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Power to main n fp relays, but none coming out


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97 legacy outback have power to both those relays, but with key in on position there is no power coming out of either.  Actually .65 or so on one of the main relay ouputs but none on the other tried other relays also.  Doesn't make sense to me!!!!

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I had it grounded to the same spot to test the incoming n the out going, and I did not hear the relays click at all.  I have 3 of each relay that I've tried also wouldn't think they'd all be bad.

Edited by dangerous
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If the relays don't click when you turn the key on, you're not getting power to/from the ECU. ECU turns on those relays.

It supplies 12v on the light green wire for the main relay.

ECU grounds the purple wire at the fuel pump relay.

Check the yellow wire at the fuel pump relay for 12v with the key on. Same wire supplies the turn on voltage to the ECU. If no power there the ECU will not turn on the relays.

 

Have you checked all the fuses in the underhood and dash fuse panels?

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I've checked all the fuses they are fine, and I have power to the yellow wire on the fp relay. I jumped the power from where I had it coming in from behind the first split by the steering column over to where it was coming out from behind the heater core area where there wasn't power.  Also have power to the r, y/r, blk/y, but not to the b/r coming out of thenew ignition switch I put in.  The weird thing about that switch is there are 5 wires coming out of it where the old one only had 4, but the guys at Auto Zone had called a dealership who had said the 5th wire didn't matter.  So it's looking like I'm gonna have to pull the dash back off, and maybe try to get in behind the heater core area huh?  Problem is the big wire packet that is attached to the dash that is keeping me from getting it totally off thus making for a tight work space. 

I see in the book that the b/r wire goes to the clutch switch haven't gotten around to doin a test depressing the clutch, but it should have power coming out from the ignition switch even without doing that shouldn't it?

Should add also that i had considered replacing the keylock cylinder, but opted for the igntion switch first as it was easier.  The key had been a bit screwy in the cylinder though I'd have to play with it to get it out.  Figured it was just a funky tumbler, but wondering if that could have something to do with it?

Edited by dangerous
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No, the key cylinder doesn't affect power.

 

 

Why was the ignition switch replaced? That's something that can be tested pretty easily. I would have opted for a used switch long before laying for a crap aftermarket with the wrong number of wires.

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The ignition switch was a thought a friend had come up with, and I'm 50 miles from the nearest parts store it was the easiest to get. I could put the old one back in easily enough

Edited by dangerous
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Yellow wire on the fuel pump relay comes from the ignition switch. Same wire feeds the ignition coil, and tells the ECU to turn on.

 

 

Check the yellow wire on the ECU. Should be pin 85. 2nd wire from center on the bottom row.

 

Also make sure the main ECU ground is connected on the intake manifold. I think its down low on the drivers side near the flange where it meets the head.

And make sure the two large connectors on the bellhousing are plugged in tight; and the connections are clean.

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