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That's not a switch it's the lock bar for the wire harness connector.

You pulled that while the engine was running? That's bad because you can damage computer circuits by unplugging things with the engine running.

 

If the connector separated when you flipped the lock bar earlier, you need to take it apart again and make sure none of the pins in there are bent. Plug it back in and lightly push the two halves of the connector together while you flip the lock back into place.

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I just ran through the idle reset sequence, and all is well again. I did check all of the pins before reattaching it. Now to figure out why my tcu is throwing a code... could bald tires throw the thing off?

 

If they are all bald, it should be okay.  If you've got different tread depths though, you're going to hurt the awd system, badly.  What's the code?

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Apart from the TCU code, there are 2 questions that beg to be answered.

 

1. Why are you randomly unplugging things with the motor running if you don't know what they are?

 

2. Why are you driving on bald tires?

 

I'm not trying to bash you. But on both respects you are asking for trouble. Do your research first and then go mess with the car within the scope of your knowledge. For the car's sake and your safety's sake. Also - Get some tires! Tires are the literal rubber meets the road. One of the most critical safety pieces of your vehicle. Driving them bald is asking for a blowout, hydroplane etc. You are a danger to yourself and others if you're driving spent tires.

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1) I wasn't randomly unplugging wires. I was checking all of the connections from the wheels in, when I pulled my arm out after checking the connection behind the Wire harness connector, my watch caught it, and lifted it slightly. A large connection with a lever designed to make unplugging it easy should have a strong retainer. It looks like a previous owner may have snapped it off, it may have been too weak. I put a band of heat shrink around it to prevent future problems.

 

2) I am not driving on bald tires. This car has been parked for nearly two years, with the exception of driving it 6 miles to work every few months. I bought a lemon.

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low usage is considered 'severe duty' - new fluids everywhere would be a good place to start.

 

details on vehicle?

 

also, if you have a smartphone, an ELM327 BT (less than 20-40 bucks) adapter and an app like Torque can get you reading your own codes +more.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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low usage is considered 'severe duty' - new fluids everywhere would be a good place to start.

 

details on vehicle?

 

also, if you have a smartphone, an ELM327 BT (less than 20-40 bucks) adapter and an app like Torque can get you reading your own codes +more.

2005 outback 2.5xt

 

Thanks for the suggestion, I will replace the fluids before taking it to the shop.

 

Is there a elm327 that is better than the others? I looked online, and they range in price. Is it a "get what you pay for" situation? Also, compatible with iPhone?

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if someone responds here, that info would be great, otherwise, for an iPhone, I would just read thru some reviews at amazon, if you scroll down on the screen, usually on the right side there's a search window for the reviews and you can specify Subaru, or iphone, etc.

 

there ARE some reports of very cheap harbor freight and ebay units not linking with Subaru s, but I think most folks have good luck in general - just make sure you can return a problematic unit I guess?

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that kind of difference is not ideal - much worse too if the tires are not all the exact same model. Could be an indication of prior abuse. Subaru want the tires to be the same model and size and within 1/4" in circumference.   if you do all the math, 2/32" is over that spec a little.

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that kind of difference is not ideal - much worse too if the tires are not all the exact same model. Could be an indication of prior abuse. Subaru want the tires to be the same model and size and within 1/4" in circumference.   if you do all the math, 2/32" is over that spec a little.

they are the same model and size. They will be replaced ASAP. Thanks.
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There are a few plug-in Bluetooth adapters that work with iPhone but you pretty much have to download the app and buy the specific adapter that the app works with.

I've used Bluedriver for several years now and have been happy with it, but the adapter costs $99 now, and I don't think I'll be buying another one when my current one finally goes obsolete.

 

 

You said traction control code before, but also TCU?

TCU is the Transmission control unit. Transmission codes won't be related to anything at the wheels.

 

Traction Control System (TCS) codes related to a wheel speed sensor will also be accompanied by ABS codes and an ABS light on the dash.

If you have a transmission code, focus on the transmission, not the wheels.

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There are a few plug-in Bluetooth adapters that work with iPhone but you pretty much have to download the app and buy the specific adapter that the app works with.

I've used Bluedriver for several years now and have been happy with it, but the adapter costs $99 now, and I don't think I'll be buying another one when my current one finally goes obsolete.

You said traction control code before, but also TCU?

TCU is the Transmission control unit. Transmission codes won't be related to anything at the wheels.

Traction Control System (TCS) codes related to a wheel speed sensor will also be accompanied by ABS codes and an ABS light on the dash.

If you have a transmission code, focus on the transmission, not the wheels.

That is good information. Thank you.

 

I was searching traction control problems because it seems to be a bit squirrelly when I do drive it. I replaced the struts a few months ago at a mechanics recommendation. It made no difference. Currently I have odd lights in my instrument cluster. Flashing cruise light, sport light, and the light that indicates what gear the (auto) trans is in changes position at stop lights occasionally.

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