naru Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Remove plug wires one at a time w/idling until you find the one(s) that do not make any difference. Check the plug and wires on those. Try leaving the gas cap loose. It is normal for the tank to hold a SMALL amount of pressure/vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Will leave the gas cap loose next time. Plugs and wires are all brand new ~500km old. Will try anyways. I still have no idea what I'm supposed to do about the thermometer. Might just buy a new unit I remember reading something about buying a slightly cooler rated one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Been reading a lot on the MAF and am now learning that maybe I shouldn't have sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't remove the housing so maybe its ok but I did blast the plug out good with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 The thermometer I'm talking about you use to verify the temperature. Once you know the engine is at normal (I think it's 195f) you look at the stock gauge, and note where normal is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 Ahhh I thought you were talking about installing it on the car somehow. Need to fix the damn thing first haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Did you set timing with the green plugs connected? You set timing with them plugged in, then unplug once set. If things are not working correctly, always start small... Start at the timing belt, and work your way forward. Double check everything. Dont over think it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 When you pulled the motor did the round plugs get pushed together very tightly? I push the snot out of em and ziptie tightly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 When you pulled the motor did the round plugs get pushed together very tightly? I push the snot out of em and ziptie tightly. Yep, been there done that!! Good tip 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Will undo spray down and reconnect everything tonight very tight along with all the other things! Car is not at my house now which makes it harder but shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) Minor success tonight. Started it was real gentle and brought her home around midnight tonight when I would have time and space to deal with it being stuck in an inconvenient place. Got it all the way to my garage and only died when trying to get my fob. Started again after but wanted to die immediately when pulling into my spot. Have a bunch of questions and photos tonight. Sorry for all the questions and thanks to everyone whos been answering them! I don't have anyone teaching me this stuff so learning by doing and reading Whats this connector? Located in the top right near the fuel filter, no idea where its going or coming from. Its a big chewed up, not sure how or why wondering if this is causing problems. (that inline fuse is nothing was wired direct to batter for fog lights but I've removed it) This is my thermostat sensor thing and the wires are torched. Guess I need to just replace the whole unit. Maybe I can just solder the wire and it will be better. o2 sensor wire coming from the harness seems in rough shape. It was taped to itself on the top side. Under the tape the insulation wire is pulled back not sure if you can make it out. Will this stop it from functioning? Terrible photo but tons of junk under the MAF sensor. Am I just supposed to be cleaning these contacts or should I be separating the plastic from the metal body and cleaning under? Whats this plug and why does it look like someone dipped it in milkshake? Tons of corrosion blew a bunch out but still needs a better cleaning. Maybe another cause. Edited May 15, 2015 by jread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 White connector in 1st pic is for the 2 solenoids seen in the bottom pic. They shift the trans from FWD to 4wd by controlling the big vacuum canister mounted below the starter. The connector in the bottom pic is for the wiper motor. The pic of the side of the radiator is showing the thermosensor switch that controls the electric radiator fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 The thermometer sensor (1 wire) for the dash gauge is on the thermostat housing. The coolant temperature sensor (2 wires) is there also. It is separate, and tells the ecu the engine temperature. The one on the radiator is only for the fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Cleaned everything up and put it all back together seemed to fire up great. Also tightened a ground wire down much better and things seem to be going a bit smoother. Also finally convinced Canadian Tire to honor there warranty on a battery without receipt and got a new one paid for! So I tossed that in to eliminate the pain in the rump roast battery that was twice the size it should be. Still need to tackle the low idle issue. Have the exhaust dropped right now and am threading the holes up to 7/16 14 soon and putting in new studs since the old ones mostly stripped out when I pulled the engine. If that doesn't fix the issue I'll have to search for other solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Anyone have any wisdom on that O2 sensor wire? Its pretty pooched and I'm getting a code just wondering if its the wire being worn or if it might be the actual sensor. Would rather not buy a new one if possible. Also getting a code for the purge sensor going to do some research now but im getting 40ohms resistance which seems close to 35 not sure if its close enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 The wire is no big deal, as long as it does not short out to anything. I have used the Bosch sensor from NAPA for these engines without trouble. The 35 to 40 ohms should be ok. There could be a break in a wire, or bad contact in a connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 Guess the o2 Sensor is pooched and likely way rusted into the exhaust since everything else is. So if the ohm are ok whats up with this purge valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 The code for the purge valve is generated by an open in the wiring to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself. There is no way the ECU can tell if anything beyond that is there or functioning. Same is true for the EGR solenoid, code 34. The codes only check that the solenoid coil is there. So if the coil is solidly good, one of the 3 or so connectors, or wires that connect the ECU to the solenoid most likely has an open / bad contact. Theoretically, the ECU could have a failure, but I have yet to see that happen, since 1988.I noticed the pic above, of a white cylindrical connector. The back, where the wires come out, should have a red/ orange silicon rubber seal to keep moisture out. If it is missing, the contacts may be corroded. I am not sure which wires / signals are in that connector, but it's something to look out for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Drove 500km in the last week with no issues. Gas mileage seems bad and I'm sure I'd still get codes if I connected the green plug I'd get the codes again but pretty happy that its working so well. Will tackle these codes and problems. Not ever sure what the source of this problem was but seems to be fine now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) Question have you done a timimg check yet (dont forget the connectors to allow setting timing properly) the reason I say that is more often than not somebody adjusts timing with half worn belts and then you replace the belts and the timimng is out usually too far advanced which can make them Pigroot around and run like a Dog. Edited May 25, 2015 by coxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 I want to check the timing but I can't really understand any instructions I've read and seem to need a specialized tool that I don't have and have no money to buy. I'm pretty sure I'm reading something wrong but you're right it might be timing and I should really check it out again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Dude no special tools needed. Double check the procedure. This may help you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superpoo93 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) If no timing light borrow one or set the timing by feel... Set it where its runs the best, it may take you a couple times to get it right. Edited May 26, 2015 by superpoo93 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombieblues Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I just bought a working timing light at a pawnshop for 15$ I'm sure you can find one close. And if you plan on keeping this car and working on it you may want the tool for the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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