Fairtax4me Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Good advice from Jeszek there. Are you testing with the black meter lead connected to battery - terminal? It kind of sounds like you have the socket wired incorrectly. With the black meter lead on battery-, headlamps turned on and plugged in, you should have 12v (or battery voltage) on the red/blue wire regardless of hi or low beam position. With low selected, you'll see 12 on the red/blue and 12 on the red wire because the hi beam ground is . You'll have something like 1.0v on the yellow/blue. With high selected, that will be flipped, you'll see 12 on the red/blue and yellow/blue because the low beam ground is removed, and you'll see about 1.0v on the red wire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Yes, definitely testing with the black meter lead connected to the battery negative terminal. I'm still wondering if it makes any difference whether I'm testing the bare ends of the wires or the back of the socket (when it's connected with a bulb in it)? Also, since it sounds like I might have the socket wired incorrectly, I'm still left wondering how to wire it correctly... :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thank you for responding, JesZek! ... You're Welcome! ... How will I know it's the positive (or power)? What will tell me that - the reading on the multimeter? ... Yes! Good advice from Jeszek there ... Thank You! ... I'm still wondering if it makes any difference whether I'm testing the bare ends of the wires or the back of the socket (when it's connected with a bulb in it)? ... Of course that having the Bulb wired, will make a Difference, please refer to Post Nº 23 to understand the wiring bridge effect, and please Repeat your Tests on each side's Headlamp, without having the Bulb nor the sockets in there, use a pen and a paper to write your findings on each wire, on each side, with Lights ON and with lights off, and then share the results here, with us, so we could understand the headlamps' wiring situation on your car, and help you in a better way. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Thank you again JesZek (and Fairtax4me) for continuing to put up with my ignorant questions. I can certainly repeat my tests, but at the moment, only the LH side has bare wires (on the end). The RH side still has the original bulb and socket and I'd really rather not cut those off as that is the ONLY headlight that's working at the moment. So on that side, I can test the wires going into the socket (without the bulb). That should amount to the same thing (as bare wires) - right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Right! I misread that you had one working Headlamp before, I was helping another persons in another automotive forums at the same time... Sorry. So, if one of the headlamps is in good working order, then do the Tests on its Socket and write your Findings in a Paper, is better (Easier) idea to draw the socket facing towards you, and write what current does have any wiring on its positions, the test must be done in three steps per Headlamp: With Headlights OFF. With Headlights ON in Low Beams, With Headlights ON in High Beams. Repeat same test on the Non-Working side. Then Compare the Results from that Working Headlamp, with the Results from the Non-Working Headlamp. And let us know the Results ... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 Yep, that's what I just did. And here are the results (tests done with the engine off). First, I tested all the wires (L & R) WITHOUT a bulb in either socket. All the meter readings were negligible (.00V - .25V). Next, I tested with bulbs IN on both sides: Passenger Side Lights Off: Red = .01V Yellow/Blue = .01V Black/Yellow = .01V High On: Red = .58V Yellow/Blue = 9.44V Black/Yellow = 9.57V (bright light) Low On: Red = 9.62V Yellow/Blue = .43V Black/Yellow = 9.67V (bright light) Drivers Side Lights Off: Red = .01V Yellow/Blue = .01V Red/Blue = .01V High On: Red = .64V Yellow Blue = 5.65V Red/Blue = 2.67V (very dim glow) Low On: Red = 6.20V Yellow/Blue = .45V Red/Blue = 3.73V (very dim glow) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Evidently, the problem lies on the Yellow / blue and the Red / Blue Wires from the Driver's side Headlamp. You must follow the Wirings from the tip, until you find a fail, usually wires that lost their protective cover somehow and are touching bare metal, or a form of electrical false contact, sometimes wirings gets crushed between metallic parts, or breaks due to repeated movement. So, inspecting those wires is your best Bet. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 I was afraid you were going to say something like that... :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Well, I'm sorry but some repairs gets Complicated, to find easy solutions... Take your time to do it Good at Once, be Patient, put a Radio with music nearby... You might enjoy doing Repairs in your car if you're patient enough to find the Solutions. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 I guess the first place I should look is somewhere "...between the lamp connector and the splice where the wires join, or at the splice." (as Fairtax4me suggested). That seems like the most likely suspect (area), since the right headlight is still working. Figures that it would be in a rather difficult area to access. Could be worse, though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 And you have the wires connected properly on the new connector? They match the passenger side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 ...and also are you Sure that the Relay's wiring is alright, isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Well, there's no way to be 100% sure that I've got the wires connected properly on the new connector, since nobody ever answered my question about that. But I gave it my best shot and tried to match up locations with the passenger connector (the one that still works great). Facing the front of the car: Red wire on the right, Yellow/Blue wire at the top (middle) and Black/Yellow wire on the left. As for the relays, I wouldn't know one if I saw one. In any case, I haven't touched anything except the headlights/connectors. And everything else electrical works on the car (except for the windshield washers, which is my next project after the headlight). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 ... As for the relays, I wouldn't know one if I saw one. In any case, I haven't touched anything ... Maybe your Relay got melted wires or have an internal false contact... A relay is a remote schitching box, it handles the input and output of the High Current for the Device it powers, in this case, the Headlamp; then it receives a switching signal from the Switch, that actually turns on and off the device (Headlamp, Horn, Fan, etc...) if you have some time, please read this small portion at the end of my Writeup regarding Relays, it could be Useful. ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/?p=1194112 Look for the Relays on the Black Box, they're next to Fuses usually. Worth try to check them first, prior to continue... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 "on the Black Box". Is that the Black Box under the dash or in the engine compartment? And how will I know if "Relay got melted wires or have an internal false contact"? Will it be obvious or will I have to tear it apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Search for a Black Box with electrical wiring coming and going. To test a Relay itself is pretty Easy if there are more identical relays on said box. Certain cars uses identical relays for Horn, Headlamps, A/C condenser's Fan, etc... You only need to take off the Headlamp's Relay and swap it with a Known good one, Such like the Horn, in case those are identical between each other, Then, try your Headlamp's Relay on the Horn and see if it works. Good Luck! ... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) Sound like you have it wired correctly. I don't remember which relays are where for the headlamps. How did you connect the wires on the new connector? Crimp connectors? Edited August 10, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Yes, crimp connectors. Is that not good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Crimp connectors are fine. The relays for the lamps are in the fuse panel under the hood. One for left and one for right. It should say on the label. You can try swapping them and see if the problem follows. The fuses for the headlamps are in the same box. Make sure they're ok just for good measure. The blue/red wire just runs up the harness and into the fuse panel. If swapping the relays doesn't change the issue, find that wire in the fuse box and check voltage there (you have to unbolt the box and flip it over) while the lights are on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thank you! I will do that and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 OK, here's the results of the first test (swapping relays). Haven't done the others, yet. There's no change when I swap the LH and RH relays (right headlight stays bright and left headlight stays dim). But here's what's interesting (to me, at least) - when I completely remove the LH relay, the situation remains exactly the same (right headlight stays bright and left headlight stays dim). But when I remove the RH relay (and leave the LH relay plugged in), BOTH headlights go out! Of course, I have no idea what that means. It just seems strange... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 OMG. I think we can FINALLY put this thread out of its misery. LH fuse was blown. Replaced it with one of the spares and, BAM! Instant headlights - both high beams AND low beams on BOTH sides. I know that fuse wasn't always like that, as it was one of the very first things I checked. I must've blown it in all my wiring adventures with the new socket. Anyway, thank you Fairtax4me and JesZeK for hanging in there with me and enduring all my stupid questions. I'll leave you alone for now. But you're not done with me, yet. I still have windshield washers to work on... later... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 ... Anyway, thank you Fairtax4me and JesZeK for hanging in there with me ... You're Welcome! Thank you for let us Know the Solution, we dislike unfinished Threads. I kindly suggest you to start a new thread for every different problem. In that way, each one will gain the required attention for the Subject. Kind Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Gotta check those fuses. Glad you got it fixed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xntryk1 Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 I promise, I DID check the fuses - at the very beginning (when I just had high beam on the LH side and no low beam). But then I didn't check them again, until the very end. Sorry to waste everyone's time trying to diagnose something that had such a simple fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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