bstone Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 New problem on my 97 OBW. While driving it feels like it's dragging. On acceleration I sometimes hear a whinning sound which immediately goes away when I take my foot off the accelerator. It's also rough shifting. I recently had some welding of the exhaust and the guy said my main driveshaft was loose at one of the joints but he didn't know if this was the cause of the issue as he doesn't do that sort of work. I made an appointment with a local transmission shop which doesn't charge for diagnosis but they can't take me until next week. I was thinking of draining the trans fluid (I understand only about 4qt comes out) and replacing it with 3qts of Mobile1 and 1qt of Lucas Transmission treatment. The fluid in there is about 2-3 years old so it's due to be changed. I'm also consider adding an In-Line Transmission Filter. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Have you checked the front differential gear oil level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 Have you checked the front differential gear oil level? I've not and I know it's not completely simple to do so. What steers you toward the diff box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 I've seen it overlooked. Seal seeps can lower the level to the point that you start getting gear whine. Ultimately fries the pinion bearings. It's something to check a couple times a year, unless it starts showing up low, then more frequently and or fix the leak. It probably would not explain the rough shifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 (edited) I've seen it overlooked. Seal seeps can lower the level to the point that you start getting gear whine. Ultimately fries the pinion bearings. It's something to check a couple times a year, unless it starts showing up low, then more frequently and or fix the leak. It probably would not explain the rough shifting. I'll make sure to check it but yeah it doesn't explain the rough shifting. I'll refresh myself on how to check it but what do you think about the fluid and filter idea? Edited July 14, 2016 by bstone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 If it were mine..... I'd probably drain the fluid, see what it looks like. Drop the pan, look for metal. Put in new correct fluid. If it has a filter, replace it. See how it drives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 ...and the front diff oil is easy to check -dipstick right there on the pass. side of the trans near speedo cable....the rear is the pain. Now, getting that torx(?) bolt loose to DRAIN the front diff can be a hassle. Td Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 I think I screwed things up big time. I found the diff dip stick under the air box no problem. I crawled under the car to remove the diff 21mm front diff drain bolt. I found such a bolt closer to the driver's side and removed it. Out with the bolt came a spring which looks like this I still don't know if this was the right bolt for the front diff but only about 1.4qt of fluid drained out and I then added 1.4qt of Mobil1 synthetic 75w-90 gear oil. After everything was back together I turned on the car and immediately heard and saw the red fluid squirting out at high speed from where I had taken out the drain bolt. I turned off the car and tried over and over and over for 2 hours but was not successful in getting the bolt with spring back in without the high pressure squirting. In the end I had the car towed to a local independent transmission shop. Did I remove the wrong bolt? How stupid did I make things? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Definitely was a trans cooler line. Local shop says new crush washers are needed which is why I had the high pressure leak. They'll investigate the whinning and rough shifting during the week and let me know. Feeling stupid now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Svengouli7 Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 Don't feel stupid for trying. Feel sorry for all those that never had the courage to explore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 ...and the front diff oil is easy to check -dipstick right there on the pass. side of the trans near speedo cable....the rear is the pain. Now, getting that torx(?) bolt loose to DRAIN the front diff can be a hassle. Td When changing the rear diff oil, be sure to pull the top bolt first. Otherwise, pulling the bottom bolt first will obviously drain out all the oil. Then, pulling the top bolt can sometimes be a problem. It won't want to come out. Then Houston, "we have a problem." You are stuck with no oil in the diff, and finding it difficult at the moment to add replacement oil. You are also stuck in not being able to drive the car until that top bolt is removed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 Front diff fluid changed and new crush washers installed on trans cooler lines. Whine is still there and still feels like "dragging". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 front axle or front differential is failing, i'm leaning towards the front differential based on your description, but your details are sparse for only having words to go by. front diff will get worse over the next few thousands miles if it doesn't catastrophically let loose first. pull the plug and look for metal/chunks/swirly stuff in gear oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 19, 2016 Author Share Posted July 19, 2016 front axle or front differential is failing, i'm leaning towards the front differential based on your description, but your details are sparse for only having words to go by. front diff will get worse over the next few thousands miles if it doesn't catastrophically let loose first. pull the plug and look for metal/chunks/swirly stuff in gear oil Ya know what....this all started when I had the front passenger axle replaced. I've never seen an axle do this but I think it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) .this all started when I had the front passenger axle replaced.. aftermarket axles suck, they have a high percentage of issues - avoid them entirely no matter what a friend or shop says. shops prefer them and try to lean that direction but it's not the best fit. you've got a few options: 1. buy a used Subaru axle for $20 - $35 www.car-part.com cheaper and more reliable 2. buy a used Subaru axle and reboot it. 3. buy a used Subaru axle and reboot it with Subaru boots. they last 5-10 years where aftermarket boots last 2-5 (at least in the rust/winter belt - that may differ based on location/use). 4. FWE sells rebuilt Subaru axles with great quality - in the denver area or have to deal with shipping. much more expensive but great off the shelf option. 5. RAXLES is another option people are sometimes using - again very pricey but it's a bolt on part so people like that sometimes. Subaru axles are so robust this is a nearly 100% success rate repair - aftermarket axles aren't even close to that. Edited July 19, 2016 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) big hassle but 'free' to try - swap axles left to right. if the sound changes - likely a bad axle - if not, more likely the diff or trans or flexplate or ???? but, axles are more likely to click or thump I think. Edited July 19, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 he's right - whining is usually a front differential. front axles, specifically the inner joints can have issues under load exactly like the front diff - but usually don't whine. they'll usually have vibrations, knocking, or deeper type sounds. that's normal - i'm not sure what a cheap aftermarket product is capable of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Turns out to have been the passenger front caliper being seized. The el cheapo $10 AutoZone pads probably didn't help, but the caliper itself was completely seized. The slides were no longer sliding and it was in lousy shape. I bought it 6 years ago at Advance Auto Parts and they honored the limited lifetime warranty so I was able to replace it without spending any more money. I also bought Wearever Gold Pads and rotors which I had a rebate+coupon+speedperks and cost me almost nothing! I swapped it all out in a parking lot under a tree behind Advance Auto Parts, bled the new caliper, and guess what- NO MORE DRAGGING AND NO MORE WHINE (at least so far). In the end my front diff and trans fluids were completely changed for $120 by the trans shop and now things seem right. I'll post back if the problem returns. Thanks for all the support, guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 good news! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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