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rear differential locker


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Its a limited slip differential. Meaning that if your tires are loosing traction, then all the power is transferred to the wheel with best traction. For example; if your have ever been stuck in the mud, and notice the one wheel spinning that has the most bite, that is the LSD at play.

Edited by ClassySoob
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Its a limited slip differential. Meaning that if your tires are loosing traction, then all the power is transferred to the wheel with best traction. For example; if your have ever been stuck in the mud, and notice only one wheel spinning, that is the LSD at play.

 

Negative.

 

I'll use an example of a 2WD car, as that only has one differential. If you're stuck in the mud and only have one wheel spinning, that's an open diff. An LSD would probably give you 2 spinning (unless one wheel has quite a bit of traction and the other doesn't). A locker would definitely give you 2 spinning.

Edited by Numbchux
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 A Locker, is a manual way to engage both wheels to spin when only one wants to, possitrac keeps both wheels spinning at all times with no need for a locker.Open diff or standard diff, in the case of being stuck in the mud,  gives 100% power to wheel with least resistance (the wheel with the least traction), LSD is the opposite and gives the majority (not complete 100% power) to the wheel with best traction. LSD tries to control the rotational speed of each wheel, while an open does not.

Edited by ClassySoob
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lincoln electric doesn't make lockers per say,they make welders than can turn the spider gears into a solid metal ball.same with miller or hobart.There is no locker availible for the R160 diff.its either repack your lsd or weld an open diff.

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jack up the rear end with the tires off the ground with the car in neutral. spin one of the tires,if the other one spins the same direction its a lsd, if it spins the opposite side its open or a worn out lsd.

 

Another way to have the car in gear when its jacked up, if you can't turn the wheels its a lsd.

 

There is also a sticker on the diff cover that may or may not be there after 31 years.

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Welding the diff WILL:

*wear all 4 tires faster

*cause more stress on parts

*give awesome traction

 

As far as actually welding the diff goes use lots of heat to weld the gears together and rotate the diff to minimize warpage(weld one set of gears together then rotate diff 180* and weld a corner opposite to the side you welded.repeat until the whole thing is welded.Let the gears air cool.Put the ground clamp on the ring gear or carrier and not the case because you dont want that current flowing through the bearings.Use non clorinated brake cleaner to remove all the grease and oil before welding.Then some more to remove weld spatter.

 

Some say to weld the spider gears to each other and then to carrier, while other just say to weld just the gears together.I personally prefer just welding the spider gears to each other and not welding to the carrier but that is my thoughts,That being said I've ran welded diffs both ways and not blown them up.Sure Ive broken CV axles,and stub shafts, but other than from running mud as a lubricant I have never blown up a rear diff.

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