W&M-Auto Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 I just bought a 96 Legacy 2.2 awd timing belt was off of it and timing cover off. Nice overall car the story being that they had taken the car in for service at a local shop had timing belt and water pump replaced. Then after about 100 miles it started running really bad very little power. So then the ladies son took it apart and thought the belt had jumped time. I put it all back together and it rolls over occasionally backfires and wont start. Please help i have had the belt off and on approximately 15 to 20 times so far 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Just a guess but you probably used the wrong timing mark. There are postings that show which mark to use and which not to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W&M-Auto Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Thanks for the reply wich posts would you suggest for propper info on this also my title says 97 build date is 7/96 kinda wierd secondary question is why do i have manually adjustable valves when even alldata shows hydraulic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 (edited) title says 97 build date is 7/96 this is a 97 model year, and it has adjustable valve clearance. it is also an interference engine, you may have bent valves. re-hang the belt and see how it runs. if it runs well, drive it. if wonky, do a compression test. if compression is bad, buy a replacement head, (probably cheaper than machine shop and valve replacement?????) (www.car-part.com sort b y zip code.) do a search for ''ej22 timing marks.'' the simple answer is the hash marks , NOT the ARROWS. crank hash is on rear tab, cam hash is on front face outer edge. put all three at 12 oclock. all pistons will be at mid-stroke. Edited September 24, 2015 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W&M-Auto Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Is it typical to bend all the intake valves when when these jump time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 it is typical to bend some valves. not guaranteed. intake valves makes sense but i have not studied it. but it is possible to escape bent valves altogether. it happens occasionally. presumably this engine was timed wrong during belt replacement. i do not know if that is better or worse. re-install the belt and see. no parts to buy, just some time. remove the rad fans and have at it. you can test run it without the alt / steering belts or timing covers. you could probably do the compression test that way as well, if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W&M-Auto Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Put compression tester hose in each spark plug hole then attached my air hose to it and im getting air blowing up through the intake on every cylinder. Don't seem to have anything coming out the exhaust side or crankcase looks like im pulling heads. Good thing I only gave $100.00 for the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 are you positive all the valves are closed when you're doing the tests? I'm sure you know this but the timing belt needs hung correctly - and as John said - the wrong mark is typically used, use the dash on the very back of the crank sprocket, not the mark on the face (triangle?). these heads are super duper easy to remove - all the head bolts are external, i wouldn't even pull the engine for this. I'd install 2 used heads - resurface them http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ new valve cover gaskets a complete Gates timing kit from Amazon new cam seals, 2 cam cap orings reseal oil pump and tigthen backing plate screws new water pump and use a Subaru gasket (the aftermarkets are flimsy cardboard) drive it another 100,000 miles, those engines are awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 I wouldn't even remove the head yet. Pull the valve covers, pull the rocker arms, and retest. If your unsure of timing this eliminates that entirely. Besides it never hurts to adjust the valves and put new spark plug grommets/valve cover gaskets on. And if it fails your probably going to want to pull the heads anyways. As for used vrs rebuilt heads it comes down to your area and what you can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 Shop damaged the tensioner. The one piece tensioners are difficult to re-compress. Very easy to damage. It loses tension on the belt and allows it to jump timing. Bent valves are good possibility. Unload both cams by turning the drivers side cam timing mark to 6 o'clock, passenger timing mark to 12 o'clock. You'll be able to easily turn both cams about 60°, and all valves should be closed. Then repeat your leakdown test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W&M-Auto Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share Posted September 26, 2015 We'll pulled the heads last night and as expected all intake valves are bent. As far as the tensioner goes how much pressure should it have behind it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 26, 2015 Share Posted September 26, 2015 (edited) the one piece must be compressed very, very, slowly, in the correct position , installed position, (but not installed). and usually they need to be replaced with every timing belt change 100k miles. they will last longer, but not forever. so on a 60k belt interval, like your ej22, maybe replace it every 120k miles. Edited September 26, 2015 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W&M-Auto Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Does anyone know the pressure specs on the tensioner it is like a cylindrical looking piece seperate from the roller it pushes on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Something like 65 lbs IIRC. Its best to replace it if you're unsure. People get impatient and try to compress them too quickly and damage the valve mechanism inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 There's two styles of tensioner, a cylinder that's held on with two bolts and moves it's piston horizontally to push on a tab on the idler pulley, and one that's integral to the arm the idler pulley mounts to and it's piston moves vertically. The first style you compress in a vice, the second style you compress in a vertical press (I use a drill press). With both of them you just gently pull on the handle and the tensioner will slowly give and compress. The problem comes when people try to compress them too fast and crank down tight on them, it blows the seals out inside the tensioner. The spring is still there, so it will tighten the belt, but all the shock dampening is gone, so the tensioner will flap back and forth as the engine runs. That can lead to skipping the belt, and it often sounds like rod knock as the tensioner pounds back and forth. Line the belt up by the small tic marks on the rim of the pulleys and the crank sensor pickup tooth, not by the big arrows on the front of the pulleys. At least the heads are easy to pull on that one. The DOHC's are a PITA. I'd be tempted to price a pair of heads from a junkyard before paying for new valves. 96-98 2.2l's will match, 90-95 will if you also use the exhaust Y pipe from a 95 2.2l or a 96-99 2.5l. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 It'd be cheaper to get replacement heads. Be sure to inspect the pistons for cracks and you MUST have the new heads checked for warping. Too many guys ignore this and end up with head gasket issues as it won't seal correctly. Good news is if the car is physically nice, it probably had nothing else wrong with and was taken care of. For a $100 investment, you could put $500 into getting it running and it'll be a solid car for years to come. I got a 95' Legacy wagon for a winter vehicle 2 years ago, and ended up rotating it into daily driver status and it's been a decent car to me. The bonus to these is they are the modern equivalent to what Chevy with their 350 was in the 80's-90's. Aftermarket is flooded with inexpensive replacement parts as are junk yards. And the fact virtually everything is simple to either get at or remove, makes it even more desirable. Point is, it's worth getting running, even if you have to swap the engine over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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