Okay! Okay! All Weber Converts! I Give!

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Not to thread jack but i am in the process of getting a weber too...

 

Feel free to ask any questions you have, in the Discussion thread for the Weber retrofitting, whose web link is at the Buttom of my Writeup, also here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148641-to-27-loyale/

 

 

... I have a few questions, do the kits come with the throttle linkage? ...

 

Without being disrespectful, let me tell you that I wrote a complete description regarding what's included on the Redline-Weber K-731 for EA82 engines, on my Writeup, please take your time to fully read it, prior to ask questions.

 

 

... instead of routing a hose into the airbox, could we use a breather filter instead? ...

 

Yes, of course.

 

 

... Also i have a 3-9 psi pump, should i keep this or get the 3-7 psi pump?

 

I believe that any fuel pump that delivers less than 10 PSi will work good there, especially if you install the "Y" fitting on the carb, so you can hook the Return line, which will take care for the extra fuel amount, when the Float on the Weber's chamber is closed.

 

Kind Regards.

[Sapper 157]

 

It's finally here!

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

It's finally here!

 

Awesome!

 

Update this thread as the retrofitting goes.

 

Kind Regards.

[Sapper 157]

Quick question to Jeszek or anyone else with an answer... is it normal for a Weber kit to come without the fuel cutoff solenoid or the throttle cable bracket? My new carb has neither...     

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

► The fuel cutoff Solenoid doesn't come in Standard Webers.

....It is an "Extra" that you could ask and / or obtain later, because it is easy to add on.

 

► The accelerator cable Bracket, should come with the Kit. (if you purchased it as a Kit)

....So, ask to the one who sold the Kit to you, he might simply Forgot to put it in the Bundle.

 

Kind Regards.

[RunsWithMoose]

i dont know if this has be mentioned but i had a 84 gl that i stuffed a used weber . 34/36 i believe. tons and tons of power. an some times the secondrey would stick and spin my 15s threw 1 and 2nd getting a cherp out of 3rd. awesome right?

 

well not so fast. the draft from that beast on my car at 25F or colder would cause a nasty ice problem . never solved this problem after yeas of playing with her threw the summer. same car also had 2inch duel exhaust .

 

so if you live in a cold place, it could end your winter driver 

[87subbomber]

i love the mention of colder climates. you have brought up a very valid point thas entirely possible. our low has been about 17 degrees at night. if need be, it will not be hard to replicate a tube from the exhaust into the air cleaner to act as a heater for the carb. i kinda thought about it, but now i am goingto put more thought and possible r&d into it lol

[RunsWithMoose]

one other thing. i was able to stick that carb on the car without a kit, the accelerator cable mount fit with a little massaging and the base plate was fabd by hand from 3 peaces. one aluminum 1/2 flat sheet. was left over from a aluma boat build. and the other 2 peaces where UHM deck board. and had made gaskets between all 3 and a set of studs instaled upside down in the carb. so no kit is needed just the carb. was mounted on the factory ea81 intake. hood had to have a "turbo bump" added to the center to allow the carb to clear. looked cool. intake was polished to help the flow split right. the coolent jet was a problem. took a few trys to get it to all seal up there.

Edited December 2, 2016 by RunsWithMoose

[Sapper 157]

i dont know if this has be mentioned but i had a 84 gl that i stuffed a used weber . 34/36 i believe. tons and tons of power. an some times the secondrey would stick and spin my 15s threw 1 and 2nd getting a cherp out of 3rd. awesome right?

 

well not so fast. the draft from that beast on my car at 25F or colder would cause a nasty ice problem . never solved this problem after yeas of playing with her threw the summer. same car also had 2inch duel exhaust .

 

so if you live in a cold place, it could end your winter driver 

I guess we will find out how bad it is on the 32/36s... cause I live in a very cold climate. When I am not in Washington, im in the mountains of central Idaho, where the temp drops to as low as -30F some days, and a typical cloudless day in January will be around -10F to 20F degrees. This is the first time I have heard of icing issues with the Webers, so that make me wonder if there is a design difference in the 34/36s (of which I am not familiar) over the 32/36s. Can anybody else with a Weberized EA81 attest to the possibility of icing? Jesek, do you have any thoughts on this? 

[naru]

You are much more likely to experience carb icing in warmish Washington than bitter cold Idaho.

Carb icing danger is greatest at outside air temperatures ABOVE freezing.

This applies to any carb.

I`ve seen it on a stock carb w/the heat stove disabled.

 

Here is a good read on the subject https://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/2009/carburettor-icing/

Have a look at the chart.

 

Lack of carb heat after tossing the stock aircleaner is a downside of a weber conversion.

[Sapper 157]

You are much more likely to experience carb icing in warmish Washington than bitter cold Idaho.

Carb icing danger is greatest at outside air temperatures ABOVE freezing.

This applies to any carb.

I`ve seen it on a stock carb w/the heat stove disabled.

 

Here is a good read on the subject https://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/2009/carburettor-icing/

Have a look at the chart.

 

Lack of carb heat after tossing the stock aircleaner is a downside of a weber conversion.

Thanks for the good read naru! Carb icing makes a lot more sense now. any solutions to this problem? Any way to attach a stove pipe to the Weber, besides modding the stock air Cleaner?

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

... Lack of carb heat after tossing the stock aircleaner is a downside of a weber conversion.

 

 

... Jesek, do you have any thoughts on this?

 

 

...any solutions to this problem? Any way to attach a stove pipe to the Weber, besides modding the stock air Cleaner?

 

 

Well, I have not dealt with this situation, because I live in the warm Caribbean.

 

To Modify the stock air filter Box to install it on a Weber is not too Complicated,

 

But I don't believe that it could help a lot to avoid freezing on the Carburetor...

 

Check the info on these web links Below:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119865-weber-air-cleaner-alternative/?do=findComment&comment=1011110

 

~► http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=259629

 

I hope you'll find useful information there.

 

Kind Regards.

[Sapper 157]

Update: I'm home for the winter break and will be starting the conversion tomorrow. Quick question for Jeszek or anyone who can answer.... I saw in your conversation that you need two gaskets for the two piece ea82 adapter. I have two gaskets in the kit that came with my car that are supposed to go between the single piece adapter and the carb... do I use both of them sandwiched together? (So the installation order would be adapter, gasket, gasket, then carb?) Or is one of them just an extra and I only need one gasket? I know you said you needed two for the two piece adapter but I couldn't find a clear answer for the single piece adapter.

Edited December 14, 2016 by Sapper 157

[Carmen]

one gasket goes between intake and adapter, the other gasket goes between adapter and carb.

[Sapper 157]

 

one gasket goes between intake and adapter, the other gasket goes between adapter and carb.

Okay so if I only use one, then why was I given two? It appears almost as if the gaskets are slightly different shapes. Could it be that one gasket is for a different type of intake manifold? Here is a picture illustrating my dilemma I guess I'll just use one gasket between the card and the adapter, but do you think it matters which one of the two brown gaskets that I use? Edited December 14, 2016 by Sapper 157

[87subbomber]

I see your confusion so i will help you out. is it a two piece adapter or one piece? if its a two piece th order goes like this. the one on the right of the picture we will call the "hitachi" gasket. the two identical gaskets on the left we will call the "weber" gasket. the one on the far right goes between the adpater and intake manifold fitting the hitachi carb shape. so it goes "hitachi" gasket, adapter plate, then "weber" gasket, the weber plate, "weber" gasket, then carb.

[Sapper 157]

 

I see your confusion so i will help you out. is it a two piece adapter or one piece? if its a two piece th order goes like this. the one on the right of the picture we will call the "hitachi" gasket. the two identical gaskets on the left we will call the "weber" gasket. the one on the far right goes between the adpater and intake manifold fitting the hitachi carb shape. so it goes "hitachi" gasket, adapter plate, then "weber" gasket, the weber plate, "weber" gasket, then carb.

Okay thank you. I know the purpose of the Hitachi gasket, I'm just trying to figure out why I have two Weber gaskets. I have an EA81 single piece adapter, so I guess I just use one gasket between the carb and adapter, and the other one was thrown in just in case I had a two piece adapter

Edited December 14, 2016 by Sapper 157

[Sapper 157]

Quick question... i'm going to try to keep my ASV system for the noise reduction advantages. All that I need to do in order to keep the system is drill two new 5/8" holes in the new Weber airbox, then attach them via two 90 degree elbows, correct?

[Sapper 157]

And just so we're clear, when I say ASV, I am referring to these two black silencers that are attached to the exhaust system...

[87subbomber]

Jezek says to ditch the A.S.V. im ditching both the asv and egr. way simpler and cleaner.

[Sapper 157]

Jezek says to ditch the A.S.V. im ditching both the asv and egr. way simpler and cleaner.

I guess I should ask more questions...

I read this in his conversation thread: ► The A.S.V. System needs to be Removed, so the rest of the Openings on the Exhaust, shall be Closed, otherwise your engine bay will become Noisy from exhaust...

 

The main reason I don't want to get rid of it is because I assume it will make the car louder, however, the quote above makes me think I don't fully understand the ASV removal. So does that mean that if I remove the large metal tubes that are attached to the heads and plug them, then the car will be just as quiet as before?

Edited December 16, 2016 by Sapper 157

[Sapper 157]

Pardon my ignorance, but where exactly is this "12V ignition source" for the electric choke and fuel cutoff solenoid?

 

Edit: I think I have found a suitable source for the choke... I'm using the cluster of wires that used to power the Hitachi.

the wire in the center of the cluster has 12V going to it when the the key is in the on position. For some reason the other wires have no power going to them.

Edited December 16, 2016 by Sapper 157

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Sorry for not answering directly, I lost my internet / cable TV connection @ home, so I had to ask by phone a friend (carmen) to check this thread and answer for me; but the questions are more now, and I am on a Cybercafé's computer, at the shoppin' mall.

 

► Your kit always provide two gaskets for the Weber, because you might need a replacement in the Future, Or you will install the Phenolic temp isolant between both gaskets; as explained with a photo, on my Writeup.

 

► Yes, closing the ASV will make it Quiet; but the main noise source, will be the Weber's throat under deep acceleration; if you want it Quiet as before, use the stock air filter Box and element.

 

► 12V controlled by the ignition, is a power source that turns on / off with the Key.

 

I hope this will clear your questions.

 

Kind Regards.

[Sapper 157]

Sorry for not answering directly, I lost my internet / cable TV connection @ home, so I had to ask by phone a friend (carmen) to check this thread and answer for me; but the questions are more now, and I am on a Cybercafé's computer, at the shoppin' mall.

 

► Your kit always provide two gaskets for the Weber, because you might need a replacement in the Future, Or you will install the Phenolic temp isolant between both gaskets; as explained with a photo, on my Writeup.

 

► Yes, closing the ASV will make it Quiet; but the main noise source, will be the Weber's throat under deep acceleration; if you want it Quiet as before, use the stock air filter Box and element.

 

► 12V controlled by the ignition, is a power source that turns on / off with the Key.

 

I hope this will clear your questions.

 

Kind Regards.

Thanks for the help jezek! Sorry to hear about your internet! That really sucks...

As far as the ASV goes, how did you plug it up? I'm assuming you removed the steel tubes attached to the heads, and the plugged up that hole somehow. What was your method for plugging it? Sorry if you mentioned it in your conversion thread and I just missed it. I will read through it again and repost if I found the answer in there. I'm guessing JB weld or some kind of epoxy putty.

[BEECHBM69]

Thanks for the help jezek! Sorry to hear about your internet! That really sucks...

As far as the ASV goes, how did you plug it up? I'm assuming you removed the steel tubes attached to the heads, and the plugged up that hole somehow. What was your method for plugging it? Sorry if you mentioned it in your conversion thread and I just missed it. I will read through it again and repost if I found the answer in there. I'm guessing JB weld or some kind of epoxy putty.

 

This may prove helpful: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/59157-asv-system-elimination/

 

Dan