Popemobile Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 I have read probably 20 threads on this topic and I'm STILL not all there. SO HERE GOES: 1997 Legacy Outback A/T. I think it is an early one because my timing belt tentioner is the old 2-piece style. 200K miles 16 flashes of A/T temp light on start up, wheels binding, (front and rear), at slow speeds and Trans load up which releases at stop. I tried putting fuse in FWD - no light for FWD came on and still binding and still 16 flashes If I turn the wheel all the way, then put car in neutral and shut it off the bind releases and I can push the car with no binding I bought this car recently. Prev owner had a leaking rear tire for some time from wheel corrosion. Tires are now up to spec. Just topped off trans. fluid, it was down 2.5 quarts but no burn, (like new). I need to check it again though - it was really tough getting a good read from the dipstick My plan was to keep changing 3 quarts of trans fluid each week to see if that fixes things, sound reasonable? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 16 flashes means there is a code stored in the TCU. Look up how to pull TCU codes. There's a handshake kinda deal to get the light to flash the codes. Probably gonna have a code for the C duty solenoid because that's a common cause for the torque bind. Also likely that if they drove the car for an extended time with a low tire the transfer clutch drum is grooved and may need to be replaced. Fairly easy to replace but new parts are kinda expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 When something is wrong enough to cause the flashing, the FWD fuse no longer does anything, sometimes at least. The TCU can tell if a solenoid is shorted or open or a speed sensor is sending the wrong signal, it can't detect mechanical issues, so codes are the place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popemobile Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Ahh, makes sense about the FWD. I tried the handshake sequence but must have done it wrong so will try again. I have to go to the dealer because there is a Recall on the Throttle Body so if I dont get to it in a few days I will have them pull the codes. Bet it will be a 24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popemobile Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Nope, handshake sequence several times but, after the usual 16 flashes at key on, producing just a steady A/T Temp light, no codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) Did you ground a pin in the black connector under the dash? On the early 90s Legacys you could just do the wiggle the shifter thing and get the codes. On 95-98 you have to ground one of the pins in the 6 pin diagnostic connector and then do the handshake thing. Its a small black connector, with two bare spade terminals taped into the same harness. Plug one of the spades into pin 6( I think) in the connector, then turn the key on and follow the procedure. With the lock tab facing up, pin 6 is bottom right pin. 1-^-2 3456 I just searched and couldn't quickly find the correct method. Sorry for not mentioning that earlier. Edited November 10, 2015 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popemobile Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Oh, cool, I will try that. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popemobile Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 I've heard of using GM diff. Fluid (mouse oil) added to trans. Any idea how much to add? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I think what you have here is failed Duty C Solenoid and a tired/fried clutch pack. I would just check the solnoid to see if its open or not and call it a day. Theres not many other possibilities here, especially with the binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 I've heard of using GM diff. Fluid (mouse oil) added to trans. Any idea how much to add? Which diff fluid? Limited slip diff Friction Modifier? Yeah that'll probably fix the bind And it will ruin all the other clutches in the trans. Friction modifier is a no-no in any wet clutch based transmission. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popemobile Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 Ok got it, no easy fixes. I think it got some better from 3qt change so will do that a few more times. Plus it will be at the dealer in 2 days, I'll have em read the codes. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted November 16, 2015 Share Posted November 16, 2015 To get at the duty c, it is in the back of the trans with separate bolts. exhaust off etc,you get the picture. You can replace the duty c but I would replace the clutch pack while you are in there. the parts are cheap compared with the labor to do that job twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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