GeneralDisorder Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Yes NTN bearing is the manufacturer in Japan. They make the tensioners for Subaru. They make other things like all Subaru's axles, etc. It's the only one that can be trusted unfortunately. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 That is the factory NTN unit, yes. No on NAPA or AutoZone. All junk. Get NTN tensioner, Aisin water pump, and Mitsuboshi timing belt. The idler aren't usually a problem but we stick to Koyo and NSK. GD I called Subaru today to see about ordering these specific brands. They had no clue what I was talking about. NTN, Mitsuboshi, Aisin, Koyo, NSK he said would all be after market parts unless they are manufactured by these companies for Subaru, in which case he would need Subaru part numbers. Where do you normally purchase these parts from? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 The OE parts are manufactured by those companies for Subaru. When you order the correct parts, giving them your VIN, or the part numbers, if you wish to find the diagrams and look them up un your own, the parts you get will be made by the manufacturers names that GD listed. If they had no clue, then.. they really have no clue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Any shop or parts store that has an account with Worldpac or IMC. Both are national wholesalers and both carry these brands. The dealer parts guy would know nothing of these brands since they use their own part numbering system, in their own boxes, and mark everything up 300%. The techs in the service department would know, but the parts guy deals in isle after isle of plain white boxes with part numbers labels. He don't know what's in em. GD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 The OE parts are manufactured by those companies for Subaru. When you order the correct parts, giving them your VIN, or the part numbers, if you wish to find the diagrams and look them up un your own, the parts you get will be made by the manufacturers names that GD listed. If they had no clue, then.. they really have no clue! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Any shop or parts store that has an account with Worldpac or IMC. Both are national wholesalers and both carry these brands. The dealer parts guy would know nothing of these brands since they use their own part numbering system, in their own boxes, and mark everything up 300%. The techs in the service department would know, but the parts guy deals in isle after isle of plain white boxes with part numbers labels. He don't know what's in em. GD Thank you GD, this info should help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Just an FYI. Napa can get NTN stuff. It's not what most of them would carry or come up first in their list, but they can get it. At least where I live. A Napa down by the largest dealer in my area, that is ALL they carry for Subaru is basically OEM.. NTN bearings, tensioners ect.. Asin water pumps. They don't carry anything else other than that, and they won't even order it for you.. Last time I bought a part there it was a water pump because I needed one and they had it. Told me due to come backs on the cheaper stuff breaking, they don't deal with anything else. Obviously brake pads and stuff they will sell the cheaper stuff, even CV axles I'm sure but I'm not sure New OEM are even available outside of Subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Just an FYI. Napa can get NTN stuff. It's not what most of them would carry or come up first in their list, but they can get it. At least where I live. A Napa down by the largest dealer in my area, that is ALL they carry for Subaru is basically OEM.. NTN bearings, tensioners ect.. Asin water pumps. They don't carry anything else other than that, and they won't even order it for you.. Last time I bought a part there it was a water pump because I needed one and they had it. Told me due to come backs on the cheaper stuff breaking, they don't deal with anything else. Obviously brake pads and stuff they will sell the cheaper stuff, even CV axles I'm sure but I'm not sure New OEM are even available outside of Subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 NTN is the manufacturer. They make the part for Subaru. Aisin makes the pumps for Subaru... I would replace the pulleys too. if I could feel them by hand and tell they're full of grease that's fine but I can't tell over the Internet and hesitate with someone unfamiliar with Subarus saying "it feels good". But that's the only way they fail - they get low on grease and quickly heat up and seize. The lower toothed pulley is by far the most common to fail, and the belt can't slide over it , since it's toothed and inside the belt, like it does when the smooth idlers seize, it'll slide over those for awhile before it breaks - it's immediate bent valves, I'd at least replace that one. Last timing belt I did a couple weeks ago was running perfectly and the belt was sliding over a seized pulley when I pulled it. Not sure how it would come up if you don't get an aftermarket tensioner but just in case Don't use theaftermarket bolts they come with either. It's tempting to use the shiney new metal - don't do it. Subaru water pump failure is rare and catastrophic failure on an average engine (never sat for years with water in it) is almost unheard of. So if money is tight you could skip that. But best to do it all right now and aim for 100,000k reliability, that should save you some money over the long haul. If you buy the correct year EJ22 it's plug and play into the EJ25. No wiring or computer changes. It just bolts in and plugs in like it's an EJ25. did you check www.car-part.com for any EJ22s? Now that you know your EJ25 is good you could potentially sell it for the cost of buying an EJ22. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Just an FYI. Napa can get NTN stuff. It's not what most of them would carry or come up first in their list, but they can get it. At least where I live. A Napa down by the largest dealer in my area, that is ALL they carry for Subaru is basically OEM.. NTN bearings, tensioners ect.. Asin water pumps. They don't carry anything else other than that, and they won't even order it for you.. Last time I bought a part there it was a water pump because I needed one and they had it. Told me due to come backs on the cheaper stuff breaking, they don't deal with anything else. Obviously brake pads and stuff they will sell the cheaper stuff, even CV axles I'm sure but I'm not sure New OEM are even available outside of Subaru I called NAPA for price quotes before I knew to ask for specific brands. So far the best prices I have found are from Amazon. Thank you for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 NTN is the manufacturer. They make the part for Subaru. Aisin makes the pumps for Subaru... I would replace the pulleys too. if I could feel them by hand and tell they're full of grease that's fine but I can't tell over the Internet and hesitate with someone unfamiliar with Subarus saying "it feels good". But that's the only way they fail - they get low on grease and quickly heat up and seize. The lower toothed pulley is by far the most common to fail, and the belt can't slide over it , since it's toothed and inside the belt, like it does when the smooth idlers seize, it'll slide over those for awhile before it breaks - it's immediate bent valves, I'd at least replace that one. Last timing belt I did a couple weeks ago was running perfectly and the belt was sliding over a seized pulley when I pulled it. Not sure how it would come up if you don't get an aftermarket tensioner but just in case Don't use theaftermarket bolts they come with either. It's tempting to use the shiney new metal - don't do it. Subaru water pump failure is rare and catastrophic failure on an average engine (never sat for years with water in it) is almost unheard of. So if money is tight you could skip that. But best to do it all right now and aim for 100,000k reliability, that should save you some money over the long haul. If you buy the correct year EJ22 it's plug and play into the EJ25. No wiring or computer changes. It just bolts in and plugs in like it's an EJ25. did you check www.car-part.com for any EJ22s? Now that you know your EJ25 is good you could potentially sell it for the cost of buying an EJ22. When you say you would replace "The Pulley's" are you referring to the idler's? I was planing on replacing the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, two smooth idler's, the toothed idler, the water pump and both fan belts. I was not planning on replacing the four cam pulley's unless they look worn or damaged. Input on those four pulley's would be appreciated but I felt they would be ok if they looked good. I have no clue how many miles are on the parts, I want everything that should be replace to prevent a failure for the long term replaced. If that means letting it sit a while till I can afford to do it right, then I let it sit. I do not need it right away. Aside from the knocking tensioner I think the engine will sound fine after the timing components are replaced. Nice to know the EJ22 is plug & play, I would go with one if this engine fails. I think the engine and everything mechanical has been well maintained on the car. The lady said it started knocking and she just decided to get a new car. She had just had this one serviced and new tires put on when the knock developed. She was told it was a rod bearing and that the repairs would be be more than the car was worth. Right now I am looking at around $250 to replace all the parts I listed. I will also add a tow package, another $120. And I would like to find a nice steel roof basket cargo carrier to mount to the roof rack. I would like to replace the carpet, looks like OEM is the only thing available for carpet. Not sure I want to spend that much. There is a crack in the windshield and I will be replacing that also. Thank you for your input, I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 (edited) Man, it was a hassle to add images to the gallery and figure out how to get them here. Hoping this works. I could not load several of the images of the car I took, it kept telling me they were forbidden, they were within the size limits, no clue why I was getting a forbidden message. But, here are a few pics of the car since I got it cleaned up. It was a mess inside when I started. The plastics were literally brown with dirt from the farm. Edited June 23, 2017 by My64bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 I have had the battery disconnected for the last three weeks or so on my 1998 Forester. Last night I spent the night cleaning the garage so I could put it inside out of the sun. When I hooked the battery back up my marker lights and dome lights all started flashing, it's not the flashers. Is this some sort of safe mode the car is in? I can not get it to stop. I have one of the cooling fans out right now, but it was not doing this before I disconnected the battery. It starts up and runs just fine and I pulled it inside. Even with the ignition off and the key out it keeps flashing? I had to disconnect the battery again to make it stop. What would cause this? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 lock-unlock with the fob a coupla times. or, cycle the ignition on/off 3 times quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 lock-unlock with the fob a coupla times. or, cycle the ignition on/off 3 times quickly I'll try cycling the ignition, I do not have remotes for the car. Do you know if there is a way to tell if the car was made with keyless entry? Thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 lock-unlock with the fob a coupla times. or, cycle the ignition on/off 3 times quickly Cycling the ignition switch does not stop it. It even continues to flash after shutting the car off and removing the key? Any other ideas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Any shop or parts store that has an account with Worldpac or IMC. Both are national wholesalers and both carry these brands. The dealer parts guy would know nothing of these brands since they use their own part numbering system, in their own boxes, and mark everything up 300%. The techs in the service department would know, but the parts guy deals in isle after isle of plain white boxes with part numbers labels. He don't know what's in em. GD Hey GD, any chance you could give some advice on the current problem? (I have had the battery disconnected for the last three weeks or so on my 1998 Forester. Last night I spent the night cleaning the garage so I could put it inside out of the sun. When I hooked the battery back up my marker lights and dome lights all started flashing, it's not the flashers. Is this some sort of safe mode the car is in? I can not get it to stop. I have one of the cooling fans out right now, but it was not doing this before I disconnected the battery. It starts up and runs just fine and I pulled it inside. Even with the ignition off and the key out it keeps flashing? I had to disconnect the battery again to make it stop. What would cause this?) It is parked in the driveway right now, engine off with the key out of the ignition and it will flash 30 times, stop for 10 seconds, flash for 30 seconds, stop for 10 sends, just keeps repeating the process. Thank you. Edited August 4, 2017 by My64bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My64bit Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 I found the fix online finally, reset button under the dash by the hood release. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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