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Going for the 2.0L JDM Swap from EJ251 on 03 Forester


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So my younger son bought an 08 Impreza WRX to replace his 03 Forester with rod knock.  Was wondering what to do with his old car.  His brother wrecked his 98 Outback this weekend and I gave him my 99 Outback with 475k (he lives 8hrs away at college).

 

So going to put a 2.0L JDM engine in the 03 Forester for my daily.  Helps that my younger son works as a mechanic at the local Subaru dealer.  One of the mechs there has done lots of these swaps so I hope it goes well!

 

Wish me luck!

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Was wondering about finding parts for engine as generally they use the year/model.  Used opposedforces and found a European 2.0L engine on an Impreza (02-07) G11.  Going to use that for Part Numbers and hope it works.

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That should be fine. Almost everything is identical to the EJ251, so you should be able to look up parts based on your old motor/VIN, only common exception to that would be the head gaskets. IIRC, the JDM SOHC 2.0l head gasket part number crosses to the EJ205 WRX head gasket number. I know we've used that before here.

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PCV Fitting?

 

2.5L engine has the PCV threaded into a fitting on the block.  The 2.0L engine has a hose pressed over a straight fitting into the block. Anyone ever been able to remove the fittings threaded into the block?  Otherwise I guess a bit of MacGuyvering with hoses/etc may need to be done

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EGR Port Plug.  So looked for ideas to plug the EGR port on the head (manual transmission vehicle does not have EGR).  Various posts lead to different sizes.  Tried and true method, measure and used thread guage.  M20 x 1.5 on my JDM 2.0L engine.  Same size as Oil drain plug!  Easy fix!

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  • 2 weeks later...

So a bit of an update.  Not impressed with my choice of JDM supplier (jdmenginedep0t).  Engine supplied was shrink wrapped but had significant corrosion on the exterior of the block, nothing like the shining example photo.  Listing was for Non-EGR engine but received an EGR engine.  During prep to clean gasket surfaces noticed one of the valve guides had dropped.  Bit the bullet and removed that head to be sent out to shop that the Subaru dealer uses for a complete valve job.

 

The valve covers were both broken as well as the intake manifold. Not really a big issue as all the stuff from my removed 2.5L moved over.  Have spent way too much time making it look pretty.  

 

I would recommend that you read the compete description provided for the eBay listing or avoid eBay all together and use a different supplier.  The fine print on the eBay listing essentially absolved them of any issue other than no start.

Edited by Mike104
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Yep, and I know a guy who bought a Nissan SR20. He pulled the valve cover upon arrival, and found it packed with sludge. The supplier said he voided any warranty by removing the cover....

 

 

JDM engines CAN be a great option, but be very aware of the source.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So after a few delays (mostly getting the head reworked to address the dropped valve guide) got everything put back together and installed.  Primed the fuel and oil systems and it started right up!  Runs great and no check engine light!!

 

I took the time (since I had lots) to clean/paint some of the parts as well as change a few fasteners that were corroded and rounded over.  All in all a fairly easy swap (intake manifold swap makes it much easier).  Also swapped over the timing gears and crank/camshaft sensors.  I put on a larger oil pump as well since the ebay seller said it was required.

 

Only issue is the power steering pump hollow bolt that connects the line to the pump outlet is leaking   :( .  Will have to source a new sealing washer from Subaru ($1.00 part)

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Had a chance to look at the short block internals today on the removed engine and the #3 connecting rod to crankshaft bearing was shot.  Could move the connecting rod about 1/8".  I guess that explains the Oil Pressure light on at idle (when at operating temperature) and the loud knocking sound!

 

Spent today fixing a few minor leaks, hopefully that will be the last issue before I start driving.

Edited by Mike104
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  • 2 weeks later...

Been driving for a few days now.  Got a check engine light and it was a P0420.  Advice from knowledgeable members here was to put an OEM cat in.  I know that is the best option but it's a $1200 part.  Did the spark plug anti fouler trick on the rear O2 sensor a couple of days ago and hopefully that will fix it.

 

Idles smooth as butter and not really noticing any power loss.  With the manual transmission I shift at 4k RPM when accelerating on to the freeway.  Shift at 3k when on local streets.

 

Next project is a left rear knuckle replacement as the aft end (where the dreaded Lateral Link bolt goes) is worn and the wheel moves slightly when jacked.  (you can see the knuckle movement around the bolt).  I tried various online sites and local pull and pay yards and decided that with my son's discount using new Subaru parts was almost as cheap as getting a used part in dubious condition.  I know the lateral link bolt and bushings will probably be sacrificed to replace the knuckle so just bought new parts to install them instead of fighting with them like others have reported.

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