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Steering extension length ratio to lift block?


Phizinza
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You just kinda adapt it to the lift.  Cut it, sleeve it, mark it where it fits, weld it.   That would be your best way of going about it.

 

Yes I agree with you.

 

Let me quote a post from other thread, whose info might be Helpful here:

 

 

As I still have the car jacked up in the Air with the tires hanging, to easily Crawling under it and tight the Nuts, I took a photo, using my cellphone's camera, to show you how the '92 Legacy Steering Shaft looks already installed on my Subaru  "BumbleBeast"

 

 

SteeringShaftinstalled.jpg

 

 

it does Not need any modification at all, and due to its longer size, it is Perfect for Lift Kits that lowers the engine's Crossmember between 1" and " ...

 

Also the Forester ones are Longer...

 

The total extension will depend on the tallness of the Crossmember Blocks.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Actually the extension is related to the engine crossmember blocks.

I cannot weeks weld the steering due to road rules, so I need to get a piece machined up to match a 2 inch lift. Hoping to get the measurement before taking the car off the road.

Edited by Phizinza
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... I cannot weeks the steering due to road rules, so I need to get a piece machined up to match a 2 inch lift.

 

Well, you forgot to specify which model of Subaru are we talking about, but If yours is an EA82, Why not use the one from a Legacy or a Forester, instead of Machining / Modifying the existing one? 

 

Kind regards.

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Yes, I did forgot to.

 

It's an EA81 Brumby. Has manual steering at this point in time but with the lift I will be putting power steering in it which completely changes the unis to another version. I have two Liberty/Legacy gen 1 and 2 unis which are 26mm longer than the EA81 P/S uni, I have a GC WRX uni, identical to the Liberty ones. And I have a Gen 3 (BH) Outback uni which is 70mm longer than the P/S uni. So I have nothing that is correct and will bolt in.

 

I took a guess at what the standard angle is on the steering shaft between the rack and the column at 45 degrees. I marked it out on paper and too measurements for a 50mm and 100mm lift variations (I will be only going 50mm as you cannot legally lift any higher without getting a engineers cert ($$$$)). At the 45 degrees guess a 50mm lift would require 43mm extension and a 100mm would require 90mm extension. I guess these are ball park figures I can try and work with. I will also have to see if I can source a Forester uni to measure.

 

Thanks

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Have a look at Elfreddos steering knuckle post on Ausubaru http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25276

 

In the first picture the last knuckle is from the MY wagon or early brumby. I used the two long pieces of that style of knuckle to make an extended knucle for my brumby with 2 inch a lift kit.

 

Venoms post shows another way of doing it as well with no welding.

 

As they are bolt together solutions they should be legal.

 

TOONGA

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But the factory one is welded...

 

So if you took one, did a nice job of welding it, and painted it, how the heck would they know it's not a factory part? Just wrap the joint in a wet rag before welding the shaft so you don't cook the U-joints bearings.

 

I used a 1998 Outback one on my 3" crossmember blocked EA82 with powersteering. It was a little long, so the column shaft stuck further down but it didn't hit the joint's cross so I never bothered to shorten the column's splined end. That would be another option for you if a stock one is close but too long, you could nip off the end of the steering column splined shaft to clear with a cutoff wheel.

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Pythagoreum theorum. "a" squared + "b" squared = "c" squared

 

Where:

a = distance horizontally from rack end to steering column.

b = Height from rack end to steering column end.

c = length of coupler.

 

Add the lift block height to "b" and solve for c.

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