6 Lug Redrill - Hub Removal

[Loyale w Cheese]

I'm planning on a 6 Lug Re-drill for my '91 Loyale. I've found quite a bit of info on how to do the re-drill. My question is on removal of the Hub's...Is there a write-up on hub removal or are there any tricks to removing to hub? Are there any parts I'll need to replace for re-installation? 

 

Cheers 

[zmarrott]

Should be pretty simple. Fronts are same for 2wd and 4wd. Gotta pull off the axel nut, then the 4 bolts holding the hub to the brake rotor. Then just take a small sledge and hit the axel in. Youll see when the hub is free of the splines. Rears are easier on both with slight difference 2wd vs 4wd. 4wd, take off the axel nut and hit the axel out then wiggle off the drum. 2wd should be similar, but i dont remember exactly, its just not an axel and you dont hit the spindle out.

Shouldnt need to replace anything either unless you notice anything damaged. Also id suggest a punch of sorts or be carefull when hitting out the axels so not to mar the threads on the end

Edited December 13, 2016 by zmarrott

[DaveT]

Should not have to hit the axle. Not so good for the wheel bearings, or the end of the threads. Before you remove the tire, pull the cotter pin from the axle nut. Break it loose, maybe a turn. Then jack and remove the tire. I've always swung the caliper off to pull the hubs and rotors, but removing the 4 bolts should work also. Then remove the axle nut and the spring washer . The cone washer will be stuck. Hit it with a good size drift / flat end punch and it should pop loose. The hub should just slide off at that point.

 

Spray your favorite penetrating oil into the gap in the cone washer and the axle nut even a day or 2 before starting couldn't hurt.

[987687]

On the fronts, pull the parking brake on good and tight first. That way the rotors will stay in place when you remove the hubs. Makes it a bit easier. On the rears I just let the rotors droop a bit (if you have rear discs, that is). If you have drums, you might have to loosen the adjustment nut.

 

And I will repeat DO NOT HAMMER ON THE END OF THE AXLE (unless it's with a brass drift and you're replacing something that requires removal of the axle)

[987687]

Oh also, when you put it back together make sure the shaft of the axle is clean, the seat for the cone washer is clean and oil free (if it isn't, the hub will come loose ruining the splines). The flat washer isn't actually flat, it's very slightly cupped. Put the concave side toward the cone washer, convex side toward the axle nut.

 

EDITED FOR CORRECTNESS. thanks robm

(something something, senior year finals week braindead something)

Edited December 14, 2016 by 987687

[Loyale w Cheese]

Excellent guys...Thank you! Planning on starting the project in a week or so. I'll try and document for other inquiring minds for the future.

Edited December 14, 2016 by Loyale w Cheese

[robm]

987687 got something wrong, which is pretty rare for him.

 

The not-quite flat washer goes convex side OUT, towards the nut, not in.  Most of them have the word "OUT" stamped on them, so you know, but we don't want this to get confusing.