wagonist Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 If Toonga's design came from C...........d Performance, then I can see where the discrepancy came from. I had a pair of hubs from him, and was told that they were the same as the XT6. Except they weren't in the measurement I've mentioned (which I complained about). I sold those hubs, so I have no reference now. A mate has an XT6 and also a pair of XT6 rear hubs, and they looked different to the aftermarket ones. When you get the Brumby back, please check how far the locater protrudes from the face of the brake rotor. I'll try to get a measurement off my mate, but he's moving house at the moment, so they're probably packed up somewhere. Maybe someone else on here can contribute? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Locator on 4x140 hubs is different to later ones on the 5x100 XT6 : Taken from here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141357-rear-disc-brake-difference-2wd-vs-4wd/ Another view : From here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/80065-alternative-5-lug-recipe-in-the-works/ Also the cross bred one is different again ... ( Found on google ... ) Add Note : They no longer produce this kit, but there are second hand ones to be had ... Note : The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ... Ciao, Bantum ... Edited February 26, 2016 by Bantum 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nico Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Wow they make a kit in the rear where was all this two years ago lol lol.. O well don't need it now.. I just realized the only way to run 5x114.3 would be to put on brembos STi brakes or find the "special" Jdm rotors in 5x114.3 for the 4pot 2 pot I just want better wheels selection and this swap is going to get costly real quick I'll have to think about it more.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Nico, these suited only the floating rear calipers (although if you got the relevant backing plate from the fixed calipers, they would go on). The biggest problem we had with this kit is that he was trying to get ADR approval of some such & trying to sell the kit as a whole. Because most of us have other mods that needed engineering approval, this was an extra cost that wasn't necessary. Most who wanted it, only wanted the rear hubs & the adaptor to hold on the backing plate. Also, the full kit was meant to fit both MY & L models, including the rear rubber brake lines. Which were useless if you already had rear discs, because the lines are different... IMHO, there was also a problem with the wheel locater being nowhere near long enough. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 >Note : The drawing is also missing splines for drive shaft, so you will need to make sure it will work with 4WD BRAT / Brumby with spline count to match ... As the sample had the splines chewed out I cut down a MY rear drum with good splines and the manufacturer is using that for accuracy (and confirming the hardness, which is listed as 28-32 HRc and I have confirmed with an ex-GM design engineer that this is a hardness they would use in their designs). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Wow they make a kit in the rear where was all this two years ago lol lol.. O well don't need it now.. I just realized the only way to run 5x114.3 would be to put on brembos STi brakes or find the "special" Jdm rotors in 5x114.3 for the 4pot 2 pot I just want better wheels selection and this swap is going to get costly real quick I'll have to think about it more.. AFAIK, that was only a 5x100 kit that crossbred made. You could easily redrill the 2-pot rotors.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Is there any news on the hubs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KristjanJohann Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 (edited) Really interested! Edited February 26, 2016 by KristjanJohann Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I'm heading back to Taiwan in about 2 weeks to get the samples. I ordered some Dorman 610-402 studs (2 sets) which should hopefully arrive before I fly over there, so I can confirm they will be the correct size. i'll then be pulling down my Brumby to compare against the original XT6 hubs, given the info from wagonist on the difference between the Crossbred and the OEM designs. I'll run the samples while the drawings are updated with the OEM hubs, and then be ready for volume manufacture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I've got my mate's "spare" Vortex at home which due to rust we're going to just strip & scrap. It's got 5 stud conversion on it using original XT6 rear hubs. Will try to pull them out ASAP & get a pic & measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 That'd be awesome. All I need is my drawing marked up with the corrected dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) Pic of XT6 hub with measurement (sorry, I've lost my vernier calipers). As you can see, the measurement for the wheel locator, which sticks out from the brake rotor locator) is at least 5mm Edited March 2, 2016 by wagonist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 I'd note also missing from that drawing is two 6mm threaded holes - for removing brake disc, which should be a press fit ... Getting there ... Ciao, Bantum ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Good point, I didn't even think of that...this is why I need to have an original to compare against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) No, the thread holes are on the brake disc itself, not on the hub. You wind the bolt into the rotor & it pushes against the hub to wind itself off. The threaded holes in the XT6 hubs don't line up with those on the EJ rotors. I'm not sure if the XT6 rear rotors are held on with screws to the hub. My mate's XT6 is currently in at the panel shop getting a respray to go check. But I do know that the ABS ring uses the other 5 holes (JDM had ABS as an option, USDM didn't). But, basically, don't need them, nor the 5 extra holes for the ABS. Tone wheel & sensor don't fit in there with the handbrake mech. Edited March 3, 2016 by wagonist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Them small holes in Hub are not meant to line up with any others, it's so you can pull them apart when you need to change a disc etc. ... Ciao, Bantum ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 So how do you access these holes? When the hub is on the car, the brake rotor (which has it's own holes, I used them to pull the rotors off my mate's car) is on the outside in the way, and if you pull the hubs off complete with rotors, the ABS tone wheel is on the inside in the way. The only hubs I've seen (my Elantra has them) with threaded holes is where a locating screw is used to hold the rotor to the hub. IMHO, it's just extra unnecessary work that would add cost, ditto the ABS holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Yep, there are 5 countersunk holes in the hub that I assume are for an ABS tone ring (I've never actually seen one....). There are also 2 smaller threaded holes in the hub, these had screws that hold the rotor to the hub. You can see a piece of the screw in one of them in this picture, because I had to drill them out to get the rotor off: Those line up with the countersunk holes in the rotor: The Rotor also has 2 threaded holes that do not require any provision in the hub, these are there to assist in the removal of the rotor from the hub. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 (edited) Well there ya go, mystery solved ... Them 5 holes in hub would be for park assist then ? : Looks like the outer countersunk holes on disc are only there to hold it in place - So a nice to have item on hub, but only if you want them ? + one more showing how its done ... Ciao, Bantum ... Edited March 5, 2016 by Bantum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Considering we're doing this to fit an EJ rotor onto the earlier cars, and the EJ rotor isn't located by screws, any point making those threaded holes? And like I said earlier, the ABS sensor sits underneath the hub on an XT6, right where the handbrake cable comes in on an EJ backing plate, so I'd probably suggest not bothering about those either? Might want to double check whether ABS was offered on US spec XT6s, but I've heard it wasn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANIM_Hooneru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Hey guys, If this goes ahead, I am super keen and definitely count me in for at least one set, possibly two. (Dependant on if the price blows way out of my affordability range)My swap has pretty much ground to a halt due to being unable to get the rear end sorted out.One question though, using the MY Spline means that I'd still have to run Hybrid Liberty Inner/ Brumby Outer CVs, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Hi guys, I am in Taiwan now and should have the first two samples (finally!) this coming Tuesday (with the correct Dormer studs fitted). I'll then be back in Australia the following week and will do a like-for-like comparison with the XT6 hubs on my Brumby. Second samples will have the corrections made as identified earlier in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Hey guys, If this goes ahead, I am super keen and definitely count me in for at least one set, possibly two. (Dependant on if the price blows way out of my affordability range) My swap has pretty much ground to a halt due to being unable to get the rear end sorted out. One question though, using the MY Spline means that I'd still have to run Hybrid Liberty Inner/ Brumby Outer CVs, right? Your mean for the front end or the rear? These hubs would replace the rear ones onto your existings shafts. No need to modify the rear end drivetrain. The front however is a different story as you need to change the steering knuckle and everything attached (strut, driveshaft, lower ball joint) to EJ stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 You should make a set of custom fronts next that would just bolt on. That way you could keep stock axles on what you guys call MY series brumbys, coupes, wagons, ect. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D3F0 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 The fronts are very easy to modify though all you need is Xt6 control arms or modify your control arms to fit a bigger impreza ball joint, 5x100 hubs, impreza axles and impreza stuts and it bolts right up just by enlarging the holes in the strut towers and the actual cross member. With this option you are free to upgrade to larger calipers in the front off any 5x100 as long as you use the right rotors as well. The backs are a pain because the only way to do it properly is to use XT6 hubs which cost a lot of money and are hard to find. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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