ferp420 Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Doeh i hate it when that happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Ooooo NARLEY! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Tore the same spot on my Loyale. Also had the floor poking up under the pedals, so check under the carpet in that area too. It comes from not having the lift blocks on the radius rod plate linked to each other. I ended up welding a tab on from the top of the radius rod plate to the top of the rear lift block to brace it, and welding a flat bar between the two front lift blocks in that spot. That was after hammering the floor back together, welding a patch plate on, and re-welding the fire wall. Also check the body where the rear crossmember bolts on, I had cracks around all those and tore one of the captured nuts through. I built a boxed in pocket brace to attach to the 2 bolt holes in the rear of the floorpan to stiffen that area up. Then rust got to the point that I didn't have much to attach to any more. And the body had been worked over so much at that point that if you parked it with the suspension flexed out the doors would fight you. You could hear creaks and pops from all the broken spot welds in the poor thing. Basically the lift blocks put a ton more leverage on thin sheet metal and beating the piss out of it offroad means it's going to crack and tear at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 I think im just gona tack it all back together then move the rod mounts back and add hyme joints so its adjustable theres no way its going back to the stock set up now the blocks i am using are saposed to bend before the body gave the pasenger side did ive gone through about 3 sets on the passenger side and its solid still i have extras so i can change them out but it dident work like that this time oh well on to the next idea hopefully its stronger ill have to.check the rear too those desert woops are deadly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Good call. Nothing the welder cant fix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Hiem joints are in i just cant see repairing it i have to upgrade lol at least now i can put the wheels where i want them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted May 7, 2017 Author Share Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) All apart now so this is my starting point for the long traval suspention lol im gona continue this thread in The off road section as i start the build Edited May 7, 2017 by ferp420 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 New thread here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163257-i-saw-this-then-i-did-this/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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