jread Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 (edited) Forgot to mention my dipstick holder bolt broke so the dipstick and holder are just floating in there. Could this cause pressure issues? Edited May 1, 2015 by jread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 I had those symptoms after breaking my anti dieseling valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Its SPFI don't think I'll have one of those. Going to go check it out now see if she starts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 2, 2015 Author Share Posted May 2, 2015 Checked codes got 5 short.... Told me my car was from Canada :| Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 6, 2015 Author Share Posted May 6, 2015 (edited) I don't get it! Today it died then i fucked with stuff and wiggled everything unhooked the battery then re connected it and it started again. SO CONFUSED What could this be... Edited May 6, 2015 by jread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I don't get it! Today it died then i fucked with stuff and wiggled everything unhooked the battery then re connected it and it started again. SO CONFUSED What could this be... I've been having troubles like that lately, if my brat wont start I just go and shake the battery and twist the negative terminal and then it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silas Cruse Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 I don't get it! Today it died then i fucked with stuff and wiggled everything unhooked the battery then re connected it and it started again. SO CONFUSED What could this be... LOOSE connections several check the Fusible links (with 12v test light), inspect the relay plugins ( listen and feel for Click when key is switched on ), inspect for broken Vacuum lines ( the runs only when foot on pedal ) is a symptom on Too much air during idle NOT being metered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 How do I check the fusible links? Everything works right now so I'm not sure how to go about checking... Its still idling low need to sort that out too, could the timing belt be a tooth off and still run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 The Coolant temperature sensor can cause starting and idling problems that come and go, without triggering the CEL. I had a problem years ago - the car would just die at idle / when I took my foot off the gas. A wire in the engine harness had broken. I think it was for the idle air control solenoid. Put a volt meter on the battery. Anything between 11 - 14 v It should run fine. Not nesisarily charging properly, but it should run and idle. Likely would run even lower, but I can't say for sure as I have never tested to find out how low it has to be before there are problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 Weird you talk about the coolant as I think something is up with my cooling. The car never gets much higher than the first mark on the dial meaning the coolant is likely always flowing keeping the engine cooler than it needs to be? Still don't really know how to check much without just replacing things. Will try and pinpoint issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I have run 6 of these GL / loyales. Some the temp gauge. normal is a bit over the first tick, not quite 1/4 of full scale. Some the normal is about 1/2 scale. Best to check with a thermometer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 How would I check with a thermometer? So just over the tick is normal for temp on some?I think the battery Im running is just screwing with spoob. I have a really large battery that doesn't allow me to put the coolant reservoir or the fusible links in the right place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Has been running fine for a few days now. Yesterday the check engine light came on and went off on it's own... Weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Hello, My son did a similar thing to his Loyale. He overfilled it and sucked oil in through the PCV valve. It was bad and created all kinds goofy things. 1. Changed the plugs regardless. 2. Finally got it running and did the hose retrofit with the t's. At this time it was running rough but running. 1. Readjusted the TPS and throttle cable with the instructions found here. 2. Clean the MAF with carb cleaner which has been debated on this site. 3. When you overfilled it check that the oil did not get into the air cleaner cause it did on my kids car. Replace it. Let's go to charging. 1. Disconnect your battery and charge with an external charger. Once charged load test it. 2. Install battery and check your alternator output. It should be between 13.5 to 14.5. This can create all kinds of little issues with your car. Everything is controlled by Electric power and other things need to be checked if you have been running your car with low voltage. Ignition. 1. Pull your distributor cap. If there have been low voltage it creates excessive heat in the cap. Make sure the little button is burnt out. Check to make sure the 4 contact points aren't corroded or eroded from the excess heat. 2. If the above happened then check your coil also. If your car runs better check your timing. Set your timing at 20 degrees before TDC, I have walked down this road too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 I think I'm going to do timing. I also might get a different battery from work but would need to change my plugs to the screw in type vs post terminals as those are the strongest most readily available batteries. Checking the distributor tonight as well as the exhaust since I've got a leak somewhere down there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Fully sheered one of the exhaust bolts off on my first adventure. Really not looking forward to drilling out and fixing it. Never drilled a bolt out before but I've never herd anyone desribe it as fun... Especially when lying under a vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 The exhaust bolts is really an easy repair on an EA82. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Did you do the timing belts right? I've done them and had the passenger side 180 degrees off. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZG1p70E4VXc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Hello, My son did a similar thing to his Loyale. He overfilled it and sucked oil in through the PCV valve. It was bad and created all kinds goofy things. 1. Changed the plugs regardless. 2. Finally got it running and did the hose retrofit with the t's. At this time it was running rough but running. 1. Readjusted the TPS and throttle cable with the instructions found here. 2. Clean the MAF with carb cleaner which has been debated on this site. 3. When you overfilled it check that the oil did not get into the air cleaner cause it did on my kids car. Replace it. Let's go to charging. 1. Disconnect your battery and charge with an external charger. Once charged load test it. 2. Install battery and check your alternator output. It should be between 13.5 to 14.5. This can create all kinds of little issues with your car. Everything is controlled by Electric power and other things need to be checked if you have been running your car with low voltage. Ignition. 1. Pull your distributor cap. If there have been low voltage it creates excessive heat in the cap. Make sure the little button is burnt out. Check to make sure the 4 contact points aren't corroded or eroded from the excess heat. 2. If the above happened then check your coil also. If your car runs better check your timing. Set your timing at 20 degrees before TDC, I have walked down this road too. This is a great reply. Edited May 12, 2015 by sull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 So damn thing died again tonight! I just keep telling myself that once I work out all the issues it will be amazing. It has already been good fun but this issue is getting frustrating.So while driving home I pulled up to a light and it died. thankfully I was in the right lane rolled it back 20 feet and parked it, fiddled with it with no luck for a while, rode my skateboard home for dinner and returned with my girlfriend after to help me fix and or move it. Checked the distributor cap and it was pretty worn lots of corrosion cleaned it up a big and reinstalled because its all I've got at the moment. Will likely replace this soon. Checked spark in one cylinder because it was the easiest one and had a big blue spark and the plug wasn't soiled. Didn't check the rest as I figured if there wasn't another issue it would at least hear some firing from one cylinder. After a while I got the thing to go REALLY ROUGH, just enough to get the thing around the corner to somewhere I could park it overnight. It was running so rough I didn't want to drive it towards home because if it died on the bridge I would have been torched. Checked timing belts marks seem to align with with the dots just right. Could it have intermittent problems one tooth off?Checked fuel, both lines had gas in them going into and out of whatever is going on there. Battery cranks and gives spark so I don't think its dead. Will give charging it a try. There are two chewed up wires that may be but are not likely causing problems. One is on of the two white wires running into a round white plug near with fuel filter, and the other is into the coolant temperature sensor. When the car started I had the fuel cap off, then we put it back on to drive. Could there be a vacuum lock stopping fuel from flowing? I also get a hissing noise when opening the cap which seems unusual. TO DOReplace distributor cap Check spark in other three cylinders Charge battery (in case) I also red about oil getting into the air filter and stuff from overfilling so I'm going to try and clean all the PCV hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Last thing I'm thinking is I'm currently running 1 of two exhaust bolts on the left side as one sheered clean off. Maybe this is messing with the O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 A long time ago my car had a problem like this. Cranked but wouldn't start. When it did start it ran like crap. Turned out to be one of the environmental sensors. I don't remember which one. Sounds like you need to clear your computer codes and then see if you can get any valid codes to work from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 There are low cost electronic thermometers around with small sensors. Thermocouple type are best. Even a small meat thermometer would work. Put the sensor in one of the extra bolt holes in one of the heads. Add a little grease to make better thermal contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 Started again this morning super rough really had to give it juice to move. Hesitates a lot tons of jerking. Does this help narrow down the problem? For the thermometer would I then unplug my existing one and not use it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibreakstuff Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Fuel issue? Clogged fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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