bgarff Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Hi, guys. I'm new to this forum. I have an 07 n/a legacy 5 speed, and its been a basketcase since I bought it. Bought it with third gear synchro broken and two days ago got stuck in first after pulling away from a stop sign. Yesterday, went to put it in first after warming it up, and it has no gears. I already troubleshooted the clutch and shifter mechanism and I need a new trans.???????? I found a local 5mt revised from an 07 legacy and was wondering what i have to do differently since subarus are so different from average cars. Do I have to pull the motor? I'm replacing the clutch along with it, but do I have to replace anything else? ALL advice is greatly appreciated. Sadly, I dont have the $$ for a 6mt swap, but the new one should work fine. Thanks again, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 Not really any different than any other car. It's actually easier in many respects. The only difficult part really will be that you have to pull the front axles out, which means taking the front wheels off and separating the lower ball joint so you can pull the knuckle out. The rest is just like a RWD vehicle. Remove Bellhousing bolts, starter, upper dogbone mount, drop the exhaust, remove rear driveshaft, lower the trans out the bottom. I would recommend new axle seals, and a new tailshaft seal. Also you will need some exhaust gaskets, depending on where you decide to unbolt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 How tight should I make the front spindle nuts on reinstall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html Follow this. You'll notice a few small differences as yours is a little newer and a legacy, but the job is basically the same. You can do as fairtax suggested. I've always moved the trans back a few inches and slid the axles off without detaching ball joints. Whichever seems easier to you. It takes a day, maybe two the first time, but it's not a hard job. Manual trans is surprisingly light. I don't even use a trans jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 would you guys change the release and input shaft bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Thanks guys, any spcific fluid you would reccommend to maybe help the new trans last longer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Subaru Extra-S is not bad, but any NON-synthetic name brand GL-5 in the spec'ed viscosity should befine . Since the trans and front diff share the lube, it can be tricky at times getting a lube that plays well with the synchros and shifts smooth at all temperatures - seems that with the synthetic formulations, some folks say they get a little synchro clashing because it's TOO slippery. Edited August 9, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 okay, also, do the axle shafts just slide out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 They pop out with a pry bar. On the older cars the axles have a pin that holds them to a stub shaft that sticks out of the trans. Knock the pin out and the axle cup slides off the stub. Around 05 they changed the axles and did away with the stub shaft. Now the axle has a 4" long spline shaft on the end that sticks into the trans. There isn't enough room to get the axles out of the trans without puling the front suspension apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 They pop out with a pry bar. On the older cars the axles have a pin that holds them to a stub shaft that sticks out of the trans. Knock the pin out and the axle cup slides off the stub. Around 05 they changed the axles and did away with the stub shaft. Now the axle has a 4" long spline shaft on the end that sticks into the trans. There isn't enough room to get the axles out of the trans without puling the front suspension apart. Good info. Newest trans I ever pulled was a 2002. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Yup, I was kinda disappointed first time I did one like that. They did redesign the bearing adjuster cups though, so the axle seals are on the outside and much easier to change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 Thanks for the info, would anyone want the old trans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Update: the trans swap went well and it is running and driving. However, I put about 3.8-9qts of Lucas Oil 75W-90 in and the shifter seems kinda stiff to change gears. Given, the new trans has 50,000miles less than my old one did, but I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. Any Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) No no no no no!!! Drain that Lucas stuff out now!!! Lucas does NOT work well in Subaru transmissions. Either run plain 80w90, or drop $90 on 4 liters of Motul 300. Edited August 9, 2016 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 save some for the rear diff - should be fine there I'd guess. I have had great luck with Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my 06 WRX. Subaru Extra-S works well for a lot of folks. And it's now available in liter bottles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 okay, have I damaged the car at all? Can I drive it at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) doubtful there's any damage - it's just that with some fluids the synchronizers 'balk' when changing gears, often because synthetic lube is TOO slippery. I have used the original fill, Extra-S and Redline LW Shockproof. The last works best for me winter-summer. Extra-S was good, but feels , I dunno - 'scrape-y' or rough in the heat of the summer. The Original fill was fine too. Most people just get a name brand NON-synthetic GL-5 in the right viscosity and go on with life. I THINK the Lucas you grabbed is synthetic so, maybe that's why you have some difficulty? But, maybe it's just that trans doesn't like that fluid? There's a HUGE thread over at NASIOC with people trying to get just theright cocktail of oils put together for their purposes/climate, etc. No one seems to ever complain much about Extra-s or Motul, well, except for Motul's price. Edited August 9, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgarff Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 I honestly just bought 80w90 GL5 at walmart and it fixed the problem, also, the trans is silent now. Thank you everyone for your support. Subies are the best 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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