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Guest Message by DevFuse

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95' Legacy Wagon L ej22 rear inner fender gone? Anyone need the car for engine/trans?

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2 replies to this topic

#1 Bushwick


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Posted 18 May 2017 - 09:07 AM

Ugh, had a failed rear driver strut spring perch, which seemed straight-forward enough. Rim would not leave the hub though, so had a shop knock it off. Well, a huge chunk of the rear inner fender is gone now..... basically everything the upper strut attached to is literally...... gone. Never seen anything like that happen before.


Anyhow, the trans (4eat) and engine (ej22) are still strong (just had fresh oil change) and car was driven daily, all 4 tires (steel rim) are great with maybe 90% tread left. Have new rear rotors and pads (uninstalled still in boxes), timing belt was done roughly 20k miles ago, and all fluids rear/trans were done at that time; engine is quiet, no smoke, and just e-checked in April. Valve covers were new 20k miles ago but are leaky as I didn't use rtv on them; 190k with exterior rust, fair interior (scratches everywhere inside/out) and I think I did the fuel pump about 10k miles ago. I'll let the whole thing go to a forum member (will need trailered unless you live close) if you promise to give the engine/trans a good home for $450. Don't have the heart to junk it given the engine is desirable for retrofits.

#2 Bushwick


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Posted 18 May 2017 - 09:35 AM

Oh yeah, the front tie rods were replaced roughly 12k miles ago and battery was new in December 2016. As far as I'm aware, it hasn't exhibited torque bind. The physical failure at this time is popped the spot welds for upper rear strut mount driver's side. The rear crossmember was replaced when I got the car (the donor car apparently had a new one) and should still be good. AC works but belt was squeaking last time I ran it.


PM me.

Edited by Bushwick, 18 May 2017 - 09:38 AM.

#3 Bushwick


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Posted 18 May 2017 - 12:34 PM

For what it's worth, engine temp is always in the middle ;) and the car can be run/tested (locally, like around the block kinda deal) to verify. Plugs, wires, air and fuel filters were all done around 15k miles ago. I also went through ALL the lifters around that time and either hand flushed or replaced collapsed ones, and they are still quiet. I also have a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed (copper line with full rubber vacuum line sleeve) so oil pressure can be verified from a cold or hot start. Think it idles in-gear around 10 psi fully hot, and 75-80 cold (haven't been paying attention lately). When the timing belt was off, I cleaned with lye and inspected the oil pump, and resealed with anaerobic.


Really pissed it broke the strut mount and fender  :mad: as I don't want to get rid of it.

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