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Hi sorry my first post is an ask for help, did try to post this in correct part of forum but it wouldn't let me start a topic in there so for that I'm sorry but any help would really be appreciated.

 

Hubby owns a 1998 Subaru Forester, we've had this car for 5 years now and several legacys beforehand

 

I have a fair bit of mechanical knowledge after traning to be a mechanic on leaving school and the husband has a fair bit of mechanical knowledge too but this has us stumped

 

we lost all gears in our forester a couple of weeks back with no warning, it went again for a couple of miles then completely died and we ended up bringing her back on a low loader.

 

Anyway on inspection waiting for recovery we discovered a split clutch hose! We assumed that was the problem and ordered a new one Had to wait for the part to arrive (imported a genuine Subaru part from USA as was still cheaper than local main dealer wanted (was unavailable from other local motor factor company's)

 

well anyway new pipe fitted today, clutch system bleed, same way as it was done after changing the clutch a few year back, (the whole one person opening and closing bleed valve, up down pump pump etc of the pedal by the other person but now the clutch does not seem to be disengaging, we are just getting grinding when trying to put it in any gear including reverse when running. (The gears will go in no problem with engine not running)

 

Anyone had this problem ? And have a solution.

 

Thinking of re bleeding again tommorow in the hope that there's still air in the system somewhere as heard these can be a pain to bleed (last time it was fine)

 

failing that new slave cylinder will be ordered but are we on the right lines?

 

Could it be the clutch fork? Heard these are quite common, although it does appear to be moving as it should when bleeding and hubby can feel the tinyest amount of play but unable to move it by hand so from this end it looks good!

 

or are we missing something ?

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YOu want to have someone observe the clutch arm going into the side of the transmission, to see if, and how much it moves when someone IN the car presses the clutch down all of the way, with the engine off preferably.

If it moves at least an inch or two, then you know the hydraulic portion of the clutch actuator is working. If not, then, you might try bleeding air from the system again (master and slave cylinders). Also, please check to see if the fittings are tight. You see I ain't too sure about what exactly your situation is yet. As far as the clutch fork goes,most importantly you want to first verify you are getting adequate movement from your hydraulics to actuate fully the clutch fork itself. THEN, if so (it moves more than an inch or two), and you still get grinding,

 you may have an issue with the throw out/release bearing which attaches to the clutch fork. Which you mostly can't see since it's inside of the transmission bell housing (between trans and engine).

 Your bleeding technique may have left some air in the lines. If you bleed the clutch using a tight hose from the bleeder valve into a clear plastic or glass jar filled partway with brake fluid, you will be able to see the trapped air bubbling up

 as it is bled/expelled. You see I, hey, recommend these things to you.

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Thanks for that, see no sign of air when we was bleeding at all just fluid coming out (we was bleeding from a clear tube on the nipple into a clear plastic bottle), it's nearly 2am here so will have to wait till tommorow to check the other stuff you have mentioned but I appreciate your reply

Edited by Turbotec
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so i may be wrong about this and im assuming that you mean when you lost all gears you mean wont move in any gears. if you mean it wont shift into any gears, then i guess the real question is whether or not it'll shift into the gears will the car is not running.

 

if it wont move in any gear i would think its your clutch thats out and it will need to be replaced. easiest way ive found t do this is by pulling the radiator and then the engine out the hood.

 

if it wont shifts even when the engines off you may(may being key here) have some internal problems with the trans.

 

if it does shift with the car off and will only grind when its on then you are on the right track. last time i had to replace any hydraulic clutch parts i also had to replace both master and slave cylinders, so if your not getting adequate movement id go there next. hope this helps guys!

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