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ok I just purchased a 93 Legacy Wagon automatic all wheel drive its got the option to put it in manual for the traction control.

and today I just discovered that the 4 wheel drive is not working at all

I dunno about the front wheel drive fuse and that is not in place

I have the car up on jack stands I can start the car put it in drive let off the break and only one front tire will spin

and yes the rear drive line is in place

does anyone know of any solutions or easy way to check and see what's going on

the power light on the dashboard does not come on when you start the engine

other than that the car runs drives shifts perfectly the fluid level in the transmission is up to par

both transmission fluid and gear oil

is there a possibly somebody had taken out the transfer gears inside the transmission or something please help thank you for any response I can get

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ok I just purchased a 93 Legacy Wagon automatic all wheel drive its got the option to put it in manual for the traction control.

and today I just discovered that the 4 wheel drive is not working at all

I dunno about the front wheel drive fuse and that is not in place

I have the car up on jack stands I can start the car put it in drive let off the break and only one front tire will spin

and yes the rear drive line is in place

does anyone know of any solutions or easy way to check and see what's going on

the power light on the dashboard does not come on when you start the engine

other than that the car runs drives shifts perfectly the fluid level in the transmission is up to par

both transmission fluid and gear oil

is there a possibly somebody had taken out the transfer gears inside the transmission or something please help thank you for any response I can get

That's how it's supposed to be, until it starts slipping 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153367-awd/

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Manuals are not a 50/50 split: I don't know where you got that information.  They all (manual and automatic) are momentarily 50/50, but only in 1st or 2nd gear.

 

Test it without the engine running (see below: it's a quote.  I didn't feel like typing that much).

               

if you put the MT or AT in neutral and have both front tires off the ground - and you turn one front tire the other front tire on the other side which is physically joined via the differential will turn the opposite direction.

 

First, check the axle on the wheel that's not turning.  Is anything turning on that side? Assuming everything is intact (no broken axles), there's more than just that one possibility:

  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction in exact sync with the turned wheel, as you noted. In this case the differential input shaft remains stationary even though it would be free to turn because the transmissions, in both cases, are not "locked".

     
  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction, but slower. In this case, the differential input shaft
    will also turn. This could happen if there is some drag on the opposite
    wheel, perhaps from a brake pad, or friction in the bearing, or a
    binding CV joint.

     
  • The opposite wheel does not turn. In this case, the input shaft is
    turning. This can happen if the opposite caliper is seized. The other
    wheel might not turn but the input shaft will because it is free to turn
    and its degree of friction is less than that of the brakeicon1.png on the opposite wheel.

     
  • The opposite wheel turns in the same direction. This is unique to
    the viscous coupled "limited slip" differentials. In this case, the
    friction of the coupler's seals causes the differential case
    to turn with the wheel being turned and this causes the opposite wheel
    to rotate in the same direction. However, this can only happen if the differential input shaft
    is free to turn. (This would not apply in the example of the front
    being raised, but I raise only to cover all possibilities, whether the
    differential is at the front or at the rear.)

Emily

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Manuals are not a 50/50 split: I don't know where you got that information.  They all (manual and automatic) are momentarily 50/50, but only in 1st or 2nd gear.

 

Test it without the engine running (see below: it's a quote.  I didn't feel like typing that much).

               

if you put the MT or AT in neutral and have both front tires off the ground - and you turn one front tire the other front tire on the other side which is physically joined via the differential will turn the opposite direction.

 

First, check the axle on the wheel that's not turning.  Is anything turning on that side? Assuming everything is intact (no broken axles), there's more than just that one possibility:

 

 

  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction in exact sync with the turned wheel, as you noted. In this case the differential input shaft remains stationary even though it would be free to turn because the transmissions, in both cases, are not "locked".

     

  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction, but slower. In this case, the differential input shaft

    will also turn. This could happen if there is some drag on the opposite

    wheel, perhaps from a brake pad, or friction in the bearing, or a

    binding CV joint.

     

  • The opposite wheel does not turn. In this case, the input shaft is

    turning. This can happen if the opposite caliper is seized. The other

    wheel might not turn but the input shaft will because it is free to turn

    and its degree of friction is less than that of the brake[/size]icon1.png on the opposite wheel.

     

  • The opposite wheel turns in the same direction. This is unique to

    the viscous coupled "limited slip" differentials. In this case, the

    friction of the coupler's seals causes the differential case

    to turn with the wheel being turned and this causes the opposite wheel

    to rotate in the same direction. However, this can only happen if the differential input shaft

    is free to turn. (This would not apply in the example of the front

    being raised, but I raise only to cover all possibilities, whether the

    differential is at the front or at the rear.)

Emily

when I had all four tires off the ground support it on jack stands

I would start the engine hold my foot on the brake put the car in first gear let off the brake and only one front tire will spin

I can stop the tire from spinning by like sticking my foot on the tire it will stop spinning and the opposite side will spin

that neither back tire will spin

I also tried and driving up a steep grassy hill had a friend watch the back tires as I went up I would spin out and only one front tire spin and it would do this no matter what gear I'm in or if I was in manual mode or not

 

note that this car is automatic 4 speed transmission

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Manuals are not a 50/50 split: I don't know where you got that information.  They all (manual and automatic) are momentarily 50/50, but only in 1st or 2nd gear.

 

Test it without the engine running (see below: it's a quote.  I didn't feel like typing that much).

               

if you put the MT or AT in neutral and have both front tires off the ground - and you turn one front tire the other front tire on the other side which is physically joined via the differential will turn the opposite direction.

 

First, check the axle on the wheel that's not turning.  Is anything turning on that side? Assuming everything is intact (no broken axles), there's more than just that one possibility:

  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction in exact sync with the turned wheel, as you noted. In this case the differential input shaft remains stationary even though it would be free to turn because the transmissions, in both cases, are not "locked".

     

     

  • The opposite wheel turns in the other direction, but slower. In this case, the differential input shaft

    will also turn. This could happen if there is some drag on the opposite

    wheel, perhaps from a brake pad, or friction in the bearing, or a

    binding CV joint.

     

     

  • The opposite wheel does not turn. In this case, the input shaft is

    turning. This can happen if the opposite caliper is seized. The other

    wheel might not turn but the input shaft will because it is free to turn

    and its degree of friction is less than that of the brakeicon1.png on the opposite wheel.

     

     

  • The opposite wheel turns in the same direction. This is unique to

    the viscous coupled "limited slip" differentials. In this case, the

    friction of the coupler's seals causes the differential case

    to turn with the wheel being turned and this causes the opposite wheel

    to rotate in the same direction. However, this can only happen if the differential input shaft

    is free to turn. (This would not apply in the example of the front

    being raised, but I raise only to cover all possibilities, whether the

    differential is at the front or at the rear.)

Emily

Info from here:http://www.cnet.com/news/not-every-subaru-all-wheel-drive-system-is-created-equal/

 

"Found in most of Subaru's vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, the system that we'll call "standard" for simplicity's sake is the most symmetrical of the configurations defaulting to a 50:50 torque split under normal, no-slip driving conditions."

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Comatosellama what does it matter anyways?  This persons car is not a Manual (Standard).  This persons  car, as they noted above, is an automatic.  Your comments weren't relevant whether you were right or wrong.

First one was, then I accidentally did some light hijacking

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Comatosellama what does it matter anyways?  This persons car is not a Manual (Standard).  This persons  car, as they noted above, is an automatic.  Your comments weren't relevant whether you were right or wrong.

Ya thanks just need some info on this issue what else should i look for

I am stumped on this one

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When you spin one rear wheel the other should spin opposite.

Spin one rear wheel and make sure the driveshaft turns when you hold the other wheel still. Do the same again but switch wheels ( spin the one you held before). If that checks out the rear diff still has all of its guts and the axles are probably ok. The problem could be either a worn out transfer clutch pack or broken transfer drum in the trans.

Easy enough to inspect and/or replace with the trans still in the car. Ju st pull the tail housing off. There is an o-ring seal that fits around the fluid port for the transfer duty C solenoid. Make sure the o-ring is there. If it gone you will have no fluid pressure on the clutch pack.

Make sure the drum hasn't sheared off of the input spline and inspect the drum inside for wear and make sure all of the clutch plates are there.

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