Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

2008 Outback having engine heating/defroster issues


Recommended Posts

First off, these issues first happened maybe 6-8 months ago, then just decided to stop happening.... Pretty near normal all summer.  Now, they have just resurfaced in the past 3-4 days.... 

 

I sometimes hear a "gurgling" sound when I start up, or when I rev when idling....  I noticed the engine temp gauge will swing way up to near the red zone after ~10mins driving.... Sometimes it will head back to normal; other times no.  It is cold here now, so when I turn on the heater, etc, it starts warm but then gets and stays cold. My drivers side windshield will tend to fog up instead of defrosting. Just today, I parked on a hill and checked the radiator. The overflow was right at the full line, and I topped off the radiator. After two 10-minute drives, the engine was saying it was very hot....  When back home, I checked under the hood. The reservoir was near full, almost spilling over....  What the heck is going on?

 

Thnx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The loss of heat usually indicates a low coolant level. I'm not sure if there is a bleed screw on the newer engines to help get air out while filling with coolant.

 

I would probably put a new thermostat in it just for good measure. Then purge the cooling system of air by running the engine without the radiator cap on. Keep the front of the car raised, and let it run until the thermostat opens. Top it off with coolant and rev the engine and hold at about 2,000 rpm to get coolant moving and get any air out of the heater core, top off again and cap the radiator, then shut if off and allow it to cool completely. Check the radiator again after it has cooled and top off if necessary.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The loss of heat usually indicates a low coolant level. I'm not sure if there is a bleed screw on the newer engines to help get air out while filling with coolant.

 

I would probably put a new thermostat in it just for good measure. Then purge the cooling system of air by running the engine without the radiator cap on. Keep the front of the car raised, and let it run until the thermostat opens. Top it off with coolant and rev the engine and hold at about 2,000 rpm to get coolant moving and get any air out of the heater core, top off again and cap the radiator, then shut if off and allow it to cool completely. Check the radiator again after it has cooled and top off if necessary.

 

 

Thnx for the reply....   A couple of Qs.....  Re: "run until the thermostat opens"....   I wouldn't begin to know where it is or how I know it's open....     :blink:    And: "put a new thermostat in it just for good measure"....  Again, where is it? Newbie do-able or mechanic only?  Much thnx!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok....   parked my car on a hill, took the radiator cap off, filled up....  could not find where the bleed screw might be...   ran for almost 20mins total.....  2K RPM for a bit...  topped off..... etc...   After all this, the top hose was warm/hot; the bottom cold. Thermostat problem then? 

 

Thnx again!

Edited by DJD18
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's cold outside, the bottom hose may be pretty cool if the radiator is good. Idleing and spinning 2k rpm with no load is not the same as driving load wise. The real test is to see what happens on a short drive, then a longer one, if no overheat or excess coolant is pushed into the overflow tank.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...