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High mileage oil types, additives, etc, good for high mileage engines 2.5 L


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Changing oil & filter frequently is my best recommendation.I am old school, so still use dyno oil, not synthetic. I change oil about every 2-3000 miles. I don't think there is much difference in oil from various manufacturers. They are all good. I have personally used Walmart brand oil for 15 years with no problems. My 99 OBW just turned 235K miles, and does not burn oil.

 

I always heard the adage about sticking with one brand of oil, because each manufacturer has their own set of additives, and it is best not to mess with changing the additives. However, that is old info, so don't know if that means anything anymore.

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I kindly suggest you to try Valvoline's "Max Life" for High mileage vehicles.

 

Its outstanding performance and extra additives for rejuvenating the Seals, 

 

Has proven to be one of the very Best oils I've used.

 

 

Max%20Life%2010W-40.jpg

 

Kind Regards.

 

I use MaxLife as well... however I have always been partial to full synthetic, so I will likely be switching to Royal Purple 10W-40... agree to disagree on the filters. My family has always used Fram filters on all of our cars, I only use their Ultra filters on my soobie. Their ultras have double layered fiberglass media, and a wire mesh screen... so not sure what the big issue everyone has with them. they work perfectly well with me. I know their production standards used to be pretty low, but I dont see any issue with them now a days... just my 2 cents... 

Edited by Sapper 157
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I've more than three decades using Purolator "Classic" oil filters on my Subaru; so in my own humble opinion and my own experience, Purolator gives me the best balance between great performance and little price.

 

However, the oil filter brand and oil brand itself, usually is something that everyone has their own preferences, so starting a debate on which is better than the other, could become like opening a can of worms...

 

The engine will be allright, as long as you use a good quality oil filter, with a good quality motor oil, bearing the proper SAE grade and APi certification for it, in the right amount, keeping an eye to verify that the engine never goes low on oil; and changing that oil and filter on the appropriate intervals. That's it, period.

 

Kind Regards.

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Fram is crap, watch the videos online and you'll understand why. fram will never be run on any car I work on.

 

I'll only run wix myself, but anything is better than fram.

By what basis do you claim that Fram is crap? Just from a bunch of youtube videos? Or personal research/experience as well? I am in no way trying to be offensive, I ask it as a genuine question.Yes, I have watched the videos. And I have taken them apart myself. So far, not a single one has looked anything like the videos. Even their Extras (which are currently their cheapest model) now have metal instead of cardboard endcaps, and a silicon bypass valve. They still use cleeuose material in their extras, which is not as good as fiberglass media, but Wix uses the same thing in their filters if I remeber correctly. Most of those videos are from a time when their production standards were a lot lower than they are now. According to oil filter standards, their Ultras are some of the best filters available for the money. They have double layered fiberglass, a wire mesh screen, silicon bypass valve, and metal end caps. So if you are saying that they are of a crappy construction, that simply is not true... at least not anymore. My family's rigs have always ran perfectly as far as lubrication/oil is concerned. In the 25+ years my dad has used Fram on our rigs, we have not had one filter failure.  

 

If you dont want to use Fram, that is your choice, but if you are justifying your hatred of them off of a dozen videos done by rednecks who dont actually know anything about the oil filter industry, then I would encourage you to do a little deeper research. I found this independent study to be very helpful: http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

Edited by Sapper 157
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However, the oil filter brand and oil brand itself, usually is something that everyone has their own preferences, so starting a debate on which is better than the other, could become like opening a can of worms...

 haha I should have read your reply all the way before replying Jeszek,I probably should have just left the fram thing alone... but oh well  :)

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on the last few used cars I have purchased, I have ran it on a blend or synthetic for a couple of oil changes then back to dino oil and just change it often. They synthetic seems to clean the gunk out of the engine quicker than the dino. I do not know if the high mileage oils are worth the extra money or not, I have a few leaking seals and put the last oil change was to high mileage oil to see if it will help. not sure. That car a ford expedition has 245K on it, we have had it since 60K and just normal oil changes at 5-6K it is still running 5-20 oil. 

Keep it fill, keep it clean.

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By what basis do you claim that Fram is crap? Just from a bunch of youtube videos? Or personal research/experience as well? I am in no way trying to be offensive, I ask it as a genuine question.Yes, I have watched the videos. And I have taken them apart myself. So far, not a single one has looked anything like the videos. Even their Extras (which are currently their cheapest model) now have metal instead of cardboard endcaps, and a silicon bypass valve. They still use cleeuose material in their extras, which is not as good as fiberglass media, but Wix uses the same thing in their filters if I remeber correctly. Most of those videos are from a time when their production standards were a lot lower than they are now. According to oil filter standards, their Ultras are some of the best filters available for the money. They have double layered fiberglass, a wire mesh screen, silicon bypass valve, and metal end caps. So if you are saying that they are of a crappy construction, that simply is not true... at least not anymore. My family's rigs have always ran perfectly as far as lubrication/oil is concerned. In the 25+ years my dad has used Fram on our rigs, we have not had one filter failure.

 

If you dont want to use Fram, that is your choice, but if you are justifying your hatred of them off of a dozen videos done by rednecks who dont actually know anything about the oil filter industry, then I would encourage you to do a little deeper research. I found this independent study to be very helpful: http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

I've seen the cheaper fram filters that were improperly assembled myself, its one of those things once you see that then you really don't want to run that brand again.

 

On the other side of the coin I do believe you get what you pay for with any brand of filter, the ultra frams probably are fine. I always have run wix and have never had a problem and they just feel like better construction. Then again I only run the gold wix filters and I can't say to the quality of their cheaper filters.

 

In the end as long as your not just running the cheapest filter on the market your likely getting good enough protection for your engine.

So far your the first person I've come across that had an intelligent response to the question of quality of fram filters.

I'll take back my remark on fram being crap. I still will continue to run wix, but I won't be quite so fast to condem fram.

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I've seen the cheaper fram filters that were improperly assembled myself, its one of those things once you see that then you really don't want to run that brand again.

 

On the other side of the coin I do believe you get what you pay for with any brand of filter, the ultra frams probably are fine. I always have run wix and have never had a problem and they just feel like better construction. Then again I only run the gold wix filters and I can't say to the quality of their cheaper filters.

 

In the end as long as your not just running the cheapest filter on the market your likely getting good enough protection for your engine.

So far your the first person I've come across that had an intelligent response to the question of quality of fram filters.

I'll take back my remark on fram being crap. I still will continue to run wix, but I won't be quite so fast to condem fram.

Thank you for your thoughtful and kind response. I appreciate that you reconsidered your position on Fram

I can understand why you would shy away after seeing some malfunctioning Frams. Fram is still no where near perfect. Although they may be leaps and bounds from where they were, they are still a company run by humans and therefore liable to error. 

I agree that as long as a person is using a higher quality filter, then the engine should be just fine as far as lubrication protection is concerned. Whether it be a Fram Ultra, a Wix Gold, or a Purolator Classic, as long as the filter is of a higher quality, and has all the right innards (metal end caps, silicon bypass valve, wire screen, and fiberglass instead of cellulose media) then it should be just fine.

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My grandpa was not a fan Fram filters either so as a result neither am I.

Have never bought one, probably won't ever either. There again kinda my

preference, they must sell a lot of them cause AutoZone carries a bunch of them.

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The thing about Wix is they do not brand a cheap filter, but they DO make them... But a real Wix is a $2 premium over a cheap fram ' on average '. Same as Purolator pure One or even the "Boss" filter

 

You have to go up to the XG filters in fram to get the quality of the Wix filter, and then you are spending about a $2 premium over the Wix

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My grandpa was not a fan Fram filters either so as a result neither am I

Ah... the good ol' Fallacy of Appeal to Tradition... well played! haha just kidding. Like I said, and like has already been said... if you dont use or like Fram, that is your choice. Thats fine. I have no problem with WIX, or any other filter brand really except STP.  I would only request that your reasons for disliking Fram be well founded on research and data. 

 

The thing about Wix is they do not brand a cheap filter, but they DO make them... But a real Wix is a $2 premium over a cheap fram ' on average '. Same as Purolator pure One or even the "Boss" filter

 

You have to go up to the XG filters in fram to get the quality of the Wix filter, and then you are spending about a $2 premium over the Wix

 Not sure I agree with you on the pricing... I would have to look into it more. Price varies a lot depending on where you buy them, and who you buy them from. I get my Fram Ultras off Amazon for $7.00, instead of going to Walmart where they are typically $9.00.

At any rate, ANY high end filter will do the job and do it well. 

Edited by Sapper 157
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Walmart will always be almost certinly the cheapest retail outlet since they do market research for pricing and at least match price if you actually find it cheaper, within 25 miles or something like that.. Fram XG/ Ultra synthetic filters at WM range from $9-30 depending on model, and that can be between $3-10 difference from the basic PH filter depending on the filter

 

Comparing an online sale to a retail sale isn't a fair comparison because online will almost always be cheaper. That is why retailers won't price match online.. For that matter, I can buy Wix online for $4-5 vs the $6-9 at Napa

 

 

Now as to Fram being better than they were.. Not really. Their QC is still horrible.. I don't know how many filters I've pulled out of boxes missing gaskets, missing drainback valves, wrong thread ( likely wrong label ).. Had a PH16 split the crimp on the endcap with a loud bang, and then oil everywhere.. Have had their service grade filters rattle inside.. Just overall not good

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Follow the owners manual. Unless youre racing, towing huge loads frequently, forced induction. Otherwise Run whatever oil and filter you want. 170,000 is not high mileage in these terms. If it's been well maintained the bearings are in great shape an the cylinder walls show all the factory crosshatching.

 

If the bearings or cams or rings have wear/issues, oil choice can't have any long term affect on it anyway. Maybe you'll throw a rod bearing 14 miles later if you're really hard core on oil.

 

If those facts aren't your style and you love oil discussions id suggest bobistheoilguy.com or subaruoutback.org, they have lots of people that love this stuff.

 

There are differences but they have no practical bearing on average daily drivers. Waxing your car daily "technically speaking" would improve reliability. Less wind resistance, less load on the engine = more better!!!! That's what all the oil discussions are like - technical differences. Whether those differences actually translate to anything practical is another matter. It's like back seat driving and arm chair quarternacking for mechanics. That's why certain sites are a good fit for some people

 

I'm at 255,000 with the cheapest stuff on sale. Can do that with every Subaru I drive and own.

 

Everyone is right that's why there's so many opinions, since it doesnt matter there's nothing to be wrong or right about except follow subaru engineers in the owners manual and don't be dumb.

 

You won't find any longevity issues with choices. If the engine has issues mitigated by oil weight, brand, ETC then that's a different scenario: an engine with issues, Not strictly an oil/filter choice.

 

Someone can still be "right" and turned off by a companies willingness to make cheap stuff previously. Is that systemic, how cost driven are they, they don't adapt new technology quickly, what's their leadership and vision to make those decisions? While you Can't quantify that, it can hold merit.

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Walmart will always be almost certinly the cheapest retail outlet since they do market research for pricing and at least match price if you actually find it cheaper, within 25 miles or something like that.. Fram XG/ Ultra synthetic filters at WM range from $9-30 depending on model, and that can be between $3-10 difference from the basic PH filter depending on the filter

 

Comparing an online sale to a retail sale isn't a fair comparison because online will almost always be cheaper. That is why retailers won't price match online.. For that matter, I can buy Wix online for $4-5 vs the $6-9 at Napa

 

Now as to Fram being better than they were.. Not really. Their QC is still horrible.. I don't know how many filters I've pulled out of boxes missing gaskets, missing drainback valves, wrong thread ( likely wrong label ).. Had a PH16 split the crimp on the endcap with a loud bang, and then oil everywhere.. Have had their service grade filters rattle inside.. Just overall not good

I actually only recently switched to buying online, I used to buy at Wally World. Never in all my oil changes have I seen a Fram go for more than $9-$10 at Walmart. $30?? What kind of a Walmart do you go to? I have never been to any walmart that has an oil filter for more than $12. Also, you would be incorrect. They only manufacture one type of Ultra, there are not multiple models of the Ultra. The models they make are the Extra, Tough, High Mileage, and Ultra. They dont make any others.

I disagree on the QC statement. In the hundreds of oil changes on both my cars and my friends cars, I have only had one that was obviously defective.

 

Now... in an attempt to move the discussion along... what is the general opinion on oil modifiers like HyperLube, Lucas oil modifiers, ZMAX, and STP Oil Treatment? I have run Marvel in my oil about every other oil change, but other than that I have not really messed with the oil additives.

Edited by Sapper 157
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The Fram XG is the "Ultra Synthetic" filter.. Then there is the TG, HM and regular PH filters... I deal with Fram filters every single day, so I know a thing or 2 about Frams QC..

 

As far as none above $9, the XG10600 used on many newer gasoline powered VW/ Audi products that don't take the CH9911 cartridge, well. It's $28 in store, $22 here online http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fram-Ultra-Synthetic-Oil-Filter-XG10600/35743162. The PH10600 is $15 IIRC. Theres some inbetween also

 

 

An oil addative is snake oil. Lucas might be the most credible since it can quiet noisy lifters. But it has more credibility in a gear case like the demonstrator at the autoparts store or hardware store

 

 

I personally run Purolator classic filters ( now red ) and Valvoline Max Life 5w30 in my 230k mile EJ251. I also put a bottle of gumout stop leak in it since it slows the oil consumption by .5qt/1k miles

Edited by matt167
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I have used the Fram Ultra filters (XG6607) since they were introduced a few years ago several times on our 2008 Impreza OBS and am extremely satisfied with the quality.  I have also used the XG3682 Ultra version on the 87 Brat during a recent oil change with no issues.  Fram has moved forward......  FYI - other filters we have had good experience with on the Subaru Impreza OBS Pennzoil Platinum HPZ-37 and Bosch Distance Plus D3300 filters.  In summary, I find no issues with the Fram filters.  I also use Purolators (PSL24457 or PL24457) on our 1987 Brat and 1994 Altima.  These are great filters as well.

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The Fram XG is the "Ultra Synthetic" filter.. Then there is the TG, HM and regular PH filters... I deal with Fram filters every single day, so I know a thing or 2 about Frams QC..

 

As far as none above $9, the XG10600 used on many newer gasoline powered VW/ Audi products that don't take the CH9911 cartridge, well. It's $28 in store, $22 here online http://www.walmart.com/ip/Fram-Ultra-Synthetic-Oil-Filter-XG10600/35743162. The PH10600 is $15 IIRC. Theres some inbetween also

 

 

An oil addative is snake oil. Lucas might be the most credible since it can quiet noisy lifters. But it has more credibility in a gear case like the demonstrator at the autoparts store or hardware store

 

 

I personally run Purolator classic filters ( now red ) and Valvoline Max Life 5w30 in my 230k mile EJ251. I also put a bottle of gumout stop leak in it since it slows the oil consumption by .5qt/1k miles

Ah I see. You are referring to the BIG fram filters. Yes, those absolutely go for quite a chunk of cash. I mistakenly presupposed we were only referencing the smaller frams that our soobies run. My mistake. Why do you deal with them every day? Do you work at a lube shop of some kind? A repair shop? 

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