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Hi all, I'm new to the forum.  I have a 2000 Outback wagon that I was keeping a year for my son (out of the Country) that I would start every couple of weeks.  It ran well, until I parked in front of the house for a couple of weeks, then it wouldn't start.  The gas cap wasn't messed with, so I don't think anyone put anything in the tank.    It cranked OK, and the engine would catch for a few beats (like a second or two), then just stop.   If I tried to start it again right away, it would crank but nothing fired unless I waited a minute.  This annoyed me so much I put it up for the winter, and this spring nothing had changed.   The battery was toast, so I replaced it and it cranks fine, engine catches a few beats, then stops.   Here's what I checked so far-  the pump comes on when the ignition is turned on.  When cranked,  It pumps fuel out of the fuel line post filter, so I don't think its the pump or filter.    I pulled a plug, and it seems dry, even after being cranked for a while.    I cranked it with the plug out, and there is no mist coming from the spark plug hole.   The plug is clean, and it sparks fine when cranked. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle opening, it starts great, and will run as long as I give a shot every few seconds. 

 

So this sounds like a fuel problem.    I'm thinking it might be the fuel pressure valve, but one of the two screws is in a really bad spot, and it looks like I'll have to take the whole rail off just to get the pressure regulator valve off.   I could be the fuel pump, but as I said, its pumping gas when cranked.   Could something be shutting the fuel pump off when the engine starts to fire up???   Can the pump work enough to move some gas into a cup, but not build up enough pressure to feed the injectors?  (I'm from the days when fuel pumps worked on a lever riding on a cam on the crankshaft- that should date me)

 

I'd replace the fuel pump, but that's a hundred bucks or more, and a lot more if replace the whole assembly-  and I'm not even sure that's it.   Perhaps after the first few cylinders fire the injectors stop opening up?  Do they have fuses?   Could that mean an ECM problem?  

 

I have an Actron scanner-  no trouble codes.  I don't know what the rest of the freeze frames mean.    As I said, its been a while.  I tried to siphon the old gas out of tank, but it sounds like cars have valves now to prevent that,   I guess I missed that development.

 

Any ideas?  Thanks

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cam sensor wouldn't cause what's described here. It's running fine on starter fluid.

 

Fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator or blockage. It's going to be something simple.

 

A good used pump from a junkyard will run you $25-$50 and only takes about 30 minutes to swap. Access panel in the trunk and 8mm socket and extension.

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Thanks for the responses.   Nope, nothing was done on it the last time I turned it off.  It was running great.  It even runs great when fluid is shot into the throttle opening.  The accelerator petal seems to work the throttle plate/valve fine.   Now that I think about it,  maybe I don't understand fuel injectors that well....   they must need fuel pressure to work, unlike carburetors, which use the venturi effect.   So maybe just moving gas in the line isn't enough, there has to be pressure.  

I'll try and find a used pump,  or maybe a fuel pressure gauge that isn't too expensive.   

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Oh wait. This is a 2000. Pull the fuel pump and check the metal cap/o-ring deal. The cap splits and just pushes fuel back out into the tank.

 

Pics/ discussion/ replacement part numbers in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/page-1

 

Some pic links are dead but still good info there.

Edited by Fairtax4me
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks all for your help.  It was the metal cap/oring.   When I pulled the pump, the cap was cracked at one of the tangs and the o-ring was protruding.  the ring looked like it was swollen to a larger size, and didn't fit well into the cap.    Found a used but broken assembly with an intact cap at a junkyard for $22 and a new pack of viton o-rings at Amazon for $10 and I was all set.  It runs perfectly now.   I attached a picture.

 

You guys are great...   you saved me hundreds of dollars, plus it was fun going to the junkyard and getting this fixed.  I didn't know this could still be done!

 

 post-59000-0-94366000-1437650405_thumb.jpg

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