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ea81 almost dies when floored. And alternator second bracket issue


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Problem has been happening since I bought the car. Whenever I go to floor it the rpm's die down a few hundred, for about one whole second, and then shoot to redline. Problem has been happening on hitachi and weber. (this is the reason I swapped). New ignition coil, wires and plugs. Cap and rotor look good, but should I replace those? This is mostly a problem in gear, letting the clutch out without having rpms at like 6k will cause the car to die. Was thinking a fluid change is in order? Maybe seafoam? When the engine is not under load it almost always only dives down, and doesn't die.

 

Also, how are nn a/c cars' alternators attached? Just with the one bolt? I took off my a/c and that's all I ran for a little bit (hour max) but it seems to get loose too quickly and has destroyed my water pump bearing. How are yours held on? Pics are welcome

 

Thanks -CL

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Your driveability issue sounds alot like carb tuning problems. Things like float level or accelerator pump dive adjustments. if your sure that its not the carb, Ide look over the vacuum routing and recheck for leaks. How did you route the evap lines, and the vac advance line? Have you checked your timing with a light?

Its very common for the Hitachi distributors to have play in the rotor shaft. I have not experienced your symptom from this issue but it could easily cause a number of odd hard to pin down performance problems. Check the rotor for side to side type play. If that checks out you should inspect the vac advance diaphragm with a vac pump or your mouth. The lack of advance probably wouldnt cause this but its not helping. Of coarse a large rupture in the diaphragm is a vac leak and could create tuning issues.

Other thoughts would be engine condition (valve adjustments, gasket leaks, compression, etc)

Im not clear on your alt problem. Are you still using the A/C bracket? Theres one long bolt that has a nut on it and one short that threads directly into the mounting ear. Is one of these stripped? IIRC on the a/c setup the shorter pinch bolt has reversed orientation to the non A/C type. For some reason I remember one setup having the bolt in front of the alt and the other threading in from the rear. Check and make sure this is correct.

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Your driveability issue sounds alot like carb tuning problems. Things like float level or accelerator pump dive adjustments. if your sure that its not the carb, Ide look over the vacuum routing and recheck for leaks. How did you route the evap lines, and the vac advance line? Have you checked your timing with a light?

Its very common for the Hitachi distributors to have play in the rotor shaft. I have not experienced your symptom from this issue but it could easily cause a number of odd hard to pin down performance problems. Check the rotor for side to side type play. If that checks out you should inspect the vac advance diaphragm with a vac pump or your mouth. The lack of advance probably wouldnt cause this but its not helping. Of coarse a large rupture in the diaphragm is a vac leak and could create tuning issues.

Other thoughts would be engine condition (valve adjustments, gasket leaks, compression, etc)

Im not clear on your alt problem. Are you still using the A/C bracket? Theres one long bolt that has a nut on it and one short that threads directly into the mounting ear. Is one of these stripped? IIRC on the a/c setup the shorter pinch bolt has reversed orientation to the non A/C type. For some reason I remember one setup having the bolt in front of the alt and the other threading in from the rear. Check and make sure this is correct.

I don't have the evap canister all the way hooked up, not sure where to plug in some of the lines. I have the vac advance hooked up to the drivers side vacuum inlet on the front of the weber. The ac bracket was broken, and I can't weld aluminum, so I only have one mounting point for the alt.

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