yankneck Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 I got it down but didn't have car high enough & sucky Jack only has 13 3/8 lift on in. Nervous putting a block on the jack. My luck sucks, makes everything be difficult lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 On a side note, I seem to now but not before have a very slight coolant leak, seemingly from the rear of the engine area? Suggestions as to what to look at. Slight meaning one slow drip from oil pan bolt about a minute & a half apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Check heater hoses, etc. Might have strained them tilting the engine around. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Check heater hoses, etc. Might have strained them tilting the engine around. GD Alright, will do. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) On the bolts to the steel return & supply lines, anything specific I need to pay attention to on those holes in the bolts? Yes, I finally got it down and out after 3 working days on it. Yay me now to get it up ugh ???? Old Replacement These were before I swapped the steel lines. The dipstick tube also got bent some, I'm hoping it's bent back far enough or should I swap those too? Edited March 7, 2017 by yankneck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I seem to remember swapping those lines requires new copper crush washers to seal up and last. Otherwise it should just be a matter of unbolting and bolting. Not sure if there's a torque spec for it. I just went a little past tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Suggestions on how to get it in the air from here? The scratch marks are from taking the old one out, not the new one under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Probably pull it up with some rope and slide under it to bench press it into place. Good on you for going to that effort. We've all been there. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Anyone have photos showing examples? With car having slid once let's just say I'm more than a little nervous going underneath. Resting on 2 Jack stands with support from 2 floor jacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moosens Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Little at a time using blocks and wedges. Try not to crush fingers or take yourself out with a head shot. Sometimes that old scissor jack saves the day. Good luck. You're half way home. You'll be feeling good soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I put my scissor jacks on top of a cinder block and keep cranking until the jack stands fully extend - sometimes on top of a few chunks of 2x12 or 2x10. Makes it a 2 step process both up and down but gets you there. The caution I have is that cinder blocks crack and crumble where wood does not. I wont trust my life to jacks or stands on the cinder blocks. Make sure the e-brake is holding well and chock the rear wheels for good measure. I always grab the car and shake it pretty hard to make sure it wont topple while I'm under it. For an automatic transmission I rent a transmission jack for a day. Well worth the time and $$$ in my book. Manuals are easy enough to manhandle into place. Automatics are heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Almost there, when I put the transmission fluid in, do it put it all in, then start or what? I'm finishing this tonight, rain or no rain. Thanks for everything already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Keep the coffee going! If you get stuck/frustrated be willing to walk away though. Often saves time/frustration/mistakes/even injury. I fill the fluid - technically I think the best measurement will be at idle. So it will probably require more as everything circulates. Gear oil on the passenger side tube should not need more added after the initial fill. After you've had it running/idling for a while and the levels seem right, I take it for a few minutes gentle drive and check again. Don't think it has needed more after that but I check a few times just in case. My first auto trans swap I had a leak at one of the lines due to the previously mentioned crush washer. Got cold chills down my spine when it wouldn't go into reverse and was shifting poorly. Checked fluids and was low. Topped it off, got home and figured out the issue quick. Was terrified I'd installed another failing trans. After the crush washer that trans went on for 83,000+ miles til we sold the car (A 2000 Outback that was at 382,000 miles and has probably turned 400 with the new owner. That first trans had gone just shy of 300k) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 I totally get what you're saying about walking away, BUT I NEED it to get to work leaving at 5:30 AM EST. SO you add what you think it needs, then start and idle, then check. I was mainly asking if I start & let idle BEFORE I'm finished adding initial fill. I believe from empty capacity is 8.8 quarts. So I was wondering put 8 in then start or start after say like 6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Keep the coffee going! If you get stuck/frustrated be willing to walk away though. Often saves time/frustration/mistakes/even injury. I fill the fluid - technically I think the best measurement will be at idle. So it will probably require more as everything circulates. Gear oil on the passenger side tube should not need more added after the initial fill. After you've had it running/idling for a while and the levels seem right, I take it for a few minutes gentle drive and check again. Don't think it has needed more after that but I check a few times just in case. My first auto trans swap I had a leak at one of the lines due to the previously mentioned crush washer. Got cold chills down my spine when it wouldn't go into reverse and was shifting poorly. Checked fluids and was low. Topped it off, got home and figured out the issue quick. Was terrified I'd installed another failing trans. After the crush washer that trans went on for 83,000+ miles til we sold the car (A 2000 Outback that was at 382,000 miles and has probably turned 400 with the new owner. That first trans had gone just shy of 300k) Yeah I wasn't able to get to Subaru today & Auto Zone nor Advance had the crush washers, crossing my fingers. This one has almost 285,000 on original transmission, was told replacement has 103,000 Yay me right lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Ok, I answered my own question. Putting 8 quarts in BEFORE starting was WRONG. It started pouring out around the dipstick tube where it mounts to tranny. I did a short easy test drive, shifted well & all. Then went to gas station about 5 miles away. After buying inside items & gas, I checked & I'm pretty sure it was showing low. I backed up & had a puddle on the ground. Drove home had no issues. Will check again in the AM. Whoever suggested ratchet straps, thanks a million. One through front doors & one around front fenders. That got it up enough to get a Jack under it. Then the addition of a skinnier friend REALLY helped get it mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Morning update. After approximately 25-30 fluid was off the dipstick entirely, leaking like a sive. Will get it up later to look. New developments. When I start the car, the green Power light on the dash flashes, never seen it do that before & I can't get any sound out if my radio even when playing a CD. Keep y'all updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Probably a hose or crush washer. If it's bolted in and moving around though, you're nearly out of the woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Flashing power light indicates stored transmission computer codes. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Update Ok, I cheated. I took it to the transmission shop for them to locate the leak. Apparently, in my worry about the positioning of the holes in the bolt to the rear steel line, I didn't get it toght. They went ahead and tightened it for me, no charge. Honestly, with as sore as I am, I'm glad they took the 20 minutes or so because watching how hard it was for them on the lift, it would have been a PITA on the ground for me. I'm still keeping check, I think I still have a leak, just significantly slower. I may have to get an actual Subaru pan gasket. Shop said the rubber gasket doesn't usually work well on these especially with no sealant like the directions said. Thanks for all the help & support. Paul Edited March 11, 2017 by yankneck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) When I punch it, like to pass or stomped off the line, I get what sounds like metal on metal squeal that was not there before. I'm looking into how to translate power light flashing. When I start the car power light is solid for maybe 2 seconds then flashes 16 times. If it's something like the Duty C or clutch pack, would I be able to swap it off my original transmission? Edited March 11, 2017 by yankneck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Ok, so following the directions here http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html, I came up with code 33 speed sensor 2. What on earth does that refer to? I did a search here, http://parts.riverheadbaysubaru.com/productSearch.aspx?searchTerm=Speed%20sensor%202&ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&ukey_trimLevel=110403&ukey_driveLine=0&modelYear=1992&ukey_category=52093 and seemingly came up with AT. Control Valve. Which I tried to price at my local dealer & was told over $1,000. What am I in the middle of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankneck Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Alright, so apparently with this, Speed Sensor 2 refers to where to speedometer cable goes into the transmission. I knew the Speedometer wasn't working. I also knew it was because I didn't have it seated into the dash part, because I'd had the entire inner cable out. I cleaned it fully & then applied some Never Seize on it. Once I finally got it seated in the dash correctly, the code went away. Now though, the speedometer seems sluggish. Meaning it seems to go up slowly and especially slow when slowing down. Is there a way to lubricate where the gear us in the transmission itself, or is the NeverSeize an issue. I didn't have any graphite & just figured NeverSeize is slick as all get out, that it would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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