1 Lucky Texan Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 I worried about the waterpump but, many folks feel you can leave the original on the first belt change so, every alternate belt service ???? you DO NOT want to skip the idlers though - especially that toothed idler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Yeah, I have no problem doing any and all service that makes sense while I am replacing the T-belt, so is it good to let things go 100k miles between T-belts, or replace every 60k as I see in my manual? I don't know that I will have this car beyond 300k miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 another option, which I may employ on my wrx, would be to accelerate the schedule for the NEXT TB service. so, I may do my next service earlier and swap in a new WP at that time. The TB kit I got had GMB idlers and I have some concern they may not be as high quality as OEM. I also did not change my seals, I was concerned I had a greater chance of causing a problem since I have no experience with that work and I saw no 'weeping' of sign of a problem. I totally get why people have everything done, and I probably would too if I were paying for someone else's labor. But if I have to get in there again because of a weeping coolant leak or oil drip, I will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 another option, which I may employ on my wrx, would be to accelerate the schedule for the NEXT TB service. so, I may do my next service earlier and swap in a new WP at that time. The TB kit I got had GMB idlers and I have some concern they may not be as high quality as OEM. I also did not change my seals, I was concerned I had a greater chance of causing a problem since I have no experience with that work and I saw no 'weeping' of sign of a problem. I totally get why people have everything done, and I probably would too if I were paying for someone else's labor. But if I have to get in there again because of a weeping coolant leak or oil drip, I will. I hear ya, in my case, it's no big deal, and I get peace of mind knowing it's done. Woo Hoo!! Got my parts in a day early! Gotta love Amazon! Got the T-belt Kit, and now I can get started! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Ok, is THIS normal wear for a T-belt that has been on there about 93K or so? Looking at it, I wonder how it ran at all! Or maybe it never did get changed? I am sooooo lucky it didn't decide to let go on I-205 N last Friday with all the Memorial Day week-end traffic! https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipMc8O0EP7XQ_iicmBvx2bFJF9rGyKdreG0oB3aN https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOZT6e4pGkJq1WjZxRZINXR6zS4yWQQm6tWKMuO https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOjMZeu2XaEotCv27AR8y7tIXlD-HL9YoQnHpbZ https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipNM1v_aqiLxQ88seCHQY_tKyRQGgbHC-PjeDSOP https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipN3hKUNbaResU9IwYB7heqColhW566A3CfVbEQ9 https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOWj8d90C1IymvHwGD_3VwE_9gt7QFIwzS1gq93 Edited June 1, 2017 by FlyB0y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) EJ water pump failure is rare. If they fail they'll just leak. It's common to replace them at 200k with the 105k change interval timing belt as 200k is a lot of miles on one consumable, cheap part with almost no labor (if timed with a timing belt) but in reality it's not like they fail very much...dare I say even at 200,000+ miles...? It wouldn't bother me if someone didn't want to replace it until the next tbelt at 260,00 miles rather than 200k (for 60k replacement belts like the 1998). Unlikely to fail and if it does - it leaks and no harm done just an annoyance and additional expense/time. I'm not a mechanic so I don't have that volume, but in my circles I've actually never seen a leaking or failed EJ water pump yet. Edited June 1, 2017 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Ok, is THIS normal wear for a T-belt that has been on there about 93K or so? Looking at it, I wonder how it ran at all! Or maybe it never did get changed? I am sooooo lucky it didn't decide to let go on I-205 N last Friday with all the Memorial Day week-end traffic! https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipMc8O0EP7XQ_iicmBvx2bFJF9rGyKdreG0oB3aN https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOZT6e4pGkJq1WjZxRZINXR6zS4yWQQm6tWKMuO https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOjMZeu2XaEotCv27AR8y7tIXlD-HL9YoQnHpbZ https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipNM1v_aqiLxQ88seCHQY_tKyRQGgbHC-PjeDSOP https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipN3hKUNbaResU9IwYB7heqColhW566A3CfVbEQ9 https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMqZgn-k2PjxGGkxmfCn2aZRVEWSI4lJZmZmZk-/photo/AF1QipOWj8d90C1IymvHwGD_3VwE_9gt7QFIwzS1gq93 pics not working for me could be, the previous belt was poor quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 EJ water pump failure is rare. If they fail they'll just leak. It's common to replace them at 200k with the 105k change interval timing belt as 200k is a lot of miles on one consumable, cheap part with almost no labor (if timed with a timing belt) but in reality it's not like they fail very much...dare I say even at 200,000+ miles...? It wouldn't bother me if someone didn't want to replace it until the next tbelt at 260,00 miles rather than 200k (for 60k replacement belts like the 1998). Unlikely to fail and if it does - it leaks and no harm done just an annoyance and additional expense/time. I'm not a mechanic so I don't have that volume, but in my circles I've actually never seen a leaking or failed EJ water pump yet. Good to know! Since I have everything apart, I think I will replace it this time around just so I know it's not going to have to be messed with again until another 60k miles. Anyone else having trouble seeing the pics I linked? I will try again on the pics, I am using google to host them, needless to say, I have NEVER seen a belt of any kind that was so weather-checked, and when I opened the cover, sheared teeth from the belt spilled out! I would estimate 30%+ of the teeth sheared from the old belt! I just hope nothing was damaged as this is a '98, so it is an interference engine. Given the extremely poor shape of the belt, I am hoping that it gave way before a valve was bent. I guess worst case, I will just get an education on fixing that sort of problem, it appears I might have a head gasket leak (not just the cover, but the actual head) on the passenger side, it also needs a new boot/CV joint on that side, I see they still have the exhaust close to to the passenger side CV, anyone recommend a good aftermarket CV axle? Or would you recommend I bite the bullet for a factory one? No idea how many miles that boot has been open, so I am going to assume the joint is on it's way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 the inner joints are somewhat protected from the environment. If the internal volume is still wet with lube, you should consider cleaning, regreasing and rebooting the axle if it is OEM (green 'cup') next best option, buy a used Subaru axle (car-part.com) , reboot inner joint. next , probably a quality new axle like FEQ, or maybe EMPI, Raxles, DTA, etc. (these are not risk-free options) worst risk is typical rebuilts from a parts store, horrible reputations. avoid except in dire emergency. new, of course, would be ideal - just $$$$ !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Hmmm how hard is it to re-boot an axle? Never tried that, seems it should be a simple thing, pretty sure it is a factory axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Mmmm, yeah... if you have a handful of timing belt teeth, FIRST thing to to is install the new belt temporarily to see if you have any bent valves. You'll just want to get everything back in time, don't force anything. Get the pistons off top dead center to move the cams into position. Then do a compression check before trying to start it. Edited June 1, 2017 by Subaru Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Hmmm how hard is it to re-boot an axle? Never tried that, seems it should be a simple thing, pretty sure it is a factory axle.a little messy, fairly easy. buy boot from Subaru, or, I like the beck-arnley boot kits - used 2 so far. They come with grease pack, new snap ring and bands. maybe $17 or so from amazon. lots of people do this - search for a diy, and check youtube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Tbelt. Hang a belt and see where you're at or do a leak down test. Valves bent - install a set of used heads. They're easily done in the car, look at the headbolts they're external, visible and easy. Axle - reboot and never but aftermarket axles no matter what anyone says even if you think they're good and qualified. If you need an axle buy a used OEM one. OEM axles are the only that routinely last the life of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks all, since the motor has been turned over multiple times when I was trying to figure it out, I am gonna guess if there are bent valves, it's already been done, what is the best way to now get everything lined up? I'm guessing, TDC for cyl 1, and rotate the crank 90 DEG clockwise as said here? (Looks like an earlier model of EJ22 but maybe timing marks are the same?) http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Timing%20Belt.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Oh, and does the Axle need to be removed to re-boot the CV? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) do a search but, you do not want any pistons at TDC - the crank is put at 1/2 travel for each jug by using the dashed line/groove on the tab at the BACK of the crank sprocket - NOT any arrow/triangle/dot on the front of the sprocket. Then you can safely rotate the cams. In timing position, one will likely try to snap off of the top of the lobes - normal and sometimes frustrating. I have seen a youtube video of a guy that rebooted his axle on the car so - do-able I guess. Edited June 1, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 I have been rotating the crank 2 revolutions now, and I cannot see any distinct marks at the back of any kind. Anyone have a photo or video of what the mark looks like? I don't need a mirror to see it in there do I? AT trans if that makes any difference. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 no, the rear of the crankshaft sprocket might look similar to this; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Ahh ok, I was thinking that this can be 180 DEG off? Maybe I am wrong, I have found these marks just fine, thanks for the pic! So if I have all three marks aligned there isn't a possibility of it still being off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 right - you can also search for the tooth count for your engine to triple check. that's what I did, after I pulled the pin on the tensioner, but before I started my wrx ,after a belt service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Kewl, I just want to make sure as I have no idea where there crankshaft is in relation to the cams, I don't want to bend a valve unintentionally! I think I have found a tooth count, but it is an earlier generation of motor: http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Timing%20Belt.htm Edited June 1, 2017 by FlyB0y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) I have no idea where there crankshaft is in relation to the cams,just to be clear here, what do you mean? very roughly - did you; 1. adjust the crankshaft to a point where the dash imprinted on the tab at the rear of the sprocket is near 12 o'conck - aligned with the dash on that 'boss' that holds the crank position sensor. 2. align the 2 cam sprocket marks with their notches or lines on the rear plastic covers. 3. Install belt 4. pull pin on tensioner 5. rotate crank sprocket 2 full turns til it's timing mark is aligned at the 12 o'clock position 6. count teeth between timing alignment marks on the pulleys the crank will rotate twice per each single cam rotation. that website seems legit, you can do a google image search for more diagrams/pics if you want. Edited June 1, 2017 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Anyone have a good link/pic of the right side cam seal? I think I have it, on the back side of the passenger side, looks like a cap? Just hate to take something off if I don't already have the gasket. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyB0y Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 I have the front driver's side SOHC cam seal, replaced it last night, and it came in a set of 2 (one of each, o-ring and seal) just want to make sure these are the seals I need for the same one on the rear of the passenger's side rear before I remove it. It looks like the rear oil leak I have might just be the cam seal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 Both cam seals are on the front of engine behind timing belt and cam sprockets both sides. Orings are front drivers side and rear passengers side. The cam seal is not under that rear passenegers side cam cap - just the oring. On passengers side the seal is on the front and oring on the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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