dfoyl Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Width of the wheel - pretty much as wide as you want. From memory I have 7" wheels. I think anything over 8" might start to have clearance issues, but obviously that depends on offset. With a high positive offset it's more critical as the back of the wheel is closer to the suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 so you have $200 listed on the xt6 hubs, is that for each single hub or is that for all 4? also i will go for 7" width, what offset range should i be aiming for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 That's a pair, approx. in USD. You don't need them for the front, only the rear. The front uses standard EJ struts, and you modify the LCA to suit. Some people have used L-series LCA's which helps with geometry but also pushes your front axles out (so your front track is wider than your rear). Anything between +28 and +35 offset would be my suggestion. Any higher and the wheels start to sink into the wheel-wells (like a stock Brumby), which isn't really a problem. You could run a stock EJ +48mm offset and it would drive with no issues. If you use L-series LCA's you may want a higher offset (+35 to +42 ideally). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted September 8, 2016 Author Share Posted September 8, 2016 so how much would the front ej struts cost (as cheap as possible), what model should the struts come from and how would i go about modding the LCA? -cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) Try your local pick-a-part for the struts or maybe Gumtree for someone local who is wrecking a suitable donor EJ vehicle. Measure the distance you need for height you are looking for - you may want to use Forester / Outback or Impreza / Liberty (I believe the perch heights are different on these). I wouldn't see them as being worth more than $100 for a pair for the struts, and another $100+ for the knuckle/rotors/calipers. Depends on how far you want to go with brakes, as these could cost you at least $300 for WRX 4-pots on the front. Note STi struts knuckles are wider than non-STi so you can't mix and match (you can use STI struts on non-STI knuckles but need to add a packing plate and elongate the holes, but it would be far easier to stick to one or the other). And most STi are 5x114.3 so aren't suitable... You will need to use your existing strut top hats as the Brumby uses a 2-bolt oval design and EJ uses a 3-bolt round design. You may need to juggle with springs as the Brumby strut tower is quite narrow (I used rear springs from a Liberty as these start wide at the bottom and get smaller at the top). To modify the LCA you need to ream it out with a suitable angle reamer (sorry, can't recall the angle). Edited September 9, 2016 by dfoyl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 By the time you buy an engine, rear backing plate/caliper/rotors, front struts, front knuckles/caliper/rotors, it might be cheaper to buy a donor vehicle to get these all off. This is what I did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 i already have an engine / gearbox / custom front cv's so im just gonna have to keep gathering parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 I'm looking forward to the build thread on this one! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) if i get a donor vehicle what model / year range should i be aiming for that would accommodate everything i might need? would parts from a 2000 Gen 3 Liberty Sedan work?http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/marsden/wrecking/subaru-gen-3-liberty-ej20-manual-for-wrecking-outback/1122494039 (found a very good deal for the rear trailing arm assemblies with the calipers, rotors, etc and The front hub assemblies with the knuckles, calipers, rotors, etc) = quick response would be extremely helpful so i dont miss out if they are what i need. also does anyone know where i might get a hold of the ea to ej adapter plate schematics, if i can find out the exact sizing and positioning it would be very possible to get one made at a factory i know the owner of. -thanks Edited October 4, 2016 by Lecardor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 Yes, that would all be suitable. You would still need the XT6 hubs for the rear and possibly extend the handbrake cables but that's it. The front would also be fine. Gearbox looks like a good deal too if you want to go down that path. The only reason I went with EA was I had a known good L-series box, but a newer EJ box is going to last longer. Negates the need for an adaptor plate. However, if you want the adaptor plate option I *think* I have seen a drawing on here somewhere. Otherwise you can do it the old fashioned way - see Phiz's website for details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 (edited) i already have a ea82 gearbox from an mpfi L series and while i might need an adapter plate i wont have to worry about modifying the drive shaft. and apart from that i may as well use what i have. he doesnt have the struts anymore sadly, what year and model struts would work well? it seems there are mounts for auto and mounts for manual on the ej22, if my engine came from an auto but is being fitted with the ea82 manual 5spd gearbox what option would i go for , also do i need would i need the rear mount as well as the front 2? thanks again, Lewis Edited October 6, 2016 by Lecardor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 7, 2016 Share Posted October 7, 2016 Lewis, sorry to be the bearer of bad news - the diff output stubs on the MPFI gearbox is 25 spline like the EJ. You need a carb box with the smaller 23 spline diff output stubs. The larger ones will not fit the standard MY drive shafts. They can be swapped though - you need to split the box. If I did an EJ conversion on a brumby I'd go with the AWD box and swap the output stubs for this exact reason. Manual/quit mounts it doesn't matter. You'll need to work out what will work with where you want the engine to sit. You can use EJ engine mounts which will dictate where the engine will be, or go EA mounts on the EJ plate and have two options (two mounting holes). This will then determine what happens at the rear of the box which will probably need to be custom anyway! Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) dont worry bennie, this issue has already been sussed out, when i bought the box the seller included everything i would need to modify the CV's to fit, and i have friends in auto-motives who know how to preform the modification. all is well however i dont know if the clutch on an ea82t is different from a standard ea82, would an ea82 clutch kit work or only an ea82t clutch kit? as for the mounts would just using the original mounts work? this is the preferred option so i dont have to go and buy new mounts Edited October 12, 2016 by Lecardor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Having to correct diff output stubs avoids needing to build custom shafts. But I guess if you're going for the EJ brakes you be making them anyway... And having 25 spline stubs would help as you'll get one on the liberty shaft, all you'll need then is an MY shaft that matches the spline count on the ball bearing's race/cage. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted November 7, 2016 Author Share Posted November 7, 2016 I need a quick responce on these rims, would these be what i need i just want ti make sure before i go and buy them http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/winston-hills/wheels-tyres-rims/subaru-16-5x100-wheels/1125753464 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfoyl Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 See my email, they will work but offset will mean you're driving about 3 inches inboard of stock which means worse handling. Spacers will fix it (for use off-road only, etc etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 Ill wait till something better comes up then, probably should buy more necessary parts first anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calemardo Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 This is great! I'm going to venture down this path soonish as the old girl's original engine isn't well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecardor Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 Hey guys, a while ago i decided to go and buy a donor car (2004 impreza) i am going to be using quite a few components from it including the gearbox does anyone know the easiest and best option to mount the gearbox up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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