CaptainDub Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) My 94 loyale failed state inspection due to a few issues. The minor ones have been fixed but the ones I can't figure out are the following. Brake light is on when you start the car every time until you rev past 2000 then it goes off and won't come back on until you restart Actually all warning lights are on when started but the brake light is the one failing me. MC is full of fluid. If the inspector doesn't rev it then he just sees the light and doesn't know why. Is this a normal behavior or is something else going on electrically? The bigger concern is the brake pedal travel. He said he puts his foot under the brake pedal and if the pedal touches his foot then it's too far to the floor. The brakes feel good, not spongy and it seems to stop fine. I bled the brakes and checked the rear cylinders and the auto adjusters seem to be functioning properly with no binding. At rest the pedal sits at 6.25" and fully compressed it's about 3.5". Is this considered low or is my inspectors boot just too big? I've considered going elsewhere to get it inspected where I know they'll pass it regardless but I also want my vehicle to be safe. Edited December 13, 2016 by CaptainDub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 It is not normal for the brake light to be on. The only time I have seen it on is when the fluid is low. It should be on or off. Only light while cranking for lamp check. How many miles are on the alternator? If it is original, a brush fails at about 150k miles like clockwork. The alternator light doesn't always show this, but it messes with the other lights also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 The revving making it go out makes me suspect the alternator. The pedal trave could be a booster problem, assuming all the bads and shoes are decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainDub Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 No idea how old the alternator is. The car has 135k but the engine is said to have 185ish. This might also explain the erratic fluttering of the voltmeter and the meter doesn't hop up past 12 until I rev it past 2k. I have a spare alternator, I'll try that out and see if it goes away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Definitely alternator brush worn out. I just rebuild them. Get a new brush and bearings are due. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I don't have it handy, but there should be a section on the Haynes or FSM on setting the brake pedal height. Adjust it, maybe bring it up a bit just to keep the inspector happy, and retry. Take the manual with you during the test. If he still fails it, show him that it meets specs. Measuring travel with the toe of his shoe might be a quick and dirty way to test for a possible problem, but it doesn't beat a ruler and actual factory specifications. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainDub Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 I have the Chiltons but the only spec it shows for the loyale is resting pedal height of 6.22" and free play. What I would need is pedal stroke spec. If anyone can find the factory spec for the loyale brake pedal stroke please post it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Take it to a different inspection station. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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