Outbackpacker Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Hi Guys, Here's my first post after many years away. I recently started having a squeal or high pitched whistle(?) coming from the engine compartment. It started happening all of a sudden and only does it when the engine is cold from sitting in the garage overnight. The pitch and sound changes when I slightly depress the clutch, then goes quiet as I push down the rest of the way until I let up completely. The squeal continues after pulling out and quiets after 2 blocks of driving, approx. a couple of stop signs, otherwise; if I let it idle it keeps squealing for a long time. I vaguely remember replacing the clutch when the first engine head gasket blew. Probably between 60-80K ago. Mostly hwy mileage, but 224,000 miles and the 2.5 was replaced with a 2.2. The clutch pedal goes about 2/3 down before it shifts from stop to 1st. Its not a young gal anymore, but Seems OK to me. I want your feedback. My guess is that the clutch throwout bearing is starting to go bad. What do you think guys/gals? Outbackpacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 What brand of clutch kit was used? It is probably the throw out as you surmise. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 I think I got OEM, but its been a long time. BTW, correction, I had the local shop do it for me that time because they were doing my head gasket rebuild job. I remember insisting on OEM when they wanted to sell me something else. Its hard to say at this point. Later one of the grease monkey's replaced my plug wires and plugs with used ones from a garbage can, HE admitted when the shop owner got back from vacation. Heck, I might have Yugoslavic clutch parts in there. I remember the The clutch itself grabs fine at all 5 gears, its just the sudden onset of the shrill noise that has me concerned. I've replaced some old GLs and a previous OB after 2 mechanics messed it up by using cheap parts, or RE-using the throwout bearing spring clip. The bums that I already paid, messed me over by reusing a couple buck part and the bearing wasn't disengaging strongly and burned up $300 worth of parts and labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbrand Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 if it is not a TO bearing I'll buy you a beer-it will get worse-been there did that on my 91 leg..and 80 SW.. can pull engine forward and up a little to access....if you do with the mileage you have would highly recommend replacing clutch fork too-mine on Leg had the ball "socket" in the fork crater and split out requiring replacement, had to get part from dealer, take your VIN to order. had to separate engine and trans again wish I had replaced as part of clutch job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Sounds like my '96. Watching and learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Does the noise occur with the transmission in neutral when you rev the engine? Or only under load with the clutch engaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Adventure Subaru, The noise does occur at any RPMs when in neutral. It goes away as I depress the clutch about the point when the bearing starts to touch the fingers (springs on clutch). The sound continues when IN gear too, AFTER the clutch pedal is released.....for a little while. It clears up in short order even before the engine has had time to warm at all. gbrand, Its been a while since I change out a clutch, so I'll be happy if I can simply pull out the radiator, disconnect the engine and access it by pulling it forward. Maybe I won't have to replace anything behind the throwout bearing and maybe fork. One thing for sure, is I'm NOT a mechanic, BUT IF I want it done right, I better do it myself......speaking from experience. There's excellent mechanics in my area, here in WV, but they either charge highest market value (BIG $), or cut corners because they don't seem to care....... I had a LOT of work done once and the guy didn't want to replace the tensioner on a head gasket, and timing belt job, etc.... As soon as out of warantee, it threw the belt and ruined the engine, valves, etc. This was at the SUBE Shop where the guy knew better and admitted it. Didn't do me any good. I appreciate the good feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbrand Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 yes, you are on the right to track to get to the To bearing-drop exhaust, pull radiator, you may need to jack up engine slightly. Be careful with the clips that attach the TO bearing to fork, they fly off and are only available from dealer IIRC good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 gbrand, Thanks. Anytime I've changed out a clutch, its been a pretty big job and learning experience. Ie. Make a tripod, pull it using block/tackle, chain, etc. The way you describe, if I don't have to change the whole thing, just the bearing, the fork and spring clip; it sounds MUCH easier! Working by myself, it sounds like I don't have to stress out dreading a full day or more handling it all by myself. Anything that you'd recommend that I should do or check while I'm replacing the T.O. bearing, fork, and bearing return spring (or whatever its proper name is)? I don't have a spare car to pick up parts, and the parts stores refuse to deliver to anyone but commercial garages. Once I've got it apart, I would like to make sure that I've got everything that I might need. I can always return an extra part although it might cost 20% restocking fee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) If you're convinced it's the throwout bearing - here's the best write up for a clutch job (or related) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t128163-diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.html I've done it without fully pulling the trans but it makes for a tight and more uncomfortable job. If you're new to it, better to take an extra hour and drop it fully and give yourself room. Unless you know that the clutch is low miles, you should do it all now. Exedy is the preferred brand. Replace the J clips for the throwout bearing and the clutch fork retainer clip. re-using them is often asking for them to fail a few miles down the road. Any subaru dealer can get them for you and last I checked they are also available on ebay. Edited March 10, 2017 by AdventureSubaru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Adventure Subaru, Thanks man! That's a great write up. Very clear. Is it illustrated? I'm asking because the link said "pictorial" and sometimes those pics don't show up because they are restricted to members, or my firewall blocks them for some reason. If I decide to get a new clutch, I'll go with your recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Yep. About as illustrated and comprehensive as it comes. It will be handy either way. new clutch only adds 2 steps to changing the throwout bearing. there's no changing the throwout bearing without seperating the engine and trans, so you may as well spend a little extra and not have to go in there for another 100k+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Thanks, I'll get membership to get those pics then. Since I have nobody to lend a hand, would you recommend dropping the manual transmission or pulling the engine? Also wondering if you recommend supporting anyone on the board who sells Exedy brand parts? If not, I'll find the best price or local if available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Opps. Double tap Edited March 10, 2017 by Outbackpacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Maybe try a different computer. I'm not a member but can see the pics just fine. Not aware of any board members that carry any exedy parts. I usually cross reference Amazon, Ebay, partsgeek and RockAuto and go for the cheapest option. (Ebay more often than not) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outbackpacker Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 I appreciate you, Adventure Subaru and all others who have taken your time to answer my questions. I believe that you have all provided good wisdom and will take the advise and do do this as soon as I get a chance. I'll save and get the whole kit. I considered selling the car soon, but decided to keep it as a work car for another year or two till I can buy without a loan. I guess it will be worth to fix and use rather than get a thousand for the old wagon. Best to you all! Outbackpacker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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