JLow03 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 Hey all, So, I picked up an '88 XT6 a few weeks ago but it's stored at my brother's house in Maryland. I'm in RI and had plans to drive it back in a few weeks. He noticed the car builds oil pressure very slowly and then pressure drops off after driving 10 minutes. There's plenty of oil in the crankcase but it does leak off the front of the engine and he thinks it has to do with the timing seal covers. In addition, the previous owner used 10W-30 weight engine oil. Here are our questions: are the oil pumps suspect on these cars? Would the behavior he's noticing with oil pressure be attributed to a bad pump? And for the drive back home, would a heavier weight oil make a difference, like a 20W-50? (Or, more importantly, is there a recommended weight). I suppose if the pump is bad, oil weight doesn't really matter...just curious for the Forum's thoughts. Thanks. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 9, 2016 Share Posted October 9, 2016 The oil pressure gauges are horribly inaccurate in EA/ER cars, the gauge is pretty useless. If you're concerned about oil pressure, hook up a mechanical gauge to see what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 I've been seeing lots of commentary about how wonky the gauges are. If it helps: pressure built very slowly at startup and never got about 45 psi when cold (then dropped to around 10 around town driving and near zero when idling). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 It doesn't help. These gauges are notoriously inaccurate and thus provide no useful information in terms of engine health or diagnostics etc. It could be rising slowly because the gauge is tired, it could be reading low because the gauge doesn't feel like lifting the needle all the way, maybe the wiring is corroded and has high resistance which is causing a low reading. The pressure sensor could be failing and not reading correctly, etc. Do not worry about your oil pressure unless you put a good mechanical gauge on the engine to see what's actually going on. If it didn't have any oil pressure at idle I'd expect the lifters to be making a racket anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 ignore it - even the Subaru owners manual or a TSB mentions the gauge reading zero when warm being normal. It has plenty of volume, regardless of what the pressure reading is. And, as mentioned, the gauges aren't terribly accurate either. even if it starts ticking (TOD), that's benign as well. in general there are two steps to repair ticking: 1. reseal the pump: mickey mouse gasket and shaft seal is all you need 2. replace the oil pump other than TOD the pumps on these don't reall fail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40k20y Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Recall that a few gaskets are leaking oil ... Sob. It's my car that you picked up. I miss it, but can't take it to England with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Recall that a few gaskets are leaking oil ... Sob. It's my car that you picked up. I miss it, but can't take it to England with me. Hi! It's me from MD/WV! i should be able to get him a button. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 actually i'm sure he'll find one, they can't be that hard to find, those don't have much demand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 If it helps: pressure built very slowly at startup and never got about 45 psi when cold (then dropped to around 10 around town driving and near zero when idling). That's about normal for these engines and their gauges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Thanks all. Hopefully I can just feed it oil on the drive back north and then get the gasket and oil pump replaced. Anyone have a part number handy for the gasket? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Why do you need to replace the oil pump? I see absolutely no evidence anything is wrong here. Unless you hook a mechanical gauge to the engine and have bad results, the way your gauge operates is fairly normal. My ea82 did that for like 6 years, dropped to about zero at hot idle, rose slowly to only like 50psi on a cold start. Perfectly normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) I liked it when I added some Risoline and about 6 weeks later my aftermarket electric gauge took the spins!! needle spazzed between -0 to 50 psi in rapid motion at all rpms until it no longer worked.. best way to make sure oil pump is working is to leave the dummy light hooked up. Turn on accel.. oil should light up /start .. if light goes out on panel.. ---> Working <--- although having a gauge makes for great conversation on how many oil leaks and where the leaks are... i no longer leak but still consume about a quarter of a quart every 2 weeks instead of a quart every 3 days.. just a side note... sometimes the front Crank seal blows out and leaks down off the pump that makes it look like it either the pump or pan gasket that's leaking it's hard to get a p/n for the pump oil rings because there are so many distributors... and if ya do the Mickey mouse and O-ring ya may as well do the oil pump seal too... good luck and have fun! Yea should really do everything up there while your there..Engine Oil Pump Gasket Kit BECK/ARNLEY 039-6320 fits 85-91 Subaru XT 1.8L-H4..Dayco SK0103 Timing Seal Kit fit Subaru Loyale 90-94 XT 85-87 DL 85-89 GL NA...NEW Subaru DL GL Loyale XT RX Engine Timing Set Gates TCK299 I have yet to changes tensioner pulleys, I just cleaned them up .. I sure hope this don't deter ya from thinking ya have a oil pump problem LOL! If ya do all this your good to go for another Hundred Million Miles of Great Fun Loving Subaru Adventures! Edited October 13, 2016 by Len Dawg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) Thanks all. Hopefully I can just feed it oil on the drive back north and then get the gasket and oil pump replaced. Anyone have a part number handy for the gasket? Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Here's what I do for reliable daily driver usage of an XT6: Timing components will strand you so I like to put these on the list first, it includes related items that require the same labor: new timing belts regrease the pulleys (new kits are $400 or you can source bearings/have them pressed in) - i use a needle fitting and squirt some grease under the face seal for $3. new water pump and Subaru OEM thermostat new cam seals and cam cap orings reseal the oil pump - gasket (mickey mouse) and shaft seal crank shaft seal These are often problematic but usually won't strand you so these are second: replace the coolant temp sensor connector if it's brittle or corroded connections underneath (common issue). there are generic fuel injector plugs that are identical and have a pig tail. replace alternator connector if it's brittle Same here - basic tune up stuff that should be done anyway: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, PCV, fuel filter, drive belt Clean and regrease brake calipers and make sure the pins aren't sticking, boots aren't cracked, clips aren't rusted. Use SilGlyde or high quality grease, much better than the common permatex generic stuff in stores. With that - you've got a very reliable daily driver. Fuel pumps and alternators are ancient or unreliable aftermarket replacements by now so those are noteworthy, but that's true of nearly any aged/high mileage Subaru, even a 200,000 mile 2006 Outback. Edited October 13, 2016 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JLow03 Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Gary, great list - thank you. I've begun assembling the individual components from Subaru...but does anyone have any thoughts on this kit? Anyone bought it with any results? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-Set-Fel-Pro-HS-9621-PT-fits-88-91-Subaru-XT-2-7L-H6-/131889921659?fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item1eb5407e7b:g:CAsAAOSwwo1XdVka&vxp=mtr Found out there is a headgasket leak to contend with as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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