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1993 Loyale Crank No Start Issues


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The other night I drove my (93' Subaru Loyale 5 Speed Manual Wagon 1.8 EA82) for about 2 hours while it was raining out. AC on the entire time. The next day I went to start her up... Nothing It just cranks, and will

 

not start...

 

 

Here is a list of everything I have tried so far:

 

 

Battery: good (tried jumping with my other Subie)

 

Alternator: good

 

Starter: good (clicks everytime I turn the ignition key)

 

Spark Test: No spark even after I put a new distributor rotor on... I'm confused about timing... any tips would help.

 

Distributor Rotor: I've put a new one on. I also checked to see if it was spinning when I cranked the motor to make sure it wasn't a timing belt issue.

 

Ignition coil: good (also put a new one on) Still no spark...

 

Distributor Cap: This is what I'll be changing out today... Hoping this gets a spark.

 

 

If i'm missing anything please help inform me!

 

I'm new to this so forgive me if some of this doesn't make sense. Any tips would help! Thanks!

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It would be extremely unlikely that all 4 spark plug wires failed completely at the same time.

 

How are you testing for spark? If there is no spark from the coil, timing, cap,and rotor have nothing to do with the lack of spark...

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Check all of your fuses. My 89 is very touchy, if even 1 fuse blows it won't run. Even if it's a stupid one that isn't required to run. Also check to see if you have continuity through the ignition coil wire that leads to the dizzy.

 

Good luck!

 

--Nathan

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The power to the distributor is supplied by the ECM. I believe the coil shares a fuse with the fuel pump. Have you checked for voltage at your coil? Have you changed the cap yet? Where are you checking for spark?

If your sure your not getting spark heres whats left too check:

Coils power source (fuse/wiring)

Coil wire and disty cap.

Distributor, or its harness (the distys rarely fail) you may need to pull off the rotor and metal cover to see if its rusted and corroded inside.

The ECM

There are numerous connections for these components which could be corroded or disconnected.

Edited by ihscout54
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When my start went bunk, it would click but not turn over. Have you tried pounding on the starter with a wrench or hammer and then seeing if it will start? Has it been starting irregularly at all lately? eg. when you turn the key, did it ever go *wirr..click.* and then when you turned the key again it would fire up?

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The coil bracket must be grounded to the body. May want to check for that. 

just why is this ? I know some other makes coils coil brackt has a bit on it to grip on to the coil body - likely earthing connection, but never see a coil with an earthing terminal, never see mention, and the electrical diagrams never show the body of the coil to earth do they ? I have just once or twice been able to fix a non starter by ensuring coil is earthed, and numerous times seen others running an engine with a coil just hooked up and not earthed at all - usually in a diagnostic exercise for a non starter

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You might change out the condensor on the alternator.  You might check wire connectors for brittleness and/or breakage at the alternator, at the black wire from the fusible link box to the hot battery terminal connector, and at the engine ground wire at the connection to the body, just behind the left headlight and plainly visible.  Or you could go right to the most likely cause which are the distributor electronic components themselves.  Try changing out the distributor with a working one.  I keep a closet full of extra distributors because I have had a half dozen go out on my 86T.

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  • 9 months later...

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