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96 legacy wagon, 2.2, Automatic.

 

Ok so im in middle of head gasket replacement.

 

Engine is out and on stand,  heads have been removed and sent to machine shop,

 

1. Oil pan gasket.   I got a felpro gasket from RA.  Everyone says to use the RTV.  I have grey RTV, non anaerobic.

 Should I use the RTV really?   no biggie,, just feel dumb for buying the cork gasket from felpro.

 

         a.   There is a return or pick up tube inside the oil pan someone told me to replace the grommet/o ring inside but haven't seen it for sale ,, is this a Subaru only part? 

 

         

2.  Block Preparation

           I shop vac'd the engine off and used a razor blade to scrape remnants of the old gasket off,  I also took a scotch pad with some carb cleaner  tryin to get them real clean, but they seem stained.  I also used some gasoline wiping down the face of it.

 

          a.   The block has 2 circular  guid/plugs on each side to help the head stay on or something.   Two of the head bolts go though these things.    One came out and stuck on the head.. I pulled it off with some pliers.    I didn't crush it or oblong it.  Not sure about if I should reuse this,,?  Do I need them?   what if it don't want to go back into the block.

 

          b.  am I hurting my motor by having the engine on the engine stand and turning it so my oil pan is sticking out side ways instead of down?

 

          c.  The block surface is for the most part clean,, no debris,, seems smooth.    Anything else I should do?   I also have wiped out the cylinders (the pistons are pretty black on top.)

 

Thanks.

 

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Those are alignment dowels which Subaru calls straight pins. If they are messed up "at all" replace them. They are only a couple dollars each at the dealer.

 

You won't hurt the engine by turning it on itS side or even upside down (which is what I did) to do the oil pan.

 

No gasket on the oil pan. I used ultra grey for the oil pump and oIL pan.

 

Give us pictures of the block. And did you check it for flatness?

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no I haven't checked the block ,, I don't have one of thos e machinist straight edge.    Im also afraid of what I might find..  then have to have the block fixed too somehow.

 

I watched a guy do it on you tube one time,, I would need to get the feeler gauge and a straight edge rule.

 

Other thing,, the grey I have is not anaerobic..    its  this

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Ok the heads have been at the shop for over a week.   Waiting to have them re milled.     

 

I call today and tell them I need my heads back.    The guy proceeds to tell me that one of my valve guids is scored and the valve is hanging up and wont wont seat properly.

 

The car ran fine other than needing the head gasket replaced.

 

I don't know if this is some money grab or what.  

 

Your thoughts please.

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None of that has to be messed with to mill the head surface. Kinda wondering why he was looking at the valves in the first place. Did you ask for a valve job?

 

The guy I take my stuff to will cut a head with the valve cover and everything else still on the head. I took him one that I wasn't sure would machine out and he set it up and cut it just to find out. Took 10 minutes, and most of that was setting up the cutter.

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Same here, but on mine I asked them to check the valves and camshafts and had them install new valve stem seals along with the camshaft seals.

 

There were no problems found. This was on a set of heads I know we're overheated at least 4 times by me and an unknown amount by the previous owner.

 

Go down there and ask to see the damage and take pictures. If they don't want to let you do that then collect the heads and either go somewhere else or ship them to a reputable shop.

 

That being said any good machine shop is going to typically inspect for damage for no additional charge while milling. There is always a possibility of damage and if they will let you take pictures then they are probably correct. But if you get the pictures post them up here for a second opinion.

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Oh, puh-leeeeze!  A fine wire valve guide brush will solve that "hang up" problem in about 15 seconds.  Valve guides are brass, they're easy.  And they had to take the valve out to put valve stem seals on anyway.  If there's a hangup, it's very likely goop on the valve itself, which can be wire brushed off, again in seconds. 

 

(This crap is why we bought our own milling machine: waiting for heads to be surfaced for days is just not acceptable.)

 

Emily

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Yeah, my heads (with the valve stem seals/cam seals) were done in less than a business day.  I dropped them off late Friday (they aren't open weekends) and they were ready for pick up late Monday.

 

Also, my total cost using my supplied valve stem seals and cam seals was $209 ($42/head, $90 in labor, $5 disposal fee, and there was something else on there as well).

Edited by lstevens76
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Thanks for your input folks.    

 

They got the heads Thursday the 4th. 

 

Its Tuesday they still apparently don't have it done.   They didn't call.  I didn't call back after I spoke with them this morning and they told me about the guide.   He said all tolled, it will be about 175 dollars for the work.   Apparently my valve seals are also hard, and he is putting in those too.

 

Worse was the trip the local Subaru dealership.

Ordered some parts. 

1. Intake manifold bolt  (1)   

2. cam o- ring for the rear of the cam shaft. (1)

3. Head pin/ guide for the Head.  (1)

4.  Thermostat bypass hose   (1)

5.  O ring inside the oil pan  "sealer"  I believe this is  going up into the pcv valve  from the pan. (1)

 

total = $41.    

 

Oil pan o-ring alone was $16.   I asked how much the hose was , they told me $14.  I told them to keep it.   I could have bought this stuff from online dealers.  Why they want to bend over potential customers, Ill never understand.   

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They've gone up on that one because retail price used to be about $12.

Last time I bought one was probably over a year ago.

Obviously if evergreen can put one in a $50 kit with a ton of other gaskets they can't be that dam expensive to make. Gonna have to find a better source for those.

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This is the kit I purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P748YU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A131HE22U4WT5U 

 

  And yes I'm sure it's in there because I replaced that one when I had the oil pan off for the reseal.

 

 

Evergreen FS99002 90-98 2.2 Subaru Impreza Legacy EJ22 Full Gasket Set 

 

(updated link and mine was a full engine gasket set)

Edited by lstevens76
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Looks like that seal can be bought from several sources online, partsgeek, autopartswarehouse, for about $6 but shipping is a killer for just that seal by itself.

 

It does look like that seal comes with most of the inexpensive head gasket kits, so if a total reseal is needed, buying a whole kit is worth it, and then you can ditch the cheapo head gaskets and buy a pair of Fel-Pro head gaskets for about an extra $60. (90-98 EJ22 only)

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Picked up the heads today, finally.  They look nice.  End price was 155 dollars.  Included the new valve seals and repair of the one valve guid he said had fallen down against valve.   Hes going to send me pics to my email.  So stop back and ill post em at some point.

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Picked up the heads today, finally.  They look nice.  End price was 155 dollars.  Included the new valve seals and repair of the one valve guid he said had fallen down against valve.   Hes going to send me pics to my email.  So stop back and ill post em at some point.

 

$155 isn't bad.  Did they install the camshaft seals for you as well?  Including the rear o-rings?

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no , they didn't do the seals,  I had put new seals in it last fall when I did the timing belt.

 

I got a rear o ring for the back of the passenger side  I don't know what they charged me the other day, but im sure it was 20x what the thing cost to make.

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