Failed Emissions, No idea where to start!

[Acheeze]

'86 GL 4wd 5speed, hitachi non-feedback carb.

 

Failed for high HC and CO, according to the emissions testing graph, seems like its running rich mostly at idle, but seemingly all throughout the rev range.

 

I recently rebuilt the motor for headgaskets, and im not sure i hooked all the lines up to the carb correctly.

 

Car runs and drives OK. Has a stumble when cold from 2-3k rpm and sometimes hesitates on sudden throttle.

 

I also noticed a fuel smell at times as well, both from the rear and in the engine bay. I assume this means something is clogged with my evap system? Not really sure where to begin with this car at this point.

 

I would also like to add that I am at high altitude (Colorado) and my car does not seem to have a high altitude compensator. Also I passed emissions just fine 2 years ago when I bought the car.

 

Thanks in advance.

Edited May 6, 2017 by Acheeze

[DaveT]

I'm not a carb expert. Sounds like it running rich, from your description and emissions results. If the vacuum lines are not right, you have little chance of passing.

 

If you don't have a fsm, find one, or an online copy. That should help with the emmisions system connections, and more.

[skishop69]

What were the actual readings for the idle and cruise tests?

[ferp420]

You very well could have a clogged jet that is spraying a stream of fuel instead of a mist of fuel and the fuel is not burning all the way try some heavy duty carb cleaner in your fuel tank also take the air cleaner off look down the carb and move the throtle make sure theres a nice spray pattern from the accelerator jet it will be the only one you can see when the car isent running the main jet you can only see at wide open throtle with engine running the accelorator jet pick up is usaly on the botom of the carb and is first to pick up contaminates in the float boal and wold cause some stumbeling while trying to accelerate the unburnt fuel will cause it to fail the emissions my guess is a cloged jet somewere and some good fuel cleaner should fix it its a start anyway you could get video of the carb spray pattern if your not sure what to look for so some one who knows more can see whats happening another trick is to tighten and then lossen the idle mixture screw some times they get build up and cause problems but thats a delicate procidure and has to be returned exsactly were it was

Edited May 6, 2017 by ferp420

[Acheeze]

I'm not a carb expert. Sounds like it running rich, from your description and emissions results. If the vacuum lines are not right, you have little chance of passing.

 

If you don't have a fsm, find one, or an online copy. That should help with the emmisions system connections, and more.

 

I have a few copys of the FSM as well as my hood sticker and a haynes manual, the problem is my connections are so fubared its been a hell of a time figuring out what goes where from the diagrams. Im going to take a few photos and post them up so you can see.

 

What were the actual readings for the idle and cruise tests?

 

Heres a photo of both result pages. Seems like everything spikes at idle.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/u75zR

 

You very well could have a clogged jet that is spraying a stream of fuel instead of a mist of fuel and the fuel is not burning all the way try some heavy duty carb cleaner in your fuel tank also take the air cleaner off look down the carb and move the throtle make sure theres a nice spray pattern from the accelerator jet it will be the only one you can see when the car isent running the main jet you can only see at wide open throtle with engine running the accelorator jet pick up is usaly on the botom of the carb and is first to pick up contaminates in the float boal and wold cause some stumbeling while trying to accelerate the unburnt fuel will cause it to fail the emissions my guess is a cloged jet somewere and some good fuel cleaner should fix it its a start anyway you could get video of the carb spray pattern if your not sure what to look for so some one who knows more can see whats happening another trick is to tighten and then lossen the idle mixture screw some times they get build up and cause problems but thats a delicate procidure and has to be returned exsactly were it was

 

I think you may be on to something.

 

Heres a link to a video of the inside of the carb as I give it gas: 

 

I used a fuel cleaner in the tank before this, it seems to have helped a bit. I have looked for the idle mixture screw but I believe mine is still stuck behind the roll pin which I cannot find for the life of me.

 

Thanks everyone for the replys.

[5t0n3r1pp3r]

i am in Denver and have an 88 gl i can help out if needed I've also got a couple of the Haynes manuals to reference PM for number

[ferp420]

Im not seeing the accelerator pump squirting am i just missing it or something the spray pattern looks kinda random at first but it seemed to cleen up a bit by the end of the video

[Acheeze]

i am in Denver and have an 88 gl i can help out if needed I've also got a couple of the Haynes manuals to reference PM for number

Awesome I may take you up on that

 

Im not seeing the accelerator pump squirting am i just missing it or something the spray pattern looks kinda random at first but it seemed to cleen up a bit by the end of the video

Is the accelerator pump behind the tube the fuel comes out of? Not so good with carbs but i'm learning.

[skishop69]

Ok, first off, I see they failed you for no air  injection so the carb issue is moot unless that's dealt with. I'm assuming the plumbing and valves are still there on each exhaust 'manifold' and the guy doesn't know what he's looking at. No surprise there. If the components are missing, you need to get them back on or you will fail the visual inspection.

 

Now let's get to the HC & CO failures. You are correct that they are happening at idle so your problem should be simple. You're getting too much fuel on the idle circuit. The idle mixture screw is on the front of the carb at the base. With the car warmed up and running, turn the screw all the way in til it stops. Don't crank it down hard, seat it gently. The car should die or at the very least, barely run. If it does, back the screw out to one turn and restart the car. As it idles, back the screw out til the idle smooths out. Should be between 2-3 turns, no more then 3.1 1/2- 2 is optimal. When you find the spot where backing it out doesn't affect idle quality, turn it back in 1/4 turn. You'll also need to play with the idle screw during this adjustment to keep the idle around 800rpm.

 

If the car doesn't die or run like crap, then you have a vacuum leak or you're dumping fuel in through the primary circuit or your accelerator pump is leaking. Look at the choke plate when it's warmed up as well. It should be fully open. If not, you need to find out why it's not opening. That will cause fuel to be pulled in through the primary circuit at idle.You can also take the idle mixture screw all the way out and blow compressed air into the hole and this will clean out debris that may be blocking the air bleed portion of the idle circuit. Fixed many a Subaru idle issue this way.

Edited May 7, 2017 by skishop69

[ferp420]

With the engine off open the throtle kinda fast and look for the squirt skishop did a great job explaining step 2 so if the in gas carb cleaner dosent work and your not getting straight streams of gas or big drops of gas from anywere then mess with the idle air screw and make sure all your emissions equipment is there and if your gona plug a vacume port do it in a way that its hidden out of site smog people dont like seeing that