jread Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I have a 1993 Subaru Loyale EA82 5sp push button. Its got 190 000 km and a bunk starter so I've been parking downhill and roll starting it. Its my first car and I'm learning but currently I'm stumped. Today while driving coming over a bridge my car was running great and then while exiting started flashing the check oil and check engines lights and just to stopped working. I managed to pull it over tried to start and push start it a bunch and had no luck.I fear that I may have put too much oil in. It was far above the full line but I was told by a friend that it would just burn off, I think maybe he thought it was a little bit over. Now I'm reading about the damage it could cause and think I should have dealt with it earlier. Did I codswallop it up? Personally I think it may be something else since the car running fine for a while with the high oil level and didn't run rough or bad before immediately cutting out which leads me to think electrical? On the side of the road I drained a bunch of oil and got the level in between the marks but couldn't get it going pushing or starting normally. I had it towed home and am now need to figure out the problem. Anyone have any advice? Last thing I'm thinking may have had an influence is the coolant was leaking from the left hand radiator tube and spraying onto the engine. Maybe it got into some electrics? Is it possible for it to leak into a spark plug hole?Recently (in the last month) I've replaced:ClutchRadiatorSpark PlugsPlug Wires Oil/ Filter Fuel Filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Pull the plugs; covered in oil or are the tips dry? Do you have a compression tester? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 My loyale died while driving down the road recently turned out to be in distributor. I'd pull the cap off that and look there. you could also have broke a timing belt maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 I pulled one plug closest to the coolant leak to check if any coolant may have snuck in. Didn't look like it but the plug was dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thornleyjacob Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Check for spark at the plugs and listen for fuel pump pumping when the key goes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Geez man... figure out how much oil the car needs and keep it there. This isn't a guessing game. And don't follow advice from folks who know nothing about cars. It will only burn it off if it has other, bigger issues and the overfill wont be helping in the meantime. People don't walk around guessing how much blood should be in their body, don't guess the oil in your motor. That aside the oil is likely unrelated. Check timing belts, fuel pump and distributor and post back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 you stated the car recently had an oil/filter change. So how many quarts did you put in? And how did you know what filter to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Filter I ordered from local parts store and I put in almost 4 quarts. Apparently the capacity is 4-5 so should have been fine but I'm sure there was oil left in there. Either way ended up quite high I don't think it was the issue just thought it was worth mentioning. @AdventureSubaru I know I know... Should have been patient looked up the specs and checked out what too much oil can do but I was excited and like to learn the hard way!Charging and doing some battery maintenance to see if thats my starting issue. Will check belts and fuel pump when thats done. A fuel issue wouldn't surprise me at all since that's the kind of cut out it had, no warning, no fussing, just died. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 4.5 quarts is the correct amount. After draining my oil, I then recycle the oil into gallon milk jugs. That way, I know how much oil drained out. It is always about 4 quarts. If your oil level is over the high mark, maybe you have water/coolant in your oil from blown headgasket. I have seen this happen. As far as the car just dying ... sounds like a broken timing belt - driver's side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 And just to be sure, you wiped off the dipstick before reading right? After running the car oil can work its way up the dipstick. Just saying, cuz if you only added 4quarts then I don't know why you have a bunch more than that. Unless you didn't drain your old oil before you added the new stuff... I'm still interested to see how the timing belts and disty are looking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 12v at positive and ground of distributor. Next to check timing belts and fuel pump. Thankfully I put the covers back on with just zap straps instead of screws since half of them broke anyways.I drained lots of oil, left it open for a long while tipped it over on the engine stand and drained more from the other side then from each cam cover. Yes I did wipe the dipstick, I'm new but not that new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Something I just considered is I was on a slight downward slope which could account for the super high oil reading. Its now lower on than it was before but not by the entire amount. So there was too much oil but not as much as I originally thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe5 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Yes I did wipe the dipstick, I'm new but not that new! Yea sorry not tryin to be rude, just checking all the bases here. I think your thought about being on a slope can explain the high oil level stuff. I drained lots of oil, left it open for a long while tipped it over on the engine stand and drained more from the other side then from each cam cover. You already got the motor outta the car on a stand? Or was this before when you were doing the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 The oil light could have came on with a broken driver side timing belt because it runs the oil pump. To see if the driver side belt is broke take off the distributor cap and have a friend crank the engine over while you watch the distributor. If the rotor of the distributor doesn't turn then you know it is a timing belt issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) Its the timing belt, at least Guess I should have just done them while the engine was out.Luckily 2 of 3 covers were zap strapped on so it should be easier to work with. Need to go pick up belts and get to it.Do I need to replace tensioners at the same time? Hoping to not spend tons of money. Edited April 18, 2015 by jread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) I had a similar thing happen to me the first time I did timing belts years ago. It wasn't the timing belt, it was the crank pulley. I hadn't tightened it enough and the nut came loose about 300 miles later. Another reason the car will suddenly die is if the screw holding the rotor in place comes out. Edited April 18, 2015 by MR_Loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Its the timing belt, at least Guess I should have just done them while the engine was out. Luckily 2 of 3 covers were zap strapped on so it should be easier to work with. Need to go pick up belts and get to it. Do I need to replace tensioners at the same time? Hoping to not spend tons of money. It all comes in a kit for about $100 (US). You can probably find the belt alone without the tensioner and idler pulleys, but if those quit working, you risk killing the new belt. Belts should be replaced every 60K miles (96560 kilometers). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 The bearings in the idler and tensioners are pretty much worn out by the time you need belts, so replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Local parts store has them for 70 and 50 plus 40 and 45 for belts with an account.Too much money. Trying to order online Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Ordered from Rock Auto ~100 CAD but I've got to wait a few days which is frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Had it running last night was having trouble idling and died on me once. When I was first starting it the car would die if I didn't hold my foot on the gas, then was fine. This morning it won't start at all. Made an attempt at a push start fired up for a second but wouldn't keep running. Did I put the belt on wrong? Could a low battery cause this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Had it running last night was having trouble idling and died on me once. When I was first starting it the car would die if I didn't hold my foot on the gas, then was fine. This morning it won't start at all. Made an attempt at a push start fired up for a second but wouldn't keep running. Did I put the belt on wrong? Could a low battery cause this? Uneducated guess, but I'm guessing you messed up the belt. Battery charge shouldn't matter once running, unless your alternator is bunk. Check to make sure your plug wires are in correct order as well. I've never really messed with timing stuff though, so take this with a grain of salt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Its weird because it ran for 10 minutes and now just won't start so I'm skeptical to attack the belts again. I agree I don't think battery is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Check for spark and what not at the coil to disty line, and then all the plug wires individually. Air, fuel, and spark are what's needed. Sounds like you're getting the first 2, but might as well check if your fuel pump is pumping. Once you're sure you've got those 3, then start looking at timing. Unless you're EFI. Then there may be something up with that, and I'm no help there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 So frustrated.Started today multiple times no problem but was idling super low so now were onto idle issue... I think it actually may be a battery thing as when the car is around 500rpm the charge light comes on. Thing idles at around 400 rough and wants to die but at 1000+ runs smooth. AHHHHHHHHHHH I really hope it starts tomorrow so I can go grab this other battery I've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.