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ea82 oil pan removal


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Dee2

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:00 PM

dumb question. 

 

I got all the bolts out of the oil pan and now it's loose but I can't get it to come down off the engine. Acts like it's hung up on something inside.  I don't want to damage the intake tube.

 

I looked in the chilton's manual but there's no information beyond removing the bolts.

 

I did some searching here, but the only problem mentioned is in regard to getting the bolts off.

 

Is there a trick to maneuvering the pan off the engine so it won't damage the intake tube ?



#2 Gloyale

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 07:39 PM

If the engine is in the car still you will have to remove the exhaust, unbolt the motor mounts and pitch stopper, and lift the engine about 1-2 inches off the crossmember.



#3 Dee2

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:02 PM

I got the pan to drop down a fair amount, it was hung up against the motor mounts. But now it's the intake tube that won't clear the internal panel inside the pan.  No matter how I manipulate it, I can't get the nozzle of the tube to go through the slot opening.

 

Unfortunately, I did not know the engine had to be lifted to take the pan off.  The chilton manual indicates nothing about having to lift the engine and I have no tools now to lift the engine.

 

Can the intake tube be removed ?


Edited by Dee2, 19 May 2017 - 09:04 PM.


#4 Dee2

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 10:13 PM

Update:
 
Good news:
I got the pan off the engine.  The trick is to turn the pan 180 degrees so the drain plug is facing the drivers side instead of the passengers side.  Lifting the engine was not required, (yet - we'll see how replacement goes).

 

Attached File  intake_clearance_problem.JPG   25.24K   9 downloads

 

Bad news:

 

Old gasket is baked on like epoxy and requires some serious time for cleaning.  Any tips for removing this old stuff ?

 

Attached File  old_gasket_condition.JPG   38.55K   13 downloads



#5 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 12:27 PM

Scraper and a zip wheel. Sandpaper if you don have that. An hour in the parts washer softens that junk nicely then it just falls off.

GD

#6 Dee2

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 10:59 PM

thanks

 

All cleaned up and reassembled.  New oil, filter and gasket.

 

Inside of oil pan was surprisingly clean.  I expected a real sludge pile but really there was almost nothing.



#7 Len Dawg

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 01:49 PM

I always forget about that stupid hole! Lol! I've changed mine a couple times so far when I do a reseal job.. recheck your bolts after some driving too.. they seem to have a way of loosening up.. at least mine did. Plus I changed the PCV positive crankcase valve.. :)

#8 Dee2

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 02:57 PM

I always forget about that stupid hole! Lol! I've changed mine a couple times so far when I do a reseal job.. recheck your bolts after some driving too.. they seem to have a way of loosening up.. at least mine did. Plus I changed the PCV positive crankcase valve.. :)

 

Good tip on the PCV, I'll check mine. I'll give the bolts a check in a couple of months if I still have the car. 

 

I've got some more things to do, starting with getting rid of an engine clicking/clatter.  I was hoping the oil change/filter would help but no such luck.  I did the pump reseal about 3 years ago, oil pressure is normal and the engine has been running great.  This is very new and it looks like it may be serious.

 

I'm not looking forward to the prospect of having to pull the engine.



#9 wagons

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 07:38 PM

Engine is a simple removal. I have never done it and since my car came with bad heads i decided i would pull it. Takes about 2.5 hours the first time. That means labeling everything and being uber care cautious. I hope you don't have the lifter tick of death

#10 Dee2

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 09:29 PM

Engine is a simple removal. I have never done it and since my car came with bad heads i decided i would pull it. Takes about 2.5 hours the first time. That means labeling everything and being uber care cautious. I hope you don't have the lifter tick of death

Yeah that's my concern.  Even if i were to get the engine out, I'm not sure what I need to do to fix the problem.



#11 Nickoli

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 10:25 PM

I solved my tick of death by resealing the oil pump. Simple job, and easy to do some other preventative seals/timing belts at the same time.

Now I only get noise for like 3 seconds on cold start before some oil makes it's way around the engine. Before the oil pump reseal, it was almost always ticking.

#12 Dee2

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 10:39 PM

This is pretty loud, I'm afraid it's more than a tick.

 

Other than the sound level though, I'm not sure how to verify the difference


Edited by Dee2, 21 May 2017 - 10:49 PM.


#13 wagons

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Posted Yesterday, 07:52 AM

Is the sound hollow like hitting two PVC pipes together fast ( this would be bearings and rods hitting the engine block) or is it solid like a hammer striking concrete really fast?(this noise would be valvetrain related)? I'll try to get a video of my impreza up, it has a good rod knock to let you hear the sound of hollow knock

#14 Dee2

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Posted Yesterday, 01:42 PM

It sounds like this , which apparently is a valve train knock

 

Attached File  noise.mpg   818K   1 downloads

Edited by Dee2, Yesterday, 05:48 PM.





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