Sapper 157 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 The pinhole small bubbles in radiator won't show on a compression check. When it gets worse, yes. The easiest way to tell is how fast does coolant disappear from the recovery bottle over a few drive cycles. Is there more or less air in the upper hose each time? When this failure gets toward the bad range, so much "air" get pushed into the coolant system that a short drive will cause the recovery bottle to overflow. At this point, there is no question. I have always resealed a spare engine, then swapped it. Yes, it can be done on the car, but it's a lot easier to get at and see everything on a stand. I have an EA81... I dont have an overflow bottle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 This is where I use OEM gaskets also. Just my opinion. Where do I go to buy OEM gaskets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 I have an EA81... I dont have an overflow bottle.. But you can adapt one for sure. Where do I go to buy OEM gaskets? Have you tried at your nearest Subaru dealer? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Have you tried at your nearest Subaru dealer? No but i will go there first. I suppose it is not advised to get aftermarket HGs? I found some on RockAuto by a company called FelPro... but if you guys think it is worth it to get OEM ones then I definitely will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 The felpro blue permatorq gaskets are all ive ever used. Have used them on one ea71 and 2 ea81s. Didnt have any post-op issues. It is one of the few things Ill go aftermarket on. But you still need many other gaskets for this job. Please read that linked thread I posted many posts up, and test before you dive in. Some bubbles and and off reading EA81 gauge would not be proof enough for me... Now if the fan is running nonstop and the radiator is full of foam, ok its time to order parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 The felpro blue permatorq gaskets are all ive ever used. Have used them on one ea71 and 2 ea81s. Didnt have any post-op issues. It is one of the few things Ill go aftermarket on. But you still need many other gaskets for this job. Please read that linked thread I posted many posts up, and test before you dive in. Some bubbles and and off reading EA81 gauge would not be proof enough for me... Now if the fan is running nonstop and the radiator is full of foam, ok its time to order parts. okay, well my fan is not running all the time, and I wouldnt describe it as 'foam', just bubbles. So I will try to get a hold of a thermal reader and do some tests Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 My new hatch is giving me some of these symptoms. My gut is telling me Im gunna have to do a head job. Im too busy to mess with it so I refuse to buy fluid and use the tester on it. I dont wanna know right now. Its not using alot of coolant and doest run hot. Once the house is done Ill order up some gaskets, a clutch, some hoses, and plan to give the machinist his hundred bux. A head gasket is rarely ever just a head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I have an EA81... I dont have an overflow bottle.. I suggest adding one. Increases the cooling system capacity. I had added on on my 76, and 78 back when I had those. And helps with figuring this sort of thing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I have used the Fel Pro and it worked fine. I started buying the Head Gaskets from Subaru only because when they are placed side by side and on top of each other there was a big difference in height and appearance. So for the time it takes I just buy intake gaskets and head gaskets from Subaru. Again just an opinion. Not trying to start a separate argument. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 (edited) I have used the Fel Pro and it worked fine. I started buying the Head Gaskets from Subaru only because when they are placed side by side and on top of each other there was a big difference in height and appearance. So for the time it takes I just buy intake gaskets and head gaskets from Subaru. Again just an opinion. Not trying to start a separate argument. Why argue with a good opinion? Just becuse some of us didnt use the genuines doesnt mean they arent awesome. The felpro HGs seem to be quite acceptable in quality. Now, some aftermarket intake manifold gaskets and clutch cables are good examples of quite unacceptable quality. At least the factory gaskets have a real proven track record. I have a set of Subaru HGs for an EA71, IIRC they looked lame next to the felpros, but again we know the facotry units work pretty well, Edited September 24, 2015 by ihscout54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Also, Felpro claims that the gaskets dont require re-torque after installation. Its what sold me on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I have had good luck with the no re torque Fel Pro head gaskets.After having multiple intake gasket failures, I have bought a pile of OEM gaskets. They are made differently - not just paperboard or whatever even the original ones were made from. They are now layered with metal, and the mating surfaces are slippery, I suspect to help deal with uneven expansion. NOTE: EA82 engines. I am not sure about what they have done for the older versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Its the same for the EA81s. I also keep an extra set of "good" intake manifold gaskets in stock. As mentioned, fordssubarus post offers a valid point. The reason I discovered the masonite intake manifold gaskets suck, was becuase they came in a Felpro set with the HGs. I installed them and thought nothing of it. After about 9 months they emulsified and needed replaced. Some Felpro sets may even come with different HGs, so I now just get what I need and avoid the kits. I would not be opposed to buying this stuff from an online Subaru parts source, if the prices were good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 So I havent been able to test my hoses to see how warm they are getting or been able to do an radiator emissions test, but just for when I do replace the HGs, what other seals do I need to do this job? and also, if/when I do replace the HGs, would it be a bad idea to layer the HGs with a coat of RIGHT STUFF gasket maker before installation? I am going to be in aviation training and I start A&P training next year and we are encouraged to bring any personal projects to the hanger. So next year I was planning to take it to the hanger, pull the engine, reseal the whole thing, redo the clutch, and de-grease the sucker. So even if I dont need to replace the HGs now, I would still like to collect information for next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 What I've done, is get the Fel Pro head set. Use all the gaskets and seals in there, except Oem intake gaskets, and the oem o rings for the oIL passage to the cam. Do not put anything on ahead gasket! Resurface the heads with the post apocalyptic method, or a machine shop. Be sure the block faces are good also. I have one head bolt that I ground the end of to make it like a self tapping screw, and use it to clean the threads in the block. Get the engine to operating temperature before trying to remove the intake bolts or the head bolts. A space heater and a heat gun do this pretty well. Meat thermometer to verify temperature. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 What I've done, is get the Fel Pro head set. Use all the gaskets and seals in there, except Oem intake gaskets, and the oem o rings for the oIL passage to the cam. Do not put anything on ahead gasket! Resurface the heads with the post apocalyptic method, or a machine shop. Be sure the block faces are good also. I have one head bolt that I ground the end of to make it like a self tapping screw, and use it to clean the threads in the block. Get the engine to operating temperature before trying to remove the intake bolts or the head bolts. A space heater and a heat gun do this pretty well. Meat thermometer to verify temperature. Okay thanks for the advice. I just thought of this but could it be that my radiator cap spring is getting weak? Or possibly something else messed up with the cap? Would it be advisable to replace it (its the original one)? So far I have seen two pressures available, 16 and 13 psi. Even if that is not the problem, im thinking replacing it anyways so as to keep it from failing in the future. Which pressure rating should I get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 Oh wait never mind. I guess 13psi is all that is available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 When I have had the slow leak bad headgaskets, I have gotten away with running a zero pressure radiator cap. And I have continued the experiment since resealing the engines in both of my wagons last year. I have had no problems with the cooling systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Okay so I am still not 100% sure if my HG is compromised or not. I have not been able to get a hold of a thermal gun or one of those radiator emission testers. So here is what I am thinking: being as that I did overheat it recently, even if the HGs survived the overheat with minimal damage, it would be a good idea to redo them anyways, correct? So I think I am going to buy one of the FelPro kits like DaveT recommends. Dont worry, I will make sure to use OEM intake manifold gaskets. But here is the catch, I really do not want to pull the engine (and indeed, do not have the facilities to do it either) So what I need to know is what is the bare minimum that needs to be done along with the HGs? This will be my first time actually taking this engine (or any engine for that matter) apart and I would really only like to do what is needed. So what, besides, HGs, do I need to replace while I have the heads out? I have read up a little and I have heard it is a good idea to replace the valve stem seals. How complicated is that procedure on an EA81 and how easy is it to mess up the valves while replacing those seals? I'm sorry for the bombardment of rookie questions and I hope I'm not asking a question that has already been answered on this thread, but i just want to make extra sure I know what absolutely needs to be redone and how to redo it before going into this job. Thanks a bunch in advance! You guys are life savers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I'll have to rely on someone familiar with EA81s for specifics - But yes, do the valve seals. You need to rig something to compress the springs to remove the keepers. If you leave the valves in place, do them 1 at a time, no worries about mixing them up. I've lapped them on a few engines, but it didn't seem very necessary. You need to resurface the heads, either DIY with the post apocalyptic method, or a machine shop can do it for $. You may have to touch up the block surfaces also. This all can be done on the car, it's just a lot easier to do on a stand. I think I did my first one on the car. I now have the equipment, and spare engines, so I get one ready, then do a swap. Since your engine runs, when you are ready to disassemble it, run it to normal operating temperature. Think this all through, and plan and have tools ready before you start - the idea is to do this all while the engine is still as warm as possible. If you are running a normal pressure radiator cap, release the pressure first. Then loosen the intake manifold bolts VERY carefully. Do this ASAP after shutdown. Once they start to turn freely, you can move to the next one. And the head bolts. If you try to remove them cold, the risk of snapping one is a lot higher. I had one intake bolt so crudded up that it would not pull out of the intake manifold clearance hole, but it unscrewed from the block. I worked it out gradually later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 If your oil pan gasket leaks i would do that and replace it with rtv. You might also want to reseal your oil pump. Good time to replace the coolant hoses especially the small ones on the intake if they haven't been done before. Along with flushing the coolant system. I've used the complete felpro kits and never have had a problem. Probably best to just take your heads in and have the resurface them, valves ground if needed, and have them replace your valve seals which comes in the felpro kit. I had both of my heads on a ea81t rebuilt for $80 and $40 to have them pressure tested (to make sure they were good before i got them rebuilt). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 I already replaced the oil pan gasket with RTV but I might go ahead and redo it with Right Stuff RTV just to be extra sure its sealed. So... some people are saying Felpro intake gaskets are crap... others are saying they work fine. I would really like to do the safe thing and go with OEM, but for the life of me I cant find them online. Anyone know where I can get them? Lack of funds will prevent me from being able to have them professionally resurfaced. (I can barely afford the Felpro kit) I will just have to use the post apocalyptic method to resurface them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Subaru-parts-dealer.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Some things you won't find, just fill out the contact form with what you want. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Okay I just found this in ebay. for some reason the stupid thing that tells me if it fits my car or not is telling me it wont fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-intake-manifold-gasket-set-1-8L-new-GL-80-89-/121776044673?fits=Make%3ASubaru i think it should because it says it is for 1.8L and since my engine is a 1.8L so it should fit right? So I guess my question is, would these work? Do they look like OEM ones? Edited October 12, 2015 by Sapper 157 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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