MDW Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Doing brakes on a friends forester, hands super oily cant search blogs, please help the rear pin in this picture does not slide, is this suposed to slide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 2003 forester, front discs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Yes both pins on a disc brake caliper are supposed to slide. This allows the pad to move evenly. I would suspect someone didn't grease the pins last time the pads were changed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 You should pull that pin, check for damage if it needs replaced and make sure to grease it upon reassembly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Thanks! Its the same rear one on both front calipers, the tops one works bottom ones do not...Im guessing this is a candidate for new calipers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Not until you at least try to get the pin out. That pin is in the bracket, not the caliper itself. See what the pin looks like before making a decision. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 It's common for the lower slide pin to seize up, especially anywhere there's a winter with salty roads. Free it up, clean it up, and use synthetic caliper grease on them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) work the pin out with a hammer, torch, or pliers - turning turning turning...etc etc...then starting pulling and banging it - it'll usually come out. clean it up really well. use Silglyde or it'll happen again. i've had the regular permatex and other typical brake greases seize again shortly afterwards. Silglyde is much better. probably an artifact of the abrasive winter road treatments we see in the east/midwest. if it has the slide pin busings like that era OB does - remove them and throw them away. They routinely swell and seize in the caliper bore. actually they often swell after being properly regreased - probably different compounds in the caliper grease reacting to the rubber. they aren't needed, solve nothing, and cause no issues being throw away so i've been doing that for years as "preventative maintenance", i severely dislike having a point of failure that is not necessary at all. Edited August 27, 2015 by grossgary 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 trying ot sell my friend on this forum, I use it all the time for my old subies, I think y'all just sold him, haha, we will keep working at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 The lower pins may have a rubber bushing on them. Using the wrong grease causes the bushing to expand and stick in the bore. If that's the case you need to replace the bushing. Use brake grease to lubricate the pins on reassembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Thanks everyone, We were able to get the pins out, soaked them in gasoline to take a layer of rust off, cleaned em up, took the rubber bushing off, re-installed and the brakes are now good as new!! Im thinking the stuck pins were the contributor to this: Edited August 28, 2015 by MDW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Yea, I have had same slide problem with stuck slide pins. So, like yours, the pin froze, so pad wore out early, then metal on metal gouged into the rotor. If rotor is not gouged too bad, in the past, I have just installed new pads and drove on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 what the crack smoker? the inner part of the rotor separated from the outer? i've never seen that before or it's an optical illusion? that's crazy...i keep relooking at that photo. i throw the bushings away - they're pointless and cause failures/issues. they're not needed. you can drive with grooved/torn up rotors all day long - causes no issues at all and mechanically they should perform better - more surface area = larger effective rotor surface = more heat dissipation. you now have performance rotors people buy on ebay. your pads will just last 45,000 miles instead of 49,000 miles. in the rust belt the pins will seize and just wear the pads out early again anyway so who cares?! LOL 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) I have only heard of the friction part of a rotor separating from the hub/mount once before - and that was decades ago on a co-workers old late 70s or early 80s Toyota. crazy!f Edited August 28, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) any indication if that's a replacement or Subaru rotor? i've seen countless seized calipers, some had to be torched apart, not reusable, and rotors grooved and calipers that disintegrated the pads such that they just felll out in pieces and nothing was left....and never a rotor separation like that. Edited August 28, 2015 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Yep, that would cause that. That's just metal fatigue from the caliper applying pressure to only the one side of the rotor on a constant basis. Year ago I saw a set of solid rotors that the pads had worn out on. The person kept driving anyway. Pads wore all the way down to metal on metal, still driving. Metal worn down and the piston popped out of the caliper and got hung up cocked sideways against the rotor, still kept driving. Finally the rotor wore through in the center and broke away from the hub. They rode around for another couple months until the front pads had worn out, and they finally brought it in because the brakes were making "a little noise". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 while on the subject of brakes, how loose or tight should the pads be in the calipers? i know too tight will make it harder to stop, but what about too loose? i did my brakes on my 98 obw, 160k, A/T, last fall. i don't drive it much , waiting on a teen to turn 16. i drove it the other day and the front pads are dragging. when i test it by driving in a tight left hand circle the dragging noise almost stopped. when i straighten back up it returned. loose sloppy pads, or what? i have had pads drag due to caliper slide pins, and i have swapped out pads and rotors for years with little or no problems. i have never wondered about pads being too loose. but this i find a bit unusual. i guess i should try a right hand circle as well. and start driving it every day. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 (edited) Generally if theyre too loose they bounce around and make a clicking/rattling sound over some bumps. The pads will always drag against the rotor a little bit no matter what you do. But just the pads own weight resting against the rotor will not cause it to wear any noticable amount. You're probably just hearing the pads scraping away at some surface rust on the rotor. It only takes a few days of humid weather for the rotors to rust on the braking surface. Edited August 30, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 cant fix stupid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 I'm not sure if rotor is subaru or replacement, I would say it's most probably replacement. When I took the tire off, my jaw dropped..I couldn't believe it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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