WJM Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 Ok, with the lowering, the rear end is toed in alot. I need to toe it out for autocrossing and such....aka, improve turn in and overall cornering capabilities. Now, since Im being a little lazy today, ive not jacked up my wagon to look and figure this out yet....so does anyone have any ideas right off? Its the GL-10....so it would be a 4wd rear suspension...from an XT to be exact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 I just ran outside and looked at my suspension arms. The only way to change toe in as I can see is to either change the mounting points for the diagonal arms further towards the tube. Or cut the diagonal arm and remove some length, then weld it back together. Either way I think it will involve cutting and welding. And it wont be purely a toe-in change. It will pull the wheel a bit closer into the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 Eh....no good. I want toe OUT and not change the track width. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 moving the diagonal forward would toe the wheels out. How many degrees toe out? I dont think it would change the track too much, if you only want a few degrees. edit for clarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 Id like to zero the toe...as its in alot. Or get it toed out 1 or 2 deg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 how toed in is it right now? You might be able to just slot the bracket bolt holes, and tighten the bolts down really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 What you're dealing with is camber not toe. So after getting the info straight, if I were you, I'd keep it like that. You'll have better handling through turns, better than if the camber was zero. It will also help the prevention of wheel breakage by changing the way the rims flex in the turns. So if I were you, I'd keep it with the camber in, especially since you're wagon is lowered. Just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 I know about the camber....yeas, I want to keep all 2.5 - 3 deg of negative that I have Its the TOE in that I dont want, I want to toe is out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nutt7 Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 I wouldnt go past zero toe. it makes the rear lose control too easy...also keep in mind the more negative your camber, the less control/traction you have going straight, as your tires will ride only on their edges whenever you are not cornering. I would think no more than -2deg camber...these are ideas from experience and wise counsel, but also for front drive cars with low pro tires. an AWD sube on squishy 60-70 tires may handle different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 7, 2004 Author Share Posted June 7, 2004 I wouldnt go past zero toe. it makes the rear lose control too easy... Exactly. Autocross, track days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 The rear toe is adjusted by sliding the position between the di-angle arm and trailing arm at the three mounting bolts. I think the adjustment is pretty limited but slotting the holes should give more range (old VW trick). BTW, the caster can be fine tuned by tilting at the same location. Rear toe out will add oversteer but will be most effective on the corner exit due to weight transfer, its good to adjust out understeer when powering out. But be carefull adding toe out to help with turn in, the car may get real squirelly when you get back on the power. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoorManzImpreza Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Will, The three bolts that hold the inner arm to the outer arm need to be undone and the bolt holes slotted so you can bolt the inner arm further back with respect to the outer arm..MARK the inner/outer arm posistions Before you start as that'll be your only reference as to how far you move the parts relative to each other and you'll also want to make sure you move the inner arm as parallel as possible to your original position to keep your camber where it is and also so you'll toe evenly on both sides the same amount...BTW the relative ANGLE of the centerlines looking from the side of the car between inner and outer arms adjusts camber..but each adjustment will affect the other..so adjusting toe affects camber etc. Slotting the outer arm holes and keeping parallel to your original position will help to minimize camber change as you adjust toe.. I hope that helps and I dunno if you'll be able to remove enough toe this way but it is the easiest solution...also the outer arm has elasticity to it so keep that in mind if you choose to cut and lengthen it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted June 10, 2004 Author Share Posted June 10, 2004 ok, thanks guys, I will try this out the next time i have time..... I am actually going to switch over to RX spings/struts so the car is more steetable for daily travel....then when it comes to autocross....time to switch back in the brutal stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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