Mastremarx Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Hello, I am purchasing a Subaru this weekend and currently it does not run. Besides that, is there certain rust issues or worn parts I should check before buying it? My plan is, if its not in bad shape and passes a used buyers guide or inspections, that I am going to try and drive it home the same day. Here is what the owner stated was the problem: "I'm not sure what's wrong with it it started when I was at the grocery store I came out I got in the car backed out of the parking spot it died wouldn't start I waited a while it started up ran a little rough I drove it home it seemed to smooth out later on I went to the store it ran fine I was coming home it cut out a couple of times so I parked it I was going to have it towed to the mechanic but I decided I didn't want to spend the time or the money the other day I went out to the car after charging the battery and it started up engine light was on it ran a little rough but not bad I would chance driving it because I don't know when it would just quit that's about all I can tell you I hope it helps." I know I need to check fuel, air, and spark. I am buying a chilton manual today as well. I want to check that the battery is good and then check the air filter and fuel filter. I know testing spark plugs and fuses should be up on the list. From another post I should: 1.A simple way to determine if fuel shoot a bit of starter fluid into the carb, put air cleaner back on and crank, if it fires then dies shortly after, yea, possibly no fuel flow. The best way for me, is to Disconnect the Main Fuel Line from the Intake, and Place it on a Empty Can, then turn ingnition "ON" but not to Start Engine (Just to "Red Lights" on the Dashboard) and the Pump will give around 10 Ounces of Fuel, then it will Stop automatically. 2. If you take the cover off your distributor then crank the engine and your rotor turns, very good chance that belt is good, the other belt (right side) has a little removable plug on the front cover and kind of feel the belt in there... usually the belt that turns the left cam/distributor wears out first... lots of info on this in the search area... If you have a belt that jumped teeth you will have spark.. just at the wrong time. So far thatsall I have, any other info would be amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 ARE ANY RED DASH LIGHT ON ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 First thing I was change is the fuel filter. Something can be floating in the filter and moves around and cause some starvation problems. You actually might get a great deal if you just look and the basics. But what you do is have a friend follow you there or go there with a truck so if anything happens, don't even mess around. Just tow it back. They don't weigh very much. I used my Brat and I towed another Subie I bought all the way home and come to find out, it was a bad ecu. I had a spare so for giggles to check, I plugged in my spare ecu and she fired right up. Changed back to the bad one, and she would just crank and crank. Plugged the other one in and fired off and ran great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Be sure to check the cooling system also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 What to look for: Newer model Subaru. Go with a Legacy. GD 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastremarx Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 ARE ANY RED DASH LIGHT ON ? The engine light is on after he charged the battery over night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastremarx Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 First thing I was change is the fuel filter. Something can be floating in the filter and moves around and cause some starvation problems. You actually might get a great deal if you just look and the basics. But what you do is have a friend follow you there or go there with a truck so if anything happens, don't even mess around. Just tow it back. They don't weigh very much. I used my Brat and I towed another Subie I bought all the way home and come to find out, it was a bad ecu. I had a spare so for giggles to check, I plugged in my spare ecu and she fired right up. Changed back to the bad one, and she would just crank and crank. Plugged the other one in and fired off and ran great. I will check the fuel filter, what are some other basics I should look out for with these models? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEECHBM69 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 What to look for: Newer model Subaru. Go with a Legacy. GD We can't help who we love, dude. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Expect the car to need at minimum: Timing belts and water pump. The timing belts especially are problematic on these cars. In around 135,000 miles of use of a GL I had the timing belts break on me twice leaving me stranded on the side of the road. On most of these that I had I commonly threw head gaskets, all oil seals, water pump, thermostat, plugs and wires, water pump at the car before being able to trust it. I love the GL series... but General Disorder is right... something newer like a Legacy or Impreza is going to be significantly more reliable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Once you go through EVERYTHING, the GL can be good. I drive one now. If "your" 87 hasn't had a reseal, it's due. Timing belt change interval for high reliability is 50K - that's me being extra careful. The original interval in the FSM was shortened by Subaru years ago. When you do timing belts, replace the 3 idlers or their bearings. Coolant system maintenance is #1 priority for reliability. Get a FSM. Read lots of threads on here, it's an older car, it's going to need stuff taken care of to be reliable again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Uh.... seriously you can't even buy an oil pump for that engine anymore. As in you CANNOT buy one. There are no sources and Subaru has told us there isn't going to be EVER AGAIN. It's not a platform you want go seek out to buy. If you haven't plunked your hard earned cash down yet....go find a legacy that you can actually order parts for if you need them. EA82 = dead platform. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naked Buell Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) Wow GD, I did not know that about the Ea's. I know I have my newly rebuilt ea81 in my Rx with only 5000 miles on it and am looking at the Ej sitting next to it with 220,000 and am contemplating putting that in the Rx and even more so now knowing that the parts are getting so hard to find. Totally see what you are saying. Edited March 1, 2017 by Naked Buell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 For the moment you can get oil pumps for the EA81. You can't get any valves or pistons, cranks, rods, etc though. The EJ will be suported far into the future. It helps that an oil pump for a 2016 STI fits a 90 Legacy, etc. The EA82 was a short run (really only 5 years - the Loyale was just left overs from meatloaf night), single displacement, problematic platform that was never persued. My local dealer parts guy, who has been there long enough to have memorized the parts list for the 4 speed trans shift fork repair kit, rolls his eyes whenever EA82 stuff is discussed. You can tell he wishes those cars and the Justy were never made. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastremarx Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Once you go through EVERYTHING, the GL can be good. I drive one now. If "your" 87 hasn't had a reseal, it's due. Timing belt change interval for high reliability is 50K - that's me being extra careful. The original interval in the FSM was shortened by Subaru years ago. When you do timing belts, replace the 3 idlers or their bearings. Coolant system maintenance is #1 priority for reliability. Get a FSM. Read lots of threads on here, it's an older car, it's going to need stuff taken care of to be reliable again. What does the FSM look like? I have seen some on ebay but they are like 5 books total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Yes they are 4 or 5 books. About 8-1/2 x 11. Lots of details in them that are left out of the generic car manuals. Iirc, mine are section1, sec2&3 , 4&5, and 6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mastremarx Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Heading out tomorrow, Ill see how it all goes. Edited March 4, 2017 by Mastremarx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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