MrB Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 I just bought a 2007 Outback 2.5 base model. Two days in it has started surging at idle from about 600 rpm to 1000-1200 rpm for about 1 second and then drops to 200ish rpm then back to 600. It then stays there for 20 sec. or so and repeats the cycle. I can feel a slight surge in throttle for the same duration while driving at a steady speed with and without cruise control on. Could this be as simple as wires or O2 sensor? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Probably not o2 sensor. Maybe CTS. Maybe an intermittent wire or connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 scan the ecu for a pending code. yes, on a 10 year old car, it could be an O2 sensor. But a little more diagnosis might save you some money if it's a vacuum leak or poor ground connection, or ??? 07 I believe are also DBW and there could possibly be an issue with the accelerator pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 what is "cts"? Now the CE light is on and Cruise is flashing, and this all happened after filling the fuel tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montana tom Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 cts, is coolant temp sensor, dbw, is drive by wire(electric signal only, no cable from pedal to throttle body). Cruise will flash (and not work) anytime check engine light pops on. You need to have the codes read (most parts houses ) and see what that tells us. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Check engine light means it is telling you what is likely wrong. Most auto parts stores will read that for free for you (they'll probably try to sell you something on the spot, but get the actual trouble code number, 5 digits, usually starting with a P). Then look up your car's service manual on www.jdmfsm.info and find the section for your engine and search for that trouble code. It'll give you a detailed list of how to diagnose the problem without just throwing parts (and money) at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 if it happens again I will check those things. In other reading I found a few instances where this same issue was caused by a fuel cap not being tightened properly. I disconnected the bat negative for about 20 min to erase codes, then reconnected the battery unscrewed and re-tightened the cap, turned the key to on for about 45sec. but did not start the car. Then I started the car, it did not start well and was a little funny with the throttle/clutch application at first. Apparently the computer has to "relearn" the sensors. I have driven it about 70 miles now and it has steadily improved with no check engine light. I have just today filled the tank and I think tightened the fuel cap enough. We will see. Thanks to you all and I will update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 Hello I have now gone through an entire tank of fuel and no check engine light. It seems the fuel cap was the culprit. Thanks again and I hope someone finds this helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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