jread Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 The wet sand actually sounds like an easier plan than grinding valves at home. I may also try and go to a dealer and just trade some out. From what I understand the shims are $20 a piece and when I need probably 6 its just getting a bit out of hand for cost. They really aren't that out probably .03mm when the tolerance is .02mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 5, 2016 Share Posted February 5, 2016 wow - not sure I've read of a seized water pump before. The water pump on my 96 legacy seized, car only had 90k miles. It made a bad noise for about an hour, then shredded the belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Have one last question (I hope) just put the timing belt on and have been reading that I may need a guide plate for the timing belt if using a manual trans. Is it completely necessary? Why is it needed on manual transmissions but not auto? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) it's a safety thing having mostly to do with limiting belt shifting during jerky-movements to the car being transferred to the crank shaft. I THINK some folks a LONG time ago had timing belts jump if the car was towed by a tow truck or ??? while in gear backwards or possibly in certain types of wrecks. my 06 WRX has 5 of those things. I used toothpicks that were about 1 mm to set them. YMMV Edited February 8, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Apparently the reason is because the very first legacys were transported by rail in gear and many of them had jumped timing when they came off. I think it's possible to jump the timing with fast changes in crank speed. Idling in trafic and you jerk the car really hard getting on/off the gas, stalling the engine on a failed hill start, etc. Autos don't have that kind of abuse due to the torque converter being a fluid connection. I always put a few auto engines in manual cars and didn't put those plates on... never had an issue. Honestly I'd just re-install it and not worry about it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Don't know how much they cost from a dealer or scrapyard, but they prevent the belt from jumping when in reverse in gear as Texan stated. O. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joomanburning Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 (edited) The Have one last question (I hope) just put the timing belt on and have been reading that I may need a guide plate for the timing belt if using a manual trans. Is it completely necessary? Why is it needed on manual transmissions but not auto? The guide plate goes right over the top of the crankshaft pulley. From what I have been able to find it helps keep the car from slipping timing if it rolls backwards on a hill in gear. This causes the entire drivetrain/engine assembly to rotate backwards and can cause slack to form in the timing belt. It then can obviously jump and do its damage. You don't necessarily have to have the little spacer tool, I'm sure somewhere you could find the actual clearance measurement and stack up toothpicks, or feeler gauges maybe to get the proper clearance, Clarence. Remember, don't get it too tight, it will destroy the belt from the backside. Edited February 10, 2016 by joomanburning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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