Automatic Transmission code retrieval 1996 Legacy Outback

[Raul94530]

I have a 1996 Subaru legacy outback 2.5 L Automatic transmission. The AT TEMP light is blinking 16 times at startup. I've had this issue before and replaced a C solenoid in the transmission. This time I have no torque bind. But I do have hard shifting. Both upshift and downshift. So I suspect the Transmission pressure control solenoid. I have not been able to pull the codes. I have tried the Handshake method to no avail. I did later find the B82. It had the two ground wires. I grounded pin #5 trying both the ground connectors and then tried to ground it to the body and still no codes. AT TEMP Light just stays on steady. When I did the C solenoid 4 years ago I forget if I had to take the end of the transmission off or if it was just in the pan. Anyone know about the A Solenoid. Where I can find one? How to test it maybe at the wiring harness. I am led to believe it is a phase 2 4EAT Transmission. How can I confirm that as the manuals I have been looking at sometimes refer to the Phase 1. Also is there any really good diagrams or manuals for this?  How involved it is to replace. I think it said I have to remove the valve body. But first of course it would be nice to be able to  retrieve some codes to make sure Im chasing the right problem. So maybe some help with that first. Thank You

[Fairtax4me]

Move the shifter to D with the key off.

Connect the diagnostic terminal pin 5 to ground using the ground pins in the harness.

Turn the key On, then move the shifter to 3,2,1, then press the accelerator pedal and it should start blinking the codes.

 

Code 11 is Duty A/ line pressure solenoid. There is a bank of 4 solenoids on top of the valve body on the right side. A is the first in the line, mounted separately of the others.

If trans work has been done before pull the pan off and inspect the wiring. Could be a pinched wire.

Edited August 27, 2015 by Fairtax4me

[Raul94530]

Thank You That worked great. I was able to get a code 13.I think that is the shift solenoid 3. I will test the resistance at the Transmission harness this weekend. I think I have the right diagram for that.  Would you happen to know if that is a solenoid that requires removing the Valve body? I Can deal with all the screws.Its the loosing of any parts that worries me. Thanks again for your spot on advice. OH and if you know of any better diagrams or diagnostics for that trouble code. It might be better that what I have now.

[idosubaru]

FSM's are available free all over the internet and have good diagrams/procedures as a starting point.

Opposedforces website also has some exploded views that help.

 

Sometimes even ebay - the dealers put the exploded view on there and it may help determine if it's simply right under the pan or not.

 

I did an H6 trans and the solenoids were all easily accessible right under the pan.

[Raul94530]

This weekend I checked the resistance on Shift solenoid 3 and it was 8 ohms. Its supposed to be between 20 and 32 Ohms.I even Ohmed Shift solenoids 1 and 2 which have the same resistance value and they both came in at 27 Ohms for comparison which is good. From what Ive read the valve body does need to come out to replace the solenoid. Mine is a 1996 Subaru Outback 2.5L. I've seen that some newer models don't require the valve body to be removed to get to the solenoids. But before I do that does anyone know where I can purchase the replacement Shift solenoid 3 other than a dealership. Which I've read sells only the complete valve body. I just want to make sure I have ready access to the replacement before blocking my driveway for the next few weeks. I saw the comment about it possibly being a pinched wire. I would agree but the transmission hasn't been worked on since I replaced the C Solenoid 3 years and 80,000 miles ago. And any advice on removing the valve body. I have the instructions but just wanted to see if anyone that has done this before has any special tips or precautions.

[Fairtax4me]

I think solenoids 1, 2, and 3 come as a set. It's a bank of 3 solenoids and I don't remember if they're connected or not.

Used is a good option here. They don't fail very often.

 

You may be able to find new ones if you search around. There are a few retailers out there that sell rebuild parts for the 4eat.

[Raul94530]

OK thanks you just confirmed what I was looking at. Your right I even called the dealership and they said there was 4 all with the same part number for 350.00 each but I think they mean if one goes out you buy the set of 4. I saw a pic and it looks like a set of 3 and a fourth connected by the harness.

This one says its for a R4AX-EL which Im lead to believe is the same or at least interchangeable with my 4EAT transmission. Ill know more by Monday. This will be my weekend project. I have had a bad C solenoid before and have seen lotsa postings about it. But few on this so it leads me to believe your correct that they rarely fail So I might even try a junk yard first about 25.00 for the replacement if I can find one. Ill bring my ohm meter with me to test on site if I can. If not Ebay has this one for 85.00 but would be hard to return if not correct or I now found oneline for 250.00. But your feedback is appreciated in giving me assurance Im barking up the  right tree. Thanks again.

 

[Raul94530]

So this Saturday I took down the Valve body. And I did see where 2 wires had the insulation missing in different spots. Soobaroo was right about them rarely failing and a bad wire. I think that's why I had so much trouble getting information on it. Unlike the "C" solenoid which is everywhere. It saved me some money in the end and a trip to the junk yard. So I snipped the exposed wires and put them back together with  two butt connectors. I rechecked and the resistance was now OK. They were bare but It didn't look like the had rubbed on anything. I cant tell what caused it.  When I took down the Valve body Out came 3 springs and I noticed a rod moving around freely inside. I figured out where the springs go into the accumulators. But I didn't realize what the rod was for. After putting everything together Car started and no Oil Temp light flashing. Only problem was no matter what  the car would only go forward. I found a Youtube video that explained that was the Manual control rod. I hadn't connected it to the shift linkage. I took it back apart Sunday and was able to loosen the valve body enough without removing it completely to connect the manual control rod to the shift linkage. And Wallah. Everything is good so far. Shifts smooth. No more hard shifting or AT light flashing. The things that gave me the most help was the description of how to pull the Trans codes. Id heard of the connector under the dash and the handshake. I just had no idea I had to do both. And then the diagram and resistance values helped determine the problem. When under the car I had enlarged and printed out the diagram of the screws I needed to take out the valve body. If I didn't have that diagram it would have been near impossible to figure out as you only need to take out about half the screws. I followed the diagram closely having it on a clipboard leaned on the inside of the tire both times I removed and reinstalled the Valve body. So thanks for the help. My Subaru is back on the road.