1986%3Asubaru%3Agl-10 Which is the correct choice? Edited April 29, 2015 by Snerp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 I suppose I should reference my service manual for the proper coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 the big clue for the first person to tell you the coil was off th hot wire not the flapper style afm models was the electronic bit on the coil bracket - some sort of switching resistor do dad. The 85,86 flapper did not have anything but a coil in the coil bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Yeah, seemed off just by looking at the wiring diagram. Turns out my electronics background came in handy. I wonder if the incorrect coil made the car run badly and that's why the previous owner was able to pick up the GL-10 so cheap. I've got the coil on order. I just went with the one labeled for turbo. The only thing the service manual had as far as a part number was E12-99 and I couldn't find a matching number. It should be OK though. Multiple sites list it as a correct match. I should be able to get it wired in and make a run at starting her up on Thursday...As long as I can convince the wife to let me work on the car on a day we both have off. Thanks again for the help everyone. It is much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Every day I have had off it rains. It's pretty lame to have all these parts just sitting around. I've got the air intake sorted out. I found a cast aluminum 180 "U". I'm running it up and over the top of the engine. I'm using a modded specter MAF adapter. I'll attach the MAF to the body. It's a very tight fit, but it's in there and actually looks pretty good. I'm trying to figure out the fuel system. I guess super beetles use a charcoal canister that is no longer available as part of the evap system. I was just going to vent it, but from what I read there should be a way to tie it back into a vacuum line? I'm not 100% on this and would like some more info if anyone can help me out on that one. I found this info on SBO!: http://www.superbeetlesonly.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=747 As always, thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 You've still got the Subaru charcoal canister attached to the engine (front left corner in you pic on the previous page). On the right side of the engine where the fuel lines attach are 3 metal lines. 2 are for the fuel supply & return, the other goes directly to the charcoal canister. This line went to the back of the Subaru for it's fuel system. Hidden inside the passenger rear quarter fender is another "separator" which loops up there to be higher than the fuel filler. It's tall & skinny. It's been a while since I had one apart enough to check which line attaches to what (I think it's the line from the engine to 1 side & then the other to the tank), but you may be able to use that system instead. Subaru has a separate thicker line from the tank to the filler without a separator. But then, the Subaru is newer with a better sealing cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 You've still got the Subaru charcoal canister attached to the engine (front left corner in you pic on the previous page). On the right side of the engine where the fuel lines attach are 3 metal lines. 2 are for the fuel supply & return, the other goes directly to the charcoal canister. This line went to the back of the Subaru for it's fuel system. Hidden inside the passenger rear quarter fender is another "separator" which loops up there to be higher than the fuel filler. It's tall & skinny. It's been a while since I had one apart enough to check which line attaches to what (I think it's the line from the engine to 1 side & then the other to the tank), but you may be able to use that system instead. Subaru has a separate thicker line from the tank to the filler without a separator. But then, the Subaru is newer with a better sealing cap. Thank you for identifying the location. That will make my life easier. Do you think I can dump the vent straight into the canister and be done with it or do I need to do something with it past that? I believe I still have the VW separator as well. Also, the topic of the shielded wire was brought up. The previous owner sliced an diced it. Will using unshielded wire for a test run be acceptable? My main goal still is starting the engine to make sure nothing major is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 never hear of anyone using a shielded wire for their efi conversions - must just be a factory precautionary measure. You should be fine for a test run anyway. Sounds like you should use the VW separator thing and just hook up its own charcoal canister to work with the Sube engine. I think if you trace the distributor vac advance/boost retard line back from dizzy to throttle body, you will find two tube fittings at the crank pulley side of throttle body. The dizzy connection is the one same side as dizzy, the turbo side goes elsewhere. I think then there is a T piece on dizzy vac port on TB that then goes to the vac port on charcoal canister, so it open up in higher vacuum conditions.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snerp Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Well my starter and fuel pump work. We tried starting it up yesterday and it wouldn't fire up. Ran the starter and fuel pump directly off the battery, and had the ecu on it but I couldn't figure out how the ignition should be tied in. I'm pretty sure that's all I needed. Anyways, everything was spinning free and couldn't see any reason other than the wiring it wasn't firing up, so I'm going to continue on with the body work and tackle the final wiring after with the help of a mechanic friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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