Lverano Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) Still I ride the 03 Bean with the whirrring noise coming from my front differential. 6,000 miles and has not gotten louder or gotten better since adding redline heavy shock proof, which has kept the problem at bay. One day I'll remove the transmission from this vehicle, and when I do, I want to eliminate any possibilities of stripping or getting any of the transmission frame bolts stuck. So my question is, is heating either of the main transmission anchor bolts with a torch a good safe measure to use before trying to break them loose? How hot should I let them get? How long after heating should I try to turn them out? I already plan on using a good six point socket. For the torch,I'll use a decent Bernzomatic, and that's about it. Any important pointers from any of you good mechanics that you could share with me? Thanks! Edited October 19, 2016 by Lverano 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I would take it for a good drive to get everything up to temperature. Then go right at the bolts, no torch. Based on thinking these bolts are screwed into a big hunk of aluminum. This trick has saved me from stripping many very stuck bolts on engines. Avoids risk of overheating anything with a torch also... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) are you talking about the bellhousing or the actual trans mount bolts at the rear of the trnasmission? are the lower mount nuts by the axles really rusty and flaking? issues are rare here. the two worst culprits are the two lower nuts behind the axles - those are the most prone to issues. if they're badly rusted remove the axles and make sure you go at them straight and with a quality 6 point socket at perfect 90/180 degree angles of applied force. as soon as it starts slipping - stop and reassess. i forget what i've done in the past but i've never had a problem ultimately getting them out either. if they're tight - turn it once or twice (depending how tight) then go do something else to let them cool down. come back to it - washer, rinse, repeat, never letting the bolt get hot - therby expanding, exaccerbating the issue, and compromising the materials properties as you go. i ocassionally run into one bellhousing bolt that's a real beast - and galls and really tight on the way out, for no reason, no rust - but heat wouldn't help those. just follow the wash/rinse/repeat method listed above and have a tap and die to clean the threads of any of those tight bolts so they go in without stripping during reinstall. Edited October 19, 2016 by grossgary 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lverano Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 are you talking about the bellhousing or the actual trans mount bolts at the rear of the trnasmission? are the lower mount nuts by the axles really rusty and flaking? issues are rare here. the two worst culprits are the two lower nuts behind the axles - those are the most prone to issues. if they're badly rusted remove the axles and make sure you go at them straight and with a quality 6 point socket at perfect 90/180 degree angles of applied force. as soon as it starts slipping - stop and reassess. i forget what i've done in the past but i've never had a problem ultimately getting them out either. if they're tight - turn it once or twice (depending how tight) then go do something else to let them cool down. come back to it - washer, rinse, repeat, never letting the bolt get hot - therby expanding, exaccerbating the issue, and compromising the materials properties as you go. i ocassionally run into one bellhousing bolt that's a real beast - and galls and really tight on the way out, for no reason, no rust - but heat wouldn't help those. just follow the wash/rinse/repeat method listed above and have a tap and die to clean the threads of any of those tight bolts so they go in without stripping during reinstall. Well then your post was a help, because I was gonna torch that thing red hot. I'll go on to do as you've instructed here, and I'll save my torch for the exhaust. Thanks again Gary! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lverano Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 I would take it for a good drive to get everything up to temperature. Then go right at the bolts, no torch. Based on thinking these bolts are screwed into a big hunk of aluminum. This trick has saved me from stripping many very stuck bolts on engines. Avoids risk of overheating anything with a torch also... Great advice and matches closely to what grossgary said. Sounds like a winner, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Go easy on them, if they are really stuck rock them back and forth gradually unscrewing. If it's a bolt head, heating it that hot softens the bolt. You want the heat in the aluminum so it expands more than the steel bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Heating is a back up option for sure but one i've never needed. One difference is It's not like other bolts that are just rust welded from the back side, through the middle, or the entire shank. That doesn't really happen here and they're large, beefy bolts/nuts. So once the initial movement happens, it should come out. The nuts can be worse because if the studs/nut threads are rusty then it'll grab and bite on the way out too even after loosening. The rest - never had an issue after the first movement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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