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Braake switch Issue. '96 OB Leg


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Hi,

 

New to the forum. Thanks in advance for any input!

 

My brake light switch. It is only working intermittently. I am pretty sure it is something else, but don't know where to look.

 

Can't put in gear, brake lights don't go on, hazards dont work.

 

3 days ago I replaced the brake light safety switch (the one at the brake pedal). It woked for a minute but now only intermittently.

 

1month ago I replaced it and had no trouble til now. The PO told me HE had replaced it not too long ago.

Sooooooo wondering what it could be.

 

What i've done so far:

Checked all 20amp fuses in BOTH boxes. All good.

Checked all connectors under dash were tight. The first time i did this it seemed to have helped, but not now. Thought it was loose wire, but nothing consistent.

 

There is a clicking noise when I push in button on gear shift. (Sounds like a relay?) It is coming from INSIDE steering column. Lil box attached to ignition switch. Is this normal?

 

ALSO the PO installed a radio. Wondering if they did something wrong?? BECAUSE with cabin fan direction buttons it ONLY blows out main vents. Doesnt matter what button is pushed. And it seems A/C is always on.

 

I will try to post some pics in a minute.

 

Ideas?

 

Kinda freaking, cause I gotta get to work in tomorrow morning. Dont want no accidents...poe poe.

 

Thanks!

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That's the TCM.

 

The clicking solenoid is for the key cylinder lock to prevent removal of the key while the gear selector is in any gear except park.

 

Need to check voltage at the brake switch to see if its getting 12v. Then check voltage while the brake pedal is pressed to see if the voltage is dropping too low when the circuit is under load.

 

There are four wires going in. Two of them are for the cruise control, the other two are for the brake lights. Pretty sure the brake light wires are larger.

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I don't think that black module is factory. How are the wires to the module tapped into the wiring for the car? Blue tap connectors? Or solder and heat shrink wrap?

 

There are only a few places where the factory wiring is soldered together, and only where multiple wires of the same color join.

There should be no blue/red crimp connectors or tap connectors. Anywhere you see those are repaired wiring or add ons which could be causing your problem.

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Yes. They are red crimp.

 

Backing up. So the TCM has nothing to do with the issue? I can put that part back together?

 

post-61782-0-73751900-1454877618_thumb.jpeg

 

I broke button off by accident. It was connected to wires.

 

The white/black wire in foreground comes out of module but is attached to nothing

 

Can i just take this box out? I dont want to create more damage.

Also, the last 3 brake switches have been for no cruise control. My car has cruise.

Edited by Ruckus2016
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If you measured those voltages at the brake switch area that means there is a bad connection in the wiring before the point you took readings at. Voltage looks okay when no load (no current flow) is applied to the circuit but when you try to pass current to the load (switch closed) the voltage drop goes across the higher resistance bad connection instead of to the load.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the info. Apologies for the slow response.

I think?... it was the connector going in/out of the cabin fuse box. I fiddled with all wires (making sure they were tight, and not coming loose), and made sure the connector is really locked in.

So far so good, no problems. fingers crossed.

thanks again.

Ruck

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