Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

ea82 oil pan removal


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:00 PM

dumb question. 

 

I got all the bolts out of the oil pan and now it's loose but I can't get it to come down off the engine. Acts like it's hung up on something inside.  I don't want to damage the intake tube.

 

I looked in the chilton's manual but there's no information beyond removing the bolts.

 

I did some searching here, but the only problem mentioned is in regard to getting the bolts off.

 

Is there a trick to maneuvering the pan off the engine so it won't damage the intake tube ?



#2 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 10,309 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 19 May 2017 - 07:39 PM

If the engine is in the car still you will have to remove the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts and pitch stopper, and lift the engine about 1-2 inches off the crossmember.



#3 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:02 PM

I got the pan to drop down a fair amount, it was hung up against the motor mounts. But now it's the intake tube that won't clear the internal panel inside the pan.  No matter how I manipulate it, I can't get the nozzle of the tube to go through the slot opening.

 

Unfortunately, I did not know the engine had to be lifted to take the pan off.  The chilton manual indicates nothing about having to lift the engine and I have no tools now to lift the engine.

 

Can the intake tube be removed ?


Edited by Dee2, 19 May 2017 - 09:04 PM.


#4 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 19 May 2017 - 10:13 PM

Update:
 
Good news:
I got the pan off the engine.  The trick is to turn the pan 180 degrees so the drain plug is facing the drivers side instead of the passengers side.  Lifting the engine was not required, (yet - we'll see how replacement goes).

 

Attached File  intake_clearance_problem.JPG   25.24K   15 downloads

 

Bad news:

 

Old gasket is baked on like epoxy and requires some serious time for cleaning.  Any tips for removing this old stuff ?

 

Attached File  old_gasket_condition.JPG   38.55K   19 downloads



#5 GeneralDisorder

GeneralDisorder

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 21,290 posts
  • Portland

Posted 20 May 2017 - 12:27 PM

Scraper and a zip wheel. Sandpaper if you don have that. An hour in the parts washer softens that junk nicely then it just falls off.

GD

#6 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 20 May 2017 - 10:59 PM

thanks

 

All cleaned up and reassembled.  New oil, filter and gasket.

 

Inside of oil pan was surprisingly clean.  I expected a real sludge pile but really there was almost nothing.



#7 Len Dawg

Len Dawg

    New User

  • Members
  • 211 posts
  • Portland,Oregon

Posted 21 May 2017 - 01:49 PM

I always forget about that stupid hole! Lol! I've changed mine a couple times so far when I do a reseal job.. recheck your bolts after some driving too.. they seem to have a way of loosening up.. at least mine did. Plus I changed the PCV positive crankcase valve.. :)

#8 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 21 May 2017 - 02:57 PM

I always forget about that stupid hole! Lol! I've changed mine a couple times so far when I do a reseal job.. recheck your bolts after some driving too.. they seem to have a way of loosening up.. at least mine did. Plus I changed the PCV positive crankcase valve.. :)

 

Good tip on the PCV, I'll check mine. I'll give the bolts a check in a couple of months if I still have the car. 

 

I've got some more things to do, starting with getting rid of an engine clicking/clatter.  I was hoping the oil change/filter would help but no such luck.  I did the pump reseal about 3 years ago, oil pressure is normal and the engine has been running great.  This is very new and it looks like it may be serious.

 

I'm not looking forward to the prospect of having to pull the engine.



#9 wagons

wagons

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58 posts
  • prescott az

Posted 21 May 2017 - 07:38 PM

Engine is a simple removal. I have never done it and since my car came with bad heads i decided i would pull it. Takes about 2.5 hours the first time. That means labeling everything and being uber care cautious. I hope you don't have the lifter tick of death

#10 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 21 May 2017 - 09:29 PM

Engine is a simple removal. I have never done it and since my car came with bad heads i decided i would pull it. Takes about 2.5 hours the first time. That means labeling everything and being uber care cautious. I hope you don't have the lifter tick of death

Yeah that's my concern.  Even if i were to get the engine out, I'm not sure what I need to do to fix the problem.



#11 Nickoli

Nickoli

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 27 posts
  • Paonia, Colorado

Posted 21 May 2017 - 10:25 PM

I solved my tick of death by resealing the oil pump. Simple job, and easy to do some other preventative seals/timing belts at the same time.

Now I only get noise for like 3 seconds on cold start before some oil makes it's way around the engine. Before the oil pump reseal, it was almost always ticking.

#12 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 21 May 2017 - 10:39 PM

This is pretty loud, I'm afraid it's more than a tick.

 

Other than the sound level though, I'm not sure how to verify the difference


Edited by Dee2, 21 May 2017 - 10:49 PM.


#13 wagons

wagons

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58 posts
  • prescott az

Posted 22 May 2017 - 07:52 AM

Is the sound hollow like hitting two PVC pipes together fast ( this would be bearings and rods hitting the engine block) or is it solid like a hammer striking concrete really fast?(this noise would be valvetrain related)? I'll try to get a video of my impreza up, it has a good rod knock to let you hear the sound of hollow knock

#14 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 22 May 2017 - 01:42 PM

It sounds like this, which I think is a valve train knock.  Probably the hydraulic lash adjusters (lifters).

 

Attached File  noise.mpg   818K   21 downloads
 
YouTube video owners posting similar noises cite the problem as "lifters".  Does anybody recognize this noise ?  I am hoping to confirm the source of the problem before attempting any repairs.
 
The alternative is a failing oil pump, but there seems to be good pressure, so I am thinking this is not the likely source of the problem.
 
Any comments or thoughts are welcomed.

Edited by Dee2, 24 May 2017 - 11:39 AM.


#15 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 24 May 2017 - 11:52 AM

updated post



#16 DaveT

DaveT

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 3,372 posts
  • Colchester

Posted 24 May 2017 - 12:38 PM

If it is lifter tick, it can be loud, but it's a thin sound. All treble, no bass. Lifter tick often is caused by the seals on th oil pump leaking air in. They are replaceable. Oil pumps are no longer available, except for used ones, which likely would need a reseal.

#17 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 24 May 2017 - 12:43 PM

The attached video hopefully reveals the sound.  I don't hear any bass.

 

I did replace the oil pump seals about 3 years ago.  I suppose it's possible it failed (?)



#18 wagons

wagons

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58 posts
  • prescott az

Posted 25 May 2017 - 05:15 PM

I can't get the sound clip to play. The good news is lifters are available still. I'd pull the heads, get them cleaned milled and a valve job if necessary and new lifters. All the work including lifters ($10 a piece at rock auto) should be $300 max

#19 Dee2

Dee2

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • 577 posts
  • US

Posted 25 May 2017 - 08:48 PM

I can't get the sound clip to play.

 

It may be necessary to tell your browser what to do with .mpg files.  

 

 

Some updates. 

 

I tried an engine oil flush and followed with a 3:1 oil/ATF refill and a new filter.  I thought if this made an improvement then I would know it's the lifters and not the oil pump.

 

The noise has been substantially reduced and is no longer a loud, steady tap, tap, tapping.  Now, it is a much quieter, random pattern tapping. 

 

Best I can determine, it is coming from the passenger side.  I tried to use the old steel rod to the ear, but it didn't help much. I believe the noise is from the lifters near the front of the engine.

 

If the noise doesn't go away completely in a couple of days, I think I will just try to pull the cam off and replace the lifters since it should be easy access on that side.


Edited by Dee2, 25 May 2017 - 09:03 PM.


#20 DaveT

DaveT

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 3,372 posts
  • Colchester

Posted 25 May 2017 - 10:11 PM

The recording isn't high fidelity, but it does sound like lifter tick, at least rythm wise.  Rod knock has a lower frequency component to the sound.  If it is mostly constant. it may be 1 stick lifter.  When it's the oil pump seals, it tends to vary more.  As in come and go, and  more or fewer lifters ticking.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users