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PCV Valve?


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My car has recently been having troubles starting lately. Here's the jist: When I start my car it wants to turn over and it does most of the time, but after it starts the RPM's drop down to 0 and it stalls. I start it again and it starts up, but I have to give it a little gas in between each gear so it doesn't stall. After driving for 15 minutes or so, it stops doing it, but it still drops down to 500 RPM (Normally at 1000). I want to get it taken care of sooner rather than it being a bigger issue down the road. I am not sure if this is the issue, cause the OBD trouble code says it is, but I recently swapped out the engine and didn't reset the computer codes. For some reason when I try to reset it, it wont work. Any comments help! 

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94 vs 90 I'm pretty sure, is identical.   What code number/s is it showing?  I've not had a problem with a PCV valve since I've been running EA82 powered cars - 1988.  I don't think it could cause idle to fail.

 

2 things I have seen screw up idle - the CTS [coolant temperature sensor] and the Idle air control valve.

 

The CTS is the 2 wire sensor that the ECU uses to deal with the engine temperature.  Not the 1 wire sensor for the thermometer on the dash.

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3 long and 5 short which=35. I looked it up and it's saying purge control solenoid/circuit. Only thing is that computer has been reading that since before i swapped out engines and changed the purge solenoid and egr, and doesn't want to go away.

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that code only indicates that the ECU is detecting the winding of the solenoid is open.  It could also be a broken wire or connector between the ECU and the solenoid.   That code would have little to no effect on idle.  34 is the EGR solenoid code, same things apply.   Nearly every OEM EGR & purge solenoid I have ever had has failed.  My recollection is that when the solenoid / bad connection is fixed, the CEL goes out.  May take a trip or 2.  There is a way to clear the memory, and a diagnostic mode, using a pair of white connectors and green connectors under the hood, an the area above the brake booster.  It's likely written up here somewhere.  It's kind of odd sequence of things to do with the key, gas pedal, driving, etc.  The normal state of the 2 pairs of connectors is that they are not connected.

 

My fix for the solenoids at the link below:

 

http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html

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So I plugged in the white connectors under the hood, which I thought were used to erase the memory, so I could get a fresh start on the OBD codes and diagnose. After plugging them in and turning the key, the code read 12 (Starter Switch or Circuit), 24 (Air control valve or Circuit), and 35 (Purge control solenoid or circuit). I thought that was supposed to get rid of the codes and start fresh, not bring more........Aaaahhhh dog gonnit!

Edited by jbartle6
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would you consider that air control valve a fix needed right away? I gotta drive to work tomorrow and am wondering if I should look for other transportation. I'll work on that sequence and get back to you. Thanks for the help. Also I do have the 1994 subaru loyale air control valve. You think that will be the same one? I am looking online to see if it'll match up, but cant seem to find out the info on it. 

Edited by jbartle6
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I had the idle air control valve fail on one of my EA82s. I just drove by feathering the gas to keep it running. Assuming EA82 SPFI engine, I have interchanged pretty much any part from 88 to 93. 4wd 3AT wagons.

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