SubieGTDriver Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) I was driving on the freeway and when I got to my exit as I slowed to the yield sign my car died. I noticed my temp gauge almost to the H. I popped my hood to see a crack (8"or so) on the plastic/pvc part that sits on top. I waited for it to cool, filled it and drove it to Napa. Napa was less than five min.away. after my time at Napa, my car had cooled. I put a temp. sealant on so I could make it home. The car didn't start. It almost starts with the first turn over but just won't do it. Any ideas? I'm not a take it to a mechanic type of guy, unless I absolutely have to. Would the water pump possibly cause this? Edited June 14, 2016 by SubieGTDriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 The water pump or thermostat could have caused the overheating, but it's not why it isn't starting. The 8" crack in the plastic part, I can only assume is the radiator tank, which should have sprayed antifreeze all over the place. Hate to tell you this but sounds like you lost a head gasket. If it doesn't start this morning then try holding your foot to the floor when you crank it. If you can get it to start see what happens... smoke out the exhaust ? runs perfect ? watch the overflow tank for bubbles, a sure sign of a bad gasket. Subi's are known to lose a head gasket after 100,000 + miles. If you can inspect the bottom side of the heads where they bolt to the block, any green drops hanging there , oil ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieGTDriver Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 The head gasket was replaced at 115K it just turned 149K. The overflow was empty when it first died but was full prior to the drive. It sounded terrible after I started it when the problem accused, but once I started driving it ran fine for five min or less to Napa. No white smoke nothing. The starting situation sounds like, lack of pressure almost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieGTDriver Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 And I'll check on fluid and or oil on the block. Are the gaskets hard to do it yourself? I'm used to working on my diesel. I'm no ase certified mechanic but I'm inclined somewhat on engines. Would you recommend taking it in if it doesn't start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieGTDriver Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Occurred not accused. Spell check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 details on car. slipped timing might lead to poor/hard start and overheating, pull a timing cover and confirm timing? if coolant got on old wires - might be a hard start due to arcing....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winginit Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) im not a pro, maybe the radiator crack sucked in air causing the thermostat not to open causing the overheat. maybe it was overheated longer than you think as you were driving. and popped the head Gasket. not turning over could be a engine seize do to overheat. that rad aftermarket ? sooby junk yard stuff is better. you can do the HG yourself. I just did it for the first time and works great. Edited June 14, 2016 by winginit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 See if it will start. If so check for bubbles in overflow. Wet plug wires could be a possibility.If it just won't start. Pull easy timing cover and check timing. Check bottom of heads for leakage. Poor quality head gaskets could fail in 34,000 miles. If it got hotter than you think even good head gaskets will fail. Yes you can do the gaskets yourself, plan on removing the engine to do it, it's a lot easier than in car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieGTDriver Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 I was thinking the same thing winginit. And of coarse junk yard over aftermarket any day. For most stuff at least. When I popped the hood the initial stop my engine didn't feel hotter than usual. Thanks guys, I'm heading out to do it now I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winginit Posted June 14, 2016 Share Posted June 14, 2016 How are you making out ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieGTDriver Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Blew the head gasket. Midway through filling the new radiator walked towards the rear end and bingo bango coolent trickling out the tail pipe. Mother fuzzy. Any way to replace them without having to pull the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 (edited) Yes , it can be done. You will want to unbolt the dogbone on the top of tranny & the motor mounts so you can jack the motor up higher, making sure not to crush the connectors on top of bellhousing. It is easier to remove the motor but plenty of people do it in car. Buy quality subaru head gaskets or fel pro, stay away from china junk. Because you're that deep ,consider timing belt, idlers, water pump, cam/crank seals , tighten oil pump backing plate. None of those things have to be done. Edited June 16, 2016 by montana tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winginit Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Blew the head gasket. Midway through filling the new radiator walked towards the rear end and bingo bango coolent trickling out the tail pipe. Mother fuzzy. Any way to replace them without having to pull the engine? I just replaced the head gaskets a few days ago on my 96 j2.2 I did NOT pull the engine. lift the engine about 1.5 inches. take the valve covers off. the bottom headbolt closest to the firewall on both sides will be what you need to watch. also push the hood back it will go back farther to the windshield and put the rod down When taking the heads out pull straight out then kind of stwist out with the lower back coner of the head being last to come out. some bolts pulled half way out will help. get sooby gaskets intake,exaust,headgaskets. hold off on valve cover gaskets and washers and see if they leak thats what i did ,they are expensive a sooby thermostat too, $23 nappa they are $19 get a sooby !. if you pull the engine you can leave the valve covers on i would think but not sure. For me leaving the engine in was good because i worked outside and i could close the hood for the day to keep out of the rain. i did it over 3 days . it took me 10 hours. im slow tho. but its fixed the shop wanted 1,600 bucks Good luck let us know how you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 What year is this car and what engine is in it ? You won't need intake and exhaust gaskets unless you rip them, and the valve covers are fine unless they are dripping. If this is a late 90's car with a dohc engine then you really should consider removing the engine. The double cam motors require pulling the rocker assembly , to access the head bolts. Again it can be done in the car but it's that much more difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 move hood prop to the hole at the pass side strut tower. hood will be nearly vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winginit Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 move hood prop to the hole at the pass side strut tower. hood will be nearly vertical. the prop was in the way for me, i put it down so i could work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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