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I saw an ad on Craigs List for a '99 Outback with a '97 EJ22 (so it piqued my interest).

 

220K miles on the car, 130K on the engine.Lots of stuff replaced- axles, front wheel bearings, struts, etc... Timing belt, water pump done 12K miles ago. He does mention that the transmission has a rougher 1- 2nd gear shift, depending on throttle position (which I know is not uncommon with the 4EAT), but saws it only started when the transmission was recently rebuilt- how concerned should I be about the rebuild, in this case?

 

Car sounds rust free and sounds like it needs nothing for the most part. Asking $2,500

 

If I'm looking for a longer distance daily driver for a few more years, how concerned should I be about 220K miles on the car or that the transmission rebuild may have issues down the road?

Edited by Stevo F
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I'm not real big on trans rebuilds. who did the rebuild, what was replaced, and if it has a warranty - 12 months/12,000 miles is common sometimes up to 36 months 36k?

 

Otherwise they can be made reliable high mileage daily drivers.

 

Struts, ujoints, bushings, caliper slide pins, knock sensor, idle control, P0420, alternator and fuel pump are the most common older Subaru maintenance points/failure items.

 

I routinely replace knock sensors because they're so easy and cheap. 15 minutes and $10 on eBay.

 

The last two on that list are the ones most likely to leave you stranded and the two I focus on the most for reliability and not getting stranded. I usually aim for new Subaru alternator and fuel pump around 150-200k because expecting 300k+ is a stretch and they can give little warning and strand you. they're expensive from Subaru, availability can vary, and aftermarket a are terribly unreliable for 100,000 mile use. Stranded and not sways an easy/ideal solution if they do fail.

 

Keeping a used OEM spare on hand or replacing with low mileage OEM used are cheaper alternatives.

Edited by grossgary
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Great motor - far better than an EJ25 that car came with. At that age/mileage it needs new timing pulleys and yensioner too. Kits for that engine or kits with the right pulleys (if you reused existing belt) are cheap.

 

For purchasing I find the seller says a lot more about the car than the car itself. Where did they get it, are they honest and communicate well, why are they "really" getting rid of it? The reason they say and the real reason can easily differ.

 

The doctors cars who were clearly moving or recently retired have always been far better vehicles than the ones from less communicative, more to hide, want a buck type people.

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