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93 loyale power locks went kapoot?


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I noticed that when I used my power locks to lock my doors, it sometimes wouldn't lock on the first try and I would have to flip the lock switch a couple times for it to finally work. I went camping for the weekend and when I came home to my car I started it, drove it around and then tried to lock it. It wouldn't lock all 4 doors and the hatch unless I did it with my key. Any ideas on what this could be? Thanks

 

-Tanner

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You used the key in the driver's door & all the doors locked?

If so, the power locks are working fine, the signal to lock the other doors comes from the driver's door being locked.

 

you need to check the linkages between the lock button & lock inside your driver's door. They're prob worn out & gotten loose so the linkages aren't pushing onto the lock properly.

 

And did your computer have a repeat attack? Why the 7 repeated threads? :P

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So what do you think it could be @mr_loyale?? I'm gettin many diffrent replies here haha

 

 Did you check the fuse?

 

You said "it wouldn't lock ALL doors" does that mean it DID lock SOME doors? If SOME doors lock, which doors are the? Details are kind of fundamental in troubleshooting.

 

I had the passenger side actuator go out my 93 Loyale. On my 92 Loyale the power locks would blow a fuse because the previous owner mounted after market speakers in the doors and one of the screw pierced the wiring.

Edited by MR_Loyale
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Do any of the switches work? Which ones if any?

Well there is only 1 lock switch on the drivers side door that locks all the doors and it doesn't work. All the windows work except the drivers side rear window but that is because I disconnected the window because it was off track.

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Well there is only 1 lock switch on the drivers side door that locks all the doors and it doesn't work. All the windows work except the drivers side rear window but that is because I disconnected the window because it was off track.

 

Do any of the three actuators lock the door when you turn the key on the driver side? Do any of them lock when you lock the driver side from inside the car pushing the latch?

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Do any of the three actuators lock the door when you turn the key on the driver side? Do any of them lock when you lock the driver side from inside the car pushing the latch?

 

No when I push the lock button on the drivers door the only door that locks is the drivers door same with the key so now I have to manually lock all of my doors.

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I pulled them out and made sure they weren't burnt out. I didn't ohm read them or anything g but the fuse looked just fine.

 

You cannot prove a fuse is good by visual alone. However you can verify it with some deduction and fuse swapping. Your washer/ wiper uses a 20 A fuse. If your washer/wipers works, then swap the door lock fuse into the washer wiper and see if the washer wiper still works. If it does, the fuse is good, if not it is bad. Trust me a visual inspection alone doesn't prove it is good. 

 

Many hours may be wasted relying on the visual test of fuses. Ask me how I know.

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You cannot prove a fuse is good by visual alone. However you can verify it with some deduction and fuse swapping. Your washer/ wiper uses a 20 A fuse. If your washer/wipers works, then swap the door lock fuse into the washer wiper and see if the washer wiper still works. If it does, the fuse is good, if not it is bad. Trust me a visual inspection alone doesn't prove it is good.

 

Many hours may be wasted relying on the visual test of fuses. Ask me how I know.

Haha yeah I needa do that tomorrow. And if it still doesn't work then I'm stumped. I mean it could be the wiring but I'm really hoping it's not.

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You can remove the door panel, two screw in armrest, pop off lock latch housing and then the whole door panel pops off. The switch will be attached to the control arms that are moved when the key is turned. i do not remember exactly where it is mounted in the door, but if you follow the control rods, you will find it. While you are there it would be a good time to grease the window tracks too.

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